Jump to content

Where can I get such a crystal?


Recommended Posts

I'm working on a 7734 chrono and the crystal has some very deep scratches. Polishing doesn't really work so I would like to replace it. But I dont know where to look on the cousins webpage. The crystal wears a ring with a tachymetre scale on the inner diameter. The wall seems to be absolutly cylindric not conic. Outer diameter is aprox. 33.2 mm, inner is aprox. 31.3 mm, height 4 mm. Any ideas?

DB31EC7E-6221-4D2C-AB28-33B5E0DC1C9E.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm working on a 7734 chrono and the crystal has some very deep scratches. Polishing doesn't really work so I would like to replace it. But I dont know where to look on the cousins webpage. The crystal wears a ring with a tachymetre scale on the inner diameter. The wall seems to be absolutly cylindric not conic. Outer diameter is aprox. 33.2 mm, inner is aprox. 31.3 mm, height 4 mm. Any ideas?
DB31EC7E-6221-4D2C-AB28-33B5E0DC1C9E.thumb.jpeg.84279ce0af995b266b4556a9af1af6d2.jpeg

Ebay


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Inner diameter is slightly larger then 31.1. But i glued the inner ring with a small dap of crystal glue. Hasn't come of yet . This one i had was 33,3 but i used the 33,2 already. BTW it was a evertite . And it's 4 mm high on the spot. DSC09771.thumb.JPG.986983f468c0b79e297d203a0fa2b9f2.JPGDSC09770.thumb.JPG.9890172180161c7a2567a5d80c1da976.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Delgetti said:

Thank you. Evr tite looks very good, but it seems it's only available in the US?

I think I will try the ATCH as I have a cousins order anyway. If this one doesn't fit I will go for the evr tite.

If you want i can send you mine. Think a 33,3 could work? I have a the envelope for the 33,2 but it has fallen out. Maybe it's here somewhere . Or in an other envelope. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For these old chronos with a printed ring as tension ring and no parts available, I often use a "generic" (quotes because randomly enough a few Omega crystals have fit the bill in the past) armored crystal which I modify. As luck would have it the usual tension ring for a given outside diameter is often smaller than the printed ring. I make a friction chuck out of plastic in the lathe that will just allow the crystal to snap into, backwards, then turn the inside to fit the original ring. Takes about 15 mins start to finish if you are accustomed to latge work.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

For these old chronos with a printed ring as tension ring and no parts available, I often use a "generic" (quotes because randomly enough a few Omega crystals have fit the bill in the past) armored crystal which I modify. As luck would have it the usual tension ring for a given outside diameter is often smaller than the printed ring. I make a friction chuck out of plastic in the lathe that will just allow the crystal to snap into, backwards, then turn the inside to fit the original ring. Takes about 15 mins start to finish if you are accustomed to latge work.

Interesting. Can you show us how you do that? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, rogart63 said:

Interesting. Can you show us how you do that? 

I usually have some PVC or Delrin barstock around, which is useful for many things including oddball supports and pushers for case work, making movement holders etc. I'll chuck up a scrap of suitable size and bore out a recess to accept the crystal. You have to creep up on the final diameter so the crystal fits in snugly but not too tight (and not too loose!). There's always a hole in the center to allow pushing the crystal out when finished. Once the crystal is in it will be running very true as you leave the plastic in after turning the recess- this means you can do accurate work even with a wonky chuck. Now, with a very sharp tool, bore the crystal to just fit the ring.

The pics show a tension ring crystal I had lying around, I hope they're illustrative enough.

 

IMG_0403 (Large).JPG

IMG_0404 (Large).JPG

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!
    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
    • So I just wanted to say "thank you" again.  The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right. I had meant to add that now that I see how it goes in, I totally see how it came out in the first place, and that whomever cloned the original movement didn't pay much attention to the fine details around the setting or how it interfaces with the balance cock or the "rings" on the regulator and/or stud carrier arms.
    • Well I’ve never seen the make before and cannot find any info, I haven’t got it just yet it’s been left to me among a 1970’s sea master and a mid size yeoman. But if anyone has any information on this one please feel free to enlighten me, many thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...