in order to buy appropriate spares in my attempt to service an Omega 175.0083 (7750) I need some advice:
I've already been suggested to replace MS:
Barrel is Ok and I'm thinking of buying a new MS and moebius 8217 for barrel lubricating as I don't want to spend money on recommended Kluber 125 grease.
Should I consider instead buying a barrel complete (assuming Barrel complete (180.1) comes with MS installed) wich supposedly comes prelubricated ?
Attached image shows automatic device bridge with evident sign of wear from where, to my understanding, the problem orginated: a screw came off
I cant find original part.
ETA part is different from Omega in that the Omega is larger and partially covers hammer two function and the chronograph cam.
Beside that and since the watch has no crystal back case I think those parts are perfectly interchangeable.
Do I need to replace the bridge or are there alternative aproaches to this problem?
A new 7750 movement, cleaning and assembly again, why watch swing only 260 °?
I am servicing my first 7750 (thank you Mark for the YT videos and Lawson for the Disassembly/Assembly walk-through).
The movement is not new - let's say it has an obscure unknown history It appears to be a genuine swiss 7750, but with a lower grade finish (very low...)
When putting back the balance stones I noticed that there were two sizes (two pairs, because the cap stones fit the hole jewel settings). I put the smaller stone and hole-jewel on the mainplate and the larger ones on the balance cock. I tried to but the larger setting on the mainplate but it didn't fit quite right. I believe the springs are the same size - its just the stones that differ a bit (aprox 0.1mm)
So my question is: did any of you stumbled upon the same issue? Is it normal for a 7750 to have two different stone sizes?
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A soak in diesel fuel, naphta for day or two, ends the old story of heads popping off the screws. I remove balance cock pallets and soak the rest, give one dip in a fluid I can stand the odor of. Any cheap multipurpose oil would do. I use several solutions, detergent seperately and brush extesively.
Hello forum folks, I've been tinkering with watches for maybe 5 years now. I'm very much a beginner but I have been practicing on cheap watches and movements that it is ok to break. I've managed to make my own watch dial from a brass sheet, including brushing, rhodium plating, printing, and creating applied markers and numerals. I've also made a "smart" watch using epoxy-based putty for the case and my electronics knowledge. I have some basic skills in metal finishing including polishing and plating. So I've mostly worked on the non-movement aspects of watchmaking and am interested into learning about servicing movements. I live in the Milwaukee area and was thrilled to see MATC (local trade school) on lists of schools that teach watchmaking -- just to have that dashed when I contacted them and the class has been discontinued for lack of interest So for now, I have online and book resources to learn. I have a mostly cheap watch collection other than a Longines that I treasure. I have a few different old timex mechanicals I got off of ebay, including 2 from JerseyMo which I saw is on this forum. I have have way more hobbies than time so I'll probably be around off and on. Dan
First thing would be to remove the pinions. They are sometimes quite well rivetted, so this may involve turning away some of the rivet or being willing to sacrifice the wheel (it could easily be distorted beyond use in punching the pinion out). Then you need to compare the hole in the wheel you want to use to the diameter on the pinion that will be pressed and rivetted in. If too big it gets tricky, you'll need to sleeve/bush the hole very securely. I would open the hole further, then chamfer both sides, make the bush with an undersized hole, then fit it in. Swage the bush with a convex punch in the hole from both sides, then a flat punch that is larger than the bush. The idea is to deform metal into the two chamfers on the wheel. Finally flatten and clean up. Now open the hole to receive the pinion. If the hole is too small it's easy, just open it up and press/rivett the pinion in.