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    • By Calvin
      Hello guys..
      I wanna ask..
      How to adjust my eta valjoux 7750 movement to be faster..
      Cause it slow 2-3 minute a day..
      Do i just need to move this part to the (+) sign?? Thankyouu

    • By Giuseppe
      Hi,
      in order to buy appropriate spares in my attempt to service an Omega 175.0083 (7750)  I need some advice:
      1.
      I've already been suggested to replace MS:
      Barrel is Ok and I'm thinking of buying a new MS and moebius 8217 for barrel lubricating as I don't want to spend money on recommended Kluber 125 grease.
      Should I consider instead buying a barrel complete (assuming Barrel complete (180.1) comes with MS installed) wich supposedly comes prelubricated ?
      2.
      Attached image shows automatic device bridge with evident sign of wear from where, to my understanding, the problem orginated: a screw came off
      I cant find original part. 
      ETA part is different from Omega in that the Omega is larger and partially covers hammer two function and the chronograph cam.
      Beside that and since the watch has no crystal back case I think those parts are perfectly interchangeable.
      Do I need to replace the bridge or are there alternative aproaches to this problem?
      TIA
      Giuseppe


    • By perfectkyo
      A new 7750 movement, cleaning and assembly again, why watch swing only 260 °?
    • By matabog
      Hello!
      I am servicing my first 7750 (thank you Mark for the YT videos and Lawson for the Disassembly/Assembly walk-through).
      The movement is not new - let's say it has an obscure unknown history  It appears to be a genuine swiss 7750, but with a lower grade finish (very low...)
      When putting back the balance stones I noticed that there were two sizes (two pairs, because the cap stones fit the hole jewel settings). I put the smaller stone and hole-jewel on the mainplate and the larger ones on the balance cock. I tried to but the larger setting on the mainplate but it didn't fit quite right. I believe the springs are the same size - its just the stones that differ a bit (aprox 0.1mm) 
       
      So my question is: did any of you stumbled upon the same issue? Is it normal for a 7750 to have two different stone sizes?
      Thank you!
      Bogdan
    • By johnbiggs
      Hey, guys, I have a 7750 movement where the rotor screw snapped off. I opened it up and it appears the rest of the screw is still inside the rotor post. Is there anything I can do to screw it back out?
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    • Hello everybody. I lived in Texas 51 years before moving “up north” to Oklahoma last year. One of my passions is fixing things - working on the house, appliances, cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawnmowers, and anything else that needs fixing and I’ve been good at it except when it comes to watches - what a humbling experience. Googling “broken set lever screw 6497” led me down a trail that led to this forum.   For watches: I like just about everything regardless of cost. I have a 1969 Datejust that my grandfather bought new (my watch addiction started there when I was little), and a 1966 Datejust I recently picked up, an Omega AT, a few Seikos, a Vostok, a couple Citizens, an old Bulova, a few Timexes, and a wristwatch-from-pocketwatch conversion with a genuine 6498 movement. Like many of y’all I’m sure, I’ve bought and sold a ton of watches since 1985 and haven’t slowed down.   The embarrassing screw-breaking watch is a Panerai look-alike with an ST36 Chinese copy of a 6497. It’s cheap but I figured it was good to learn on. Water was getting in, and the set lever screw was stuck so I broke it trying to get the stem out. Broke the two stuck movement mounting tab screws also, probably due to the water. Got a new ST36 and broke the same dang set lever screw trying to replace the stem. Can’t blame the water this time. Had no idea a tiny screwdriver could deliver enough torque to break screws. The price of education... I need to enroll in a course and stop red-necking this stuff.   I have plenty ST36 parts if y’all need any -except screws....   Great to be here,   Bobo         Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro  
    • Hi William, Welcome to the forum. Have been to Elvis and Dolly parton show at Grand ole opry.  Carried out research work in the Atomic City.    Glad to have you here with us. Best wishes. Joe
    • To find out if the slot is in the right place, get a piece of wood wide enough to take the movement, use a 3/8th inch bolt and cut a slot in the end to take the suspention spring, drill a hole near the top of the wood and attach the bolt with a nut. hook the pendulum onto the suspention spring, attach the movement to the board where the crutch is at about the middle of the slot on the pendulum, if the movement is working? the clock should work, attach the hands and see if it is keeping time, which I doubt as I think the slot is way to low, anyway now you have this set up you can just move the movement UP or down till you find the right place for the slot. You do not need to cut the slot while trying to find the right place,  just drill a hole a 1/16th of an inch wider than the crutch, you may end up with a few holes however when about in the right place then cut the slot an 1/2 inch above and below the hole, you can fill to holes or just buy a new pendulum stick.
    • I have the Hormec hollow grind sharpener, and a roller sharpener for wedge shape, and a large diamond file. I hate the Hormec and hollow ground blades (like them for clocks and other stuff though, PB Swiss make my old Snap-On stuff look like toys). I sharpen regularly with the diamond file. Wedge shape, not too shallow. I recall Hamilton recommending 15 degrees, I do a little more. Been meaning to sell the Hormec but after loaning it out try-before-buy to several folks they lose interest after actually trying hollow ground. I know one watchmaker who uses mostly hollow ground, but has 3 or 4 sets and is always messing with them. It doesn't really matter as long as the screws (and nearby parts) survive unscathed. When doing final assembly of a new watch with flat polished screws, where each screw gets hand polished on tin, I use a nickel (german silver) blade, which needs dressing every 3 or 4 screws.
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