Jump to content

Recommended Posts

My treasured Seiko SKX007 finally stopped working. It didn't suffer any abuse, wasn't dropped or knocked about so I suspect the culprit to be gummy lube. The 21 jewel 7S26 movement can't be hand wound and since I didn't wear it often enough to keep it operating, it was a chore to set the day, date and time in addition to whirling it around for a couple of minutes each time I decided to wear it in my rotation. Sadly, as a result it has been on my wrist probably less than a dozen times over the last 10 years. The watch dates from the mid 1990's and I've had it serviced once about 2005 or so.

I'm in my seventies now but I have the correct tools, patience and enough remaining co-ordination to install a Seiko NH36 movement. I'm familiar with the correct procedure to effect this mod including exchanging the date wheel and cutting the new stem to properly fit the case. Rather than attempt to use the existing crown, I would purchase a new one with new seals already installed. My quandary is: do I want to do this or do I want to purchase a quartz model and leave this one as is prior to disposing of it. I doubt that it has any collectible value but I'm not an expert either. The NH35 movement can be hand wound which would be a plus but it would still be the only mechanical watch in my modest collection of less than a dozen watches. 

Having the 7S26 movement serviced is fiscally unappealing. Service costs are now as much or more than I paid for the watch originally. With the NH36 movement, this would be a bridge to cross in the future so perhaps I would only be delaying the inevitable. I'm not asking for a show of hands here, just some input on whether or not to leave an original watch alone.

Ta,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would want to know why you describe it as "treasured"? If it has sentimental value and you would just like it to work, regardless of what's inside, then I say replace the movement. Could be a fun project.

Otherwise, if you think you're likely to get rid of it, I would leave it alone. Virtually every collector I know values originality over all else, and even if they don't, leaving them the choice to make changes is always the better move.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd service the seiko movement, keeps it original spares are plentiful, if you have the stuff about you to change a movement and cut stems fit hands etc etc you should be able to service that movement. Don't swap it out for a quartz that would be a sacrilidge 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, I've decided to keep the watch as original as possible. I now own a watch with a Seiko NH36a movement and while I like it, I don't care for it enough to duplicate it in my Seiko XKS007. Besides, who doesn't enjoy a little variety? I removed the case back and used the proper screwdriver to wind the barrel manually. Nothing changed other than I didn't feel much, if any tension as I wound it up. 

I used a piece of new pegwood to hold open the click spring while simultaneously holding the barrel screw to let off the tension and begin anew. It turned out that there was no tension on the mainspring at all. I have no idea whether it's a broken mainspring or if it has another issue but clearly the reason for the watch's failure to run is a lack of motive power.

I've sourced a brand new, 7S26 Seiko movement assembled in Malaysia from a trusted wholesale supplier here in the US. Yes, I could save a few $'s by purchasing one on fleabay that comes from Singapore but I would rather support my favorite parts house and with Esslinger, I know that I'll receive a quality item. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know whether a movement from an unknown source is genuine or not. 

My plan is simple. I'm going to switch out the movements, then disassemble the faulty unit while I enjoy wearing my watch again. Should I muck up the old movement, I'm no worse off and there's plenty of help on this forum if needed. Wish me luck....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done mate, glad you’ve chosen to not put a quartz in, have fun swapping out the movements. You seem to know what you are doing so I can’t see you having any snags, as for help you’ll get loads the venerable Seiko movement is very popular and spares are plentiful ok

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I should have noted that I'm going to replace my 7S26a movement with a 7S26c version. The major differences that I can see are the balance cock and the method of regulating the movement. I'll be rebuilding the 7S26a for a spare. I've already noted that Seiko recommends replacing the barrel and mainspring as a unit. Naturally, it's a discontinued part. I won't know if I can repair mine until I remove it and take a peek.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm interested in this also as have a couple of watches with 4R36 movements.  These are hacking and winding movement variations of the same theme and are cheap on ePay usually as NH36 or 36A.  The A denotes day and date.  There are several Youtube vids on swapping these in place of the 7S26.  Worth the effort IMHO.

I just learned that the 3:00 stem movements will work in the Seiko divers with 4:00 setting, but you must change the day dial and cut a new stem.  It seems to be a commonly done "Mod".

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

An update on my project. I'm still mentally flexible enough to alter course when a new path seems more appealing. I've opted to purchase a new 7S36C movement from an individual on another forum. This is the upgraded version of the original 7S26a that came in the watch. The owner of the movement swapped it out of a new Seiko for the 7S36a which has hacking and stem winding complications. Additionally, since the movement was sold originally in Europe, it was actually manufactured and assembled in Japan. Whether or not that's actually a benefit is open to speculation. 

I have to admit being a bit pleased with my decision to basically retain the original features of the watch. The new movement will not have hacking or stem winding capabilities but that's fine with me. It will have the new balance staff and regulation system plus the addition of two additional jewels. I'm also going to change the hands for something quite different (easier to see with my 72 year old eyes) and I've sourced a new jubilee style aftermarket bracelet that is a significant upgrade from the original. Besides, after 22 years of use, the previous bracelet was a bit loose in all the fittings. 

Once the project has been completed, I will be happy to post a full summary along with pictures. In the meantime, I'm awaiting delivery of items from Boston, Germany and Australia for this project. It may take a bit of time but the end result will hopefully be very satisfying. 

Edited by TexasDon
clarity, spelling

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This project is slooooowly moving forward. Actually, it's sort of like a dance. Two steps forward, one step back. My source for the Seiko 7S36 movement forgot to ship it prior to leaving on an extended business trip but, he did remember to pack it along. So, he shipped it from The Philippines instead of his home in Burbank, CA. Then, he sent it signature required, which was fine. However, he neglected to inform me of that , which wasn't so fine. As a result, I was away when the movement arrived on Saturday and missed it. I drove to the post office this morning and retrieved it. 

I could attach a photo if anyone wants to see yet another Seiko automatic movement. This one is different only in its point of manufacture. My counterweight says made in Japan and 23 jewels, instead of 21. Other than that, it's identical to the current 7S26C movement. 

This movement has the black day and date dials and I'm thinking of leaving them. Rather stupidly, I assumed that everything inside the case was correct when I removed all the parts so I failed to properly examine all components. I discovered this morning that one of the dial feet is missing. This particular watch began life in The Philippines as a working tool on the arm of a diver. Prior to my purchasing it, the selling dealer completely rebuilt the movement, polished the case, installed a new hardlex crystal etc. I'm fairly certain that I didn't break off the mounting foot but I do recall some slight amazement at how easy it was to remove at the time. Either way, no use crying about it now. I've ordered a new dial as I see absolutely no reason to reinstall a faulty one.

I've checked high and low and the missing foot is nowhere to be found, including still stuck in the movement holder. I don't believe it was ever there. As I'm still awaiting a new set of hands that were shipped from Australia early in January, the missing dial foot doesn't represent an issue other than buying a replacement dial. Once the hands and the new dial arrive, I can finally begin reassembling the watch. I think the black day/date rings are going to look great. The new crown that I purchased fit the stem perfectly. This crown has an inner O-ring in the base of the crown so it will add an additional layer of watertight integrity. Us old submarine sailors tend to place a premium on that item.

Anyhow, that's the way things stand as of now. More when additional parts arrive.

Edited by TexasDon
spelling

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally, the parts have just about dribbled in. I'm awaiting only the replacement dial and it's on US soil, inbound to me from the port of Los Angeles. It might reach me by Friday. So far, the case has been stripped, cleaned and polished. I've replaced the stock bezel with an aftermarket coin edge stainless steel model. After installing a new bezel gasket and a green insert, it snapped into place easily with a press. 

Next, I replaced the original flat mineral glass with a double domed, blue AR coated sapphire version. I have the replacement movement (Seiko 7S36, 23J) ready to go with the exception of installing the hands. They finally arrived from Australia after being in transit 39 days. I'll show them after the new dial is fitted.

Seiko-mod.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Typical of a submarine sailor !People think you guys are crazy , but what they don't understand is that if you don't do everything exactly right everyone aboard ship dies from radiation poisoning. Bravo brother ! YD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have this vintage Seiko digital LCD watch from around 1985. The "dial" seems to be very dirty and I'm wondering how I can go about cleaning it. It looks like its mostly dirt and grime. What can I use to clean it? I tried looking around for a NOS dial with no luck...
    • Another mistake.. bent the spring the wrong side... i had to cut it off and bend it again however it seems that I fixed the mainspring and the clock started to work. Yes it is shorter now by 10-15 mm but it works. I am really happy. VID_20190221_231500.mp4
    • You can replace acrylic crystals on a lot of vintage watches with just a clawed crystal lift tool. Nice and compact, cheap too. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/round-glasses-superior
    • Your Seiko Watch is considered a very inexpensive watch by even Seiko standards. We recently had discussions on Seiko watches and timekeeping there is an exact procedures Seiko recommends for timing. Casually your numbers are super good for a watch of this grade. Then tech sheets are really handy because this watch is using what's known as the etachron system. This is why I quoted something above on a normal watch you can push on the spring to get things in alignment but with this system both the stud can be rotated and you can rotate the regulator pins. You're supposed to have a special tool but you can do with tweezers. That makes it considerably easier to get things in alignment it also makes it much easier for those not paying attention to get things out of alignment. Then this " smart phone regulator " Thing you're talking about does it tell you if your watches in beat or not?  
    • Normally changing a battery is really simple so if somebody sells you A watch just needing A new battery because they were too lazy to do it, that is strange? Just think you put the battery in the watch is running it increases in value dramatically so maybe they weren't telling the truth? Then we need the model number of the movement telling us that it is a Tissot PRS516 Isn't super helpful because according to link below and it's more like a series of watches. So there should be a model number on the back side of the movement itself.  AndyHull Gave you some good starting answers. 101 make sure you have power to the watch. But there are some additional electrical checks once you verify that Then there is the mechanical aspects. Just because the watch looks clean doesn't mean by quartz watch standards that it's going to function. Mechanical watches have lots of power things aren't quite right they might not run right but they will usually run through all this things that aren't right. The quartz watches are really critical on how clean things are lubrication one speck of dust in the wrong place depending upon the watches enough to stop it almost. So their way less tolerance for mechanical Issues which you can't worry about it until you verify the electronics is working. https://www.tissotwatches.com/en-en/shop/all-our-watches/t-sport/tissot-prs-516.html
×