Jump to content

Clock competition


oldhippy

Recommended Posts

Still trying to work this one out those Baluster pillars look huge I could only hazard a guess I don't think this is English it dosn't seem to conform to any style of English clock production, its quite late for a verge, I don't think its french being a triple fusee,  i'm thinking Dutch, or Austrian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All very intriguing and beyond my knowledge, but looking at it raises some questions...

1. I would guess that the movement is not original to the case - I’m taking this from the commentary about the case being gouged out and the state of the back plate. Seems odd that such a complex movement would have originally been butchered into a case.

2. The movement pillars are very decorative and not like those I’ve seen on English clocks. Strange to me that one has been heavily cut away to accommodate the bell hammer arm.

3. The winding holes are placed oddly on the dial, and spoil the look of the hands as they pass over. I would guess this movement originally had a bigger dial

4. All the holes on the backplate suggest the bells have been moved around

All that said, I have no idea where it was made, but I’ll take a punt at France...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen a number of Austrian clocks that have the arched lower case portion with visible pendulum, also the flower motif both on the case and the movement screws appears to have been popular at some point on Austrian clocks I have seen these both carved in wooden cases and as ormolu mounts, And all the German fusee clocks of the period I have seen have wooden movement plates.

The very large baluster pillars I have seen on both Austrian and Dutch clocks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would expect it to be older. The seller mentions ratchet wheels and clicks are rough and appear to be handmade. Also mentioned, he thinks is the word “fecit “which means he or she. I would like to really have a good look at it before I really make up my mind. That is all I can say just by going by those few photos. It is a Dutch bracket clock with Dutch striking.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I read a description of dutch striking which is in its self a interesting way of striking, it strikes the hour on the low pitch bell, at the half hour it strikes the next preceding hour on a high pitch bell so at the 6:30 it would give 7 strikes, this I have read came about because of a peculiar way the dutch say what time it is, where we would say it is half past six, the dutch would have said it is half an hour to seven. This clock I believe would be a more unusual form of quarter hour striking I presume on the even lower pitch bell giving one strike at quarter past and one strike at quarter to.

This interesting article gives a description of different striking sequences used in clocks,

http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/Murray-striking.pdf

And this page gives a very nice description of Dutch striking and details of a rare repeating Tompion longcase clock employing dutch striking:

http://www.antique-horology.org/_Editorial/Tompion145/DEFAULT.HTM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...