Jump to content

Can you make a watch using this equipment?


Fred

Recommended Posts

It certainly comes with an abundance of attachments. Its down to having the skill to make a watch. I don’t expect you to make a hairspring with that lathe, or a mainspring. I do not see a motor in the photos. I see an indexing plate but do not know what measurements are on it.

I have been very brief on this.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have a milling attachment and a dividing plate, that's the base for making wheels and pinions. Hopefully the dividing plate has divisions that correspond to the parts you want to make. You will need basic (well, advanced) hand and bench tools any pro watchmaker would have. You will have to source cutters for your gear making. It is possible to make them but you would really need more complex equipment like a profile projector to do a decent job. You could layout the holes using the cross slide and milling attachment. Essentially you would have what the fellow at Adventures in Watchmaking blog has and he has gotten quite far in his project. It's taken him years but he's doing it. Some basic CAD software would be really helpful, as well as the Swiss NIHS norms book for designing your gearing.

 

Couple of observations- the cross slide doesn't appear to have a graduated thimble on one axis, and the other (and the one on the milling attachment) are quite small. It appears to be set up "German style", that is, the headstock is to be used on the right. See the cross slide. You can't just flip the top slide around usually. And, on some of these old German machines the slide screws are 0.75mm pitch, so it can get a little nuts keeping track of where you are. AND- they are sometimes left-hand threaded, to the motion to advance is reversed from 99.9% of all other lathes. All that said it is still useful stuff. A friend of mine had an old Lorch with left-handed 0.75mm screws on the slide and he made up large graduated discs with pointers mounted near the cranks to make it a little user friendly. I tried it a couple of times but years of normal-sense screws wouldn't allow my brain to wrap around the reversed-ness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its more the skill to be fair, ive seen people in the watch world make pieces with make shift tools. that was the mistake a few years ago i made, spent a load of money on tools, but was lacking the skill.

 

However... stunning piece of kit you have there, 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

People used to make watches with a lot less a hundred and more years ago! But your question is, “Can you make a watch with this equipment?” and the answer is no, I can’t. But I’d sure have fun trying.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It certainly comes with an abundance of attachments. Its down to having the skill to make a watch. I don’t expect you to make a hairspring with that lathe, or a mainspring. I do not see a motor in the photos. I see an indexing plate but do not know what measurements are on it.
I have been very brief on this.  

A lot of folks launch off to make aaaalll the bits and never make it far. Even Daniels used existing hairsprings (Hamilton) mainsprings and jewels. He only made jewels when needed.

I think anyone looking to make a watch would do well to make a copy of a 6497, an old one with classic gear profiles. That would be a good learning exercise and expose any method faults before diving in to designing and making the whole thing.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would say yes (with a few other minor bits) and that I'd sure like to try....what a great collection.  Are you a buyer for it?

otoh, I'd say from a standing start, having that kit gives you a minuscule fraction of what's needed to make a watch.  Developing the skills and knowledge of to be proficient at making the wide variety of parts needed, is at least 100x more difficult than acquiring the equipment.   Being able to design and draw it all, 10-100x or more again?  You may have some or all of that, but then I doubt you'd be asking the question.

the good news is, that's where the fun, challenge and reward is:  learning and figuring it out.   With close to 30 years of making things in a home machine shop, I'd say the two polar ends of the continuum, buying the machines and having a finished item (model engines in my case but could be a watch) are almost a let down compared to the long, long bit in between, learning, design, developing craftsmanship etc.

Its the striving that makes such a long venture compelling...vs going out this afternoon and buying a watch.

Edited by measuretwice
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...