Hello dear watch repairers.
I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement.
The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance.
I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high.
However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state.
I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result.
What do you think is the problem and what can be done??
I am always thankful for your help.
this is when fully wound
After 5 minutes
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am disassembling a vintage citizen caliber 0200.
It is a manual wind caliber with 21 jewels.
I usually do not have much problem disassembling simple movement like this.
However, the rachet wheel screw is very stiff and won't move at all.
I tried to unscrew it anti-clockwise with nicely fitting screwdriver but it is stuck.
Actually I have an bad experience with a citizen movement like this before.
It was cal.1801, very similar to 0200 and only difference was the date function.
I had same issue with the rachet wheel screw and I ended up breaking the screw. The head part of the screw came apart.
Is this a typical issue with citizen calibers?? or am I doing it wrong??
Please help me out!
Hello dear watchmakers.
Last week, I was lucky enough to get my self a beautiful vintage Seiko chronograph watch with 7015 movement.
The overall condition looked great so I did not expect any problem with the watch.
However, over the last few days, I noticed that this watch stops around 1~2am when the day disk moves to the next day.
At first, I thought there was no residual power in the mainspring but the watch won't start after being shaken for some time.
It runs well and keeps good timing after I move the day disk manually by adjusting hands by crown till the next night around 1 am.
Could you please give me any ideas on this issue?? I really love this watch and want to make this watch perfectly functional. Thank you.
I put some photo of the watch and what timegrapher tells
I recently found a vintage Pobeda wristwatch in my basement, model 1980-1989. Sadly, it is very old and not maintained at all, maybe since the early 1990s. It is mechanical, so I tried to wind it, but of course it couldn't wind. There is a resistant when I try to do it, so I opened its back and checked what's going on. It appears to me, that the Crown Wheel and the Ratchet Wheel are either too tight, or not lubricated/rusty or whatever the reason may be. Also I found out that when I move the watch around, it winds itself, as if it is an automatic one (it certainly does NOT have any rotor, so that is weird). So I was wondering what has to be done, at this moment I don't have any repair tools. If someone can at least give me a direction as to what has to be done, I could search for some tools. I'm not so worried about the watch itself, although it has a sentimental meaning to me, but am curious to find out what the reason for the problem is.
I have recently bought and serviced this lovely 100 year old 'Spikins from Dent' pocket watch. The movement seems higher quality than some watches of this era that I've serviced, having 15 jewels, and being warranted English. It is housed in a solid silver Dennison Watch Case Co. case and has a 1918 Birmingham hallmark.
Given the above info and the attached photos, would anybody be able to identify and tell me whether this is any particular brand of movement? I notice an S in a five-pointed star on the train bridge - is this a trade mark on a movement?
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Good job so far! I'm interested to hear some recordings of your audio...you can upload to mega.nz.
I have a different type of pre-amp in my possession (after waiting a long time for shipping from China), but haven't had much time to get all the tools out to solder something together.
For those that are interested in clocks. Here is a month duration Longcase clock. In case you have never seen one. Looking at the movement you can see how much bigger some of the wheels are in order for the gearing to be able to last a month on one single full wind. It’s a nice clock. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grandfather-Clock-month-duration-strikes-hourly/264092034953?hash=item3d7d1ca789:g:4goAAOSwfgRcDm2e
Good job Eland. Congratulations, you are doing a good job. And do not despair about the broken discs ... I have already lost count of how many I have destroyed, due to excessive heat, excessive force, etc.
It could be that my response is a bit hasty, but I'm sure you do not need any of the devices that you indicate in the links. they are all POWER AMPLIFIERS. And what you need is a pre-amplifier. And seeing what you used in your project, I would consider that what you need is accurate and nothing more. It is possible that some modifications could be made but they would be minor. I would like to ask you to share an on-screen capture of the waveform to determine the level of the signal you are getting. I send you an example of what I am requesting.
If I live to retire and will be in good health (you never know) my plan is to dedicate a lot of time to this wonderful hobby and perhaps even be able to make some extra money doing it. I really don't know if there's any money to be made by building quality watches and try to market them and sell them on eBay, but I'm going to give it a try. Perhaps branding is more important than I imagine, but I'll see. Also, I've been asked by several people to "have a look" at their old mechanical and automatic watches, but so far I've denied it, having too little time even for my own projects.