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    • By Michael1104
      Anyone know a supplier that would have orient watch parts. In general orient doesn’t supply parts I guess and it’s been hard to find on eBay. I have an EM60 repair. The crystal was damaged and whatever damaged it burned through and burnt the inner bezel and I cannot find a bezel with the same markings. Any help would be awesome.
    • By toptime810
      Just finished a vintage build with correct working seconds at the six position. Hard to find a good reissue so I made my own with a aftermarket case and a dial made by me from scratch. logo is also my logo. Looks very professional maybe I could get some opinions from you guys. I have 25 more dials with different designs from single sub seconds to 2 and 3 eye chronographs. Its hard to find the cases I want. I guess I will settle with aftermarket cases for now and modify them.

    • By PaulnKC
      WRT Members,
      I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
      It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
      Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
      There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
      I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
      NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
      Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
      Kind Regards,
    • By east3rn
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?

    • By east3rn
      Hello watchmakers!
      I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch.
      I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor..
      It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job..
      Any advice would be helpful thank you.

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    • I was first in my class in hairsprings and have saved many considered "gone" but that one is GONE, and I'm the biggest optimist you'll meet. Even the best old dude from the Vallee de Joux would not even consider it.
    • I lost the driver cannon pinion in my clone 7750. I ordered a Swiss one, before I read that a Swiss one wouldn't work on a Chinese clone. I could not find out why until I received it. So just to let everyone know why it won't work is, the hole is to big on the Swiss one. The gear meshes perfectly though. So if the hole was right size it would work. If anyone knows where to get one for a Chinese clone, please let me know. 
    • HMT on original bracelet, just serviced, looking more original than any I've had from eBay.
    • Interesting..a gimmick to be sure.but it could  give you an idea of amplitude.dim electric  light might act as a strobe.60 hz is a multiple  of 18000 bph.
    • The height adjustment on all double roller rests is iffy at best. Files are like dogs, they might bite end off a sausage or wolf the whole thing down.   With a double roller rest, if it isn't perfectly parallel to the lathe bed you have a tapered square. If it isn't perfectly adjusted for height you have an oversize or undersize square.   With a single roller it's easy. You turn the diameter for the square to the diameter for the winding pinion. You turn the diameter for the front pivot to the square section of the winding square. You don't turn to the length of the winding pinion- just the square. Single roller rest, file until you just hit the pivot diameter. Index, repeat 4x. Now finish the pivot and the rest of the stem. With a single roller you can flip the rest at any time and measure what you're doing if you mistrust the pivot as guide. With a microscope you also see if you are tapering (possible with either single or double roller- there's no panacea) and correct. Your eyes are incredibly accurate for spotting tapers.   I usually cut the thread first, chuck on that and do the rest. Harden, temper, deblue with a bristle brush and white (steel) paste in the lathe holding the stem in a pinvice then clean up the thread and detent slot, burnish the pivot and large diameter that rides the plate/bridge. The brush usually cleans up the file marks on the square plenty. You want a 6 or 8 cut file for that. 8 best for the finish strokes.        
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