Hello dear watchmakers.
I am about to work on a Civis vintage watch from Germany.
The case of the watch looks like a typical watch case with a snap-off back.
However, the crown and stem won't come out of the case and what seems like an inner casing is actually part of the case.
Frustrated, I turned the watch over to find any opening on the bezel but it is also a part of the case.
How could I get the movement out of the case?? Any advice would be a great help.
Most of my learning efforts are on old, vintage movements; some in great shape, some not so much. I often find a screw or two that are stuck tight. Not rusted, just "aged-in-place" I try typically to put a drop of 9010 on the back side of the screw hole and let them sit and soak. Sometimes this works well. I gently heat them by moving my work light close to the movement and allow them to cool which may help move lubricant into the threads.
When this doesn't work, I'm stuck (no pun intended). Have you a method that also help loosen these old screws up? If so, please share it.
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement.
The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance.
I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high.
However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state.
I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result.
What do you think is the problem and what can be done??
I am always thankful for your help.
this is when fully wound
After 5 minutes
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am disassembling a vintage citizen caliber 0200.
It is a manual wind caliber with 21 jewels.
I usually do not have much problem disassembling simple movement like this.
However, the rachet wheel screw is very stiff and won't move at all.
I tried to unscrew it anti-clockwise with nicely fitting screwdriver but it is stuck.
Actually I have an bad experience with a citizen movement like this before.
It was cal.1801, very similar to 0200 and only difference was the date function.
I had same issue with the rachet wheel screw and I ended up breaking the screw. The head part of the screw came apart.
Is this a typical issue with citizen calibers?? or am I doing it wrong??
Please help me out!
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I suspect I'm not that far from you in that case, I'm not actually in the middle of nowhere, but you can just about see it from here. I'm a few miles south of Perth (the original Perth, accept no substitutes), just off the A9 as you head south towards Stirling.
Ahh, cool, nice to know i'm not on my own up here, lol.
I'm next to the Isle of Skye. Styptic pencils were the staple carded anti shaving cut thing at the barbers, used to fascinate me when I got haircuts as a kid, strange thing is, by the time I was shaving i forgot all about them and old school barbers were becoming a thing of the past.
Hi M1ks Iam In the NE Scotland Fraserburgh understand the problem Andy has mentioned it the chemists sell a stick called Nix or Styptic pencils just solid aluninum sulfate I EVEN HAVE ONE. not that the modern razors cut like the 7 o'clock blades of old.
Squiiffy's clock is communally called a regulator, however in the 'strictest terms' only one of the above weight driven clocks fit this. This would be a, time only, weight driven, seconds beating, deadbeat escapement. About less than 1% of regulators would fit this category, therefore whether it has weights or not the common view is the 'style' is the thing that determines the name not the function.