Jump to content

Moseley 6mm Lathe - Need Collets!


Arthurliu82

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Long time listener, first time caller.

I just acquired a 6mm Moseley lathe. Unfortunately, it did not come with any collets. What drew me to the lathe was the cross-slide. I have been interested in getting one for some time and snatched up this package not thinking it could be anything other than 8mm. With that, i am considering keeping it and getting a set of collets to work with. I know there are 6mm lathes made by other manufacturers like Lorch and Boley. Are collets for these machines compatible with mine? Or must i find 6mm Moseley collets only?

Hoping you all can help me in my search.

 

thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an old Hardinge catalog that lists a lot of U.S. maker's collets sizes for watchmaker's lathes (Hardinge has always been a major collet maker to this day). For Moseley "6mm" collets (Moseley no1) they list a body diameter of .240", which is 6.096mm. A Geneva collet in their table lists body diameter as .235" or 5.969mm which is about the right clearance for a collet meant for a 6mm bore (slightly small actually). They list a thread of 71TPI diameter .200" for Geneva and 48TPI diameter .208"for Moseley, the thread for Geneva sounds quite fine at a metric pitch of .358mm- I have a Schaublin 6mm here with .70mm pitch.

So, it's almost certain standard-ish 6mm collets will fit the bore, albeit with a bit too much play for my taste. The drawbar will most probably be an issue but that can be changed, but that's easier said than done. What's really an issue is that the conical portion on the Moseley is 25 degrees, where Geneva (normal) is 20 degrees, same as most 8mm lathes. 

You are in my opinion far better off setting this machine aside as a beautiful curiosity, and finding a decent 8mm lathe. Try not to get a Moseley 8mm with the conoidal bore- these take specific collets with a smooth curve instead of an angle on the collet head and those collets are quite hard to find too!

Edited by nickelsilver
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...