Jump to content
jdrichard

Made a Full “How To Make A Balance Staff” Movie

Recommended Posts

I would think you will have to anneal the old pivot.Although when searching on the net know-one seems to do this. 

A book I have suggests that you need to anneal it as well but recommends not to if it can be avoided. As well, the part is so small and the pivot is in the pinion side so very hard to heat. And the new balance was working so well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a little off topic but here goes I went to machinist school, and I used to think that you blasted a drill bit through steel with high speed, in actuality old drill bits were hand cranked so HIGH SPEED could mean anything above that, now I use the slowest rate I can to drill, 50to 100 rpm,  and I use a mixture of olive oil and dawn dish detergent in a little water, shake it up  each time!!  it work especially well on stainless steel, rate of feed is force, to the object, so if you feed hard or press hard you are heating the bit NOT allowing it to cut but wearing away the sharpened bit, I cant take a COBALT it and put it to stainless with no lube press to hard and it will sit there and spin,  ADD the goo, spin slowly with lighter pressure and you will see curls of stainless coming off the bit.. cobalt its are much larger here in the USA, not for watchmaking, I have only found just steel bits, but the principal applies, I did 3 pivots on and old LaPhare  Moonphase pocket watch  I used 2 bits , the first one I have an involuntary jerk from time to time and that occurred breaking the first one, chucked up another one and hand pushed it against the staff so I could Feel the pressure , and it went in, and YES you may have to anneal if you know all this I apologize not trying to tell you what to do, just my experience

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
a little off topic but here goes I went to machinist school, and I used to think that you blasted a drill bit through steel with high speed, in actuality old drill bits were hand cranked so HIGH SPEED could mean anything above that, now I use the slowest rate I can to drill, 50to 100 rpm,  and I use a mixture of olive oil and dawn dish detergent in a little water, shake it up  each time!!  it work especially well on stainless steel, rate of feed is force, to the object, so if you feed hard or press hard you are heating the bit NOT allowing it to cut but wearing away the sharpened bit, I cant take a COBALT it and put it to stainless with no lube press to hard and it will sit there and spin,  ADD the goo, spin slowly with lighter pressure and you will see curls of stainless coming off the bit.. cobalt its are much larger here in the USA, not for watchmaking, I have only found just steel bits, but the principal applies, I did 3 pivots on and old LaPhare  Moonphase pocket watch  I used 2 bits , the first one I have an involuntary jerk from time to time and that occurred breaking the first one, chucked up another one and hand pushed it against the staff so I could Feel the pressure , and it went in, and YES you may have to anneal if you know all this I apologize not trying to tell you what to do, just my experience
 

Really appreciate the help. Not sure how to anneal when the pivot is so close to the wheel and leaf gear, pinion.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×