Jump to content

Made a Full “How To Make A Balance Staff” Movie


Recommended Posts

I would think you will have to anneal the old pivot.Although when searching on the net know-one seems to do this. 

A book I have suggests that you need to anneal it as well but recommends not to if it can be avoided. As well, the part is so small and the pivot is in the pinion side so very hard to heat. And the new balance was working so well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

a little off topic but here goes I went to machinist school, and I used to think that you blasted a drill bit through steel with high speed, in actuality old drill bits were hand cranked so HIGH SPEED could mean anything above that, now I use the slowest rate I can to drill, 50to 100 rpm,  and I use a mixture of olive oil and dawn dish detergent in a little water, shake it up  each time!!  it work especially well on stainless steel, rate of feed is force, to the object, so if you feed hard or press hard you are heating the bit NOT allowing it to cut but wearing away the sharpened bit, I cant take a COBALT it and put it to stainless with no lube press to hard and it will sit there and spin,  ADD the goo, spin slowly with lighter pressure and you will see curls of stainless coming off the bit.. cobalt its are much larger here in the USA, not for watchmaking, I have only found just steel bits, but the principal applies, I did 3 pivots on and old LaPhare  Moonphase pocket watch  I used 2 bits , the first one I have an involuntary jerk from time to time and that occurred breaking the first one, chucked up another one and hand pushed it against the staff so I could Feel the pressure , and it went in, and YES you may have to anneal if you know all this I apologize not trying to tell you what to do, just my experience

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

a little off topic but here goes I went to machinist school, and I used to think that you blasted a drill bit through steel with high speed, in actuality old drill bits were hand cranked so HIGH SPEED could mean anything above that, now I use the slowest rate I can to drill, 50to 100 rpm,  and I use a mixture of olive oil and dawn dish detergent in a little water, shake it up  each time!!  it work especially well on stainless steel, rate of feed is force, to the object, so if you feed hard or press hard you are heating the bit NOT allowing it to cut but wearing away the sharpened bit, I cant take a COBALT it and put it to stainless with no lube press to hard and it will sit there and spin,  ADD the goo, spin slowly with lighter pressure and you will see curls of stainless coming off the bit.. cobalt its are much larger here in the USA, not for watchmaking, I have only found just steel bits, but the principal applies, I did 3 pivots on and old LaPhare  Moonphase pocket watch  I used 2 bits , the first one I have an involuntary jerk from time to time and that occurred breaking the first one, chucked up another one and hand pushed it against the staff so I could Feel the pressure , and it went in, and YES you may have to anneal if you know all this I apologize not trying to tell you what to do, just my experience
 

Really appreciate the help. Not sure how to anneal when the pivot is so close to the wheel and leaf gear, pinion.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can recommend carbide drills from eternal tools. See my second to last video on YT, repairing a broken pivot. and you will see They cut through like butter.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread is fast becoming a favourite! Hopefully next you’ll break a wheel and have to re-machine one from scratch, or find a broken jewel as could do with learning that too! [emoji897] [emoji3047]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can recommend carbide drills from eternal tools. See my second to last video on YT, repairing a broken pivot. and you will see They cut through like butter.
 

 
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

Thanks Mark. Btw I bought your training session on watch repair and am going thru all the training now. I am picking up tips on diagnostics hear and there, appreciated. I will check out the carbide bits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread is fast becoming a favourite! Hopefully next you’ll break a wheel and have to re-machine one from scratch, or find a broken jewel as could do with learning that too! [emoji897] [emoji3047]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made a jewel replacement video on YouTube a while back. jdrichard01


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can recommend carbide drills from eternal tools. See my second to last video on YT, repairing a broken pivot. and you will see They cut through like butter.
 

 
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

Mark, these are on eBay. Have you used these in the past.5dffe6989d2ef1d5408d52faa9781398.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, jdrichard said:


Mark, these are on eBay. Have you used these in the past.5dffe6989d2ef1d5408d52faa9781398.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have purchased some from eBay and I found them crap. I then purchased some from Eternal tools and the difference was remarkable. I also have purchased some larger drill bits from Axminster tools which were also very good. As the old saying goes "you gets what you pay for". 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Axminster is where I went to school and in the town I served my apprenticeship. I can remember when Axminster Power Tools first started. Now they ship all over the world. They supply the UK army with engineering equipment such as lathes and power tools. The chap that started it all up is now in a home in Seaton poor old boy, such a nice person too.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have purchased some from eBay and I found them crap. I then purchased some from Eternal tools and the difference was remarkable. I also have purchased some larger drill bits from Axminster tools which were also very good. As the old saying goes "you gets what you pay for". 
 

I think you are right and I may need to pay the high price for a single drill bit. The price of the drill bit is almost the same price of a new part.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...