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Made a Full “How To Make A Balance Staff” Movie

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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I would think you will have to anneal the old pivot.Although when searching on the net know-one seems to do this. 

A book I have suggests that you need to anneal it as well but recommends not to if it can be avoided. As well, the part is so small and the pivot is in the pinion side so very hard to heat. And the new balance was working so well.


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bobbyglover New Member

bobbyglover

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a little off topic but here goes I went to machinist school, and I used to think that you blasted a drill bit through steel with high speed, in actuality old drill bits were hand cranked so HIGH SPEED could mean anything above that, now I use the slowest rate I can to drill, 50to 100 rpm,  and I use a mixture of olive oil and dawn dish detergent in a little water, shake it up  each time!!  it work especially well on stainless steel, rate of feed is force, to the object, so if you feed hard or press hard you are heating the bit NOT allowing it to cut but wearing away the sharpened bit, I cant take a COBALT it and put it to stainless with no lube press to hard and it will sit there and spin,  ADD the goo, spin slowly with lighter pressure and you will see curls of stainless coming off the bit.. cobalt its are much larger here in the USA, not for watchmaking, I have only found just steel bits, but the principal applies, I did 3 pivots on and old LaPhare  Moonphase pocket watch  I used 2 bits , the first one I have an involuntary jerk from time to time and that occurred breaking the first one, chucked up another one and hand pushed it against the staff so I could Feel the pressure , and it went in, and YES you may have to anneal if you know all this I apologize not trying to tell you what to do, just my experience

 

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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a little off topic but here goes I went to machinist school, and I used to think that you blasted a drill bit through steel with high speed, in actuality old drill bits were hand cranked so HIGH SPEED could mean anything above that, now I use the slowest rate I can to drill, 50to 100 rpm,  and I use a mixture of olive oil and dawn dish detergent in a little water, shake it up  each time!!  it work especially well on stainless steel, rate of feed is force, to the object, so if you feed hard or press hard you are heating the bit NOT allowing it to cut but wearing away the sharpened bit, I cant take a COBALT it and put it to stainless with no lube press to hard and it will sit there and spin,  ADD the goo, spin slowly with lighter pressure and you will see curls of stainless coming off the bit.. cobalt its are much larger here in the USA, not for watchmaking, I have only found just steel bits, but the principal applies, I did 3 pivots on and old LaPhare  Moonphase pocket watch  I used 2 bits , the first one I have an involuntary jerk from time to time and that occurred breaking the first one, chucked up another one and hand pushed it against the staff so I could Feel the pressure , and it went in, and YES you may have to anneal if you know all this I apologize not trying to tell you what to do, just my experience
 

Really appreciate the help. Not sure how to anneal when the pivot is so close to the wheel and leaf gear, pinion.

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Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

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I can recommend carbide drills from eternal tools. See my second to last video on YT, repairing a broken pivot. and you will see They cut through like butter.

 

 

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Pip WRT Addict

Pip

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This thread is fast becoming a favourite! Hopefully next you’ll break a wheel and have to re-machine one from scratch, or find a broken jewel as could do with learning that too! [emoji897] [emoji3047]


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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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I can recommend carbide drills from eternal tools. See my second to last video on YT, repairing a broken pivot. and you will see They cut through like butter.
 

 
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Thanks Mark. Btw I bought your training session on watch repair and am going thru all the training now. I am picking up tips on diagnostics hear and there, appreciated. I will check out the carbide bits.


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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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This thread is fast becoming a favourite! Hopefully next you’ll break a wheel and have to re-machine one from scratch, or find a broken jewel as could do with learning that too! [emoji897] [emoji3047]


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I made a jewel replacement video on YouTube a while back. jdrichard01


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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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I can recommend carbide drills from eternal tools. See my second to last video on YT, repairing a broken pivot. and you will see They cut through like butter.
 

 
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Mark, these are on eBay. Have you used these in the past.5dffe6989d2ef1d5408d52faa9781398.jpg


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clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

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9 hours ago, jdrichard said:


Mark, these are on eBay. Have you used these in the past.5dffe6989d2ef1d5408d52faa9781398.jpg


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I have purchased some from eBay and I found them crap. I then purchased some from Eternal tools and the difference was remarkable. I also have purchased some larger drill bits from Axminster tools which were also very good. As the old saying goes "you gets what you pay for". 

 

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

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Axminster is where I went to school and in the town I served my apprenticeship. I can remember when Axminster Power Tools first started. Now they ship all over the world. They supply the UK army with engineering equipment such as lathes and power tools. The chap that started it all up is now in a home in Seaton poor old boy, such a nice person too.

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jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

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I have purchased some from eBay and I found them crap. I then purchased some from Eternal tools and the difference was remarkable. I also have purchased some larger drill bits from Axminster tools which were also very good. As the old saying goes "you gets what you pay for". 
 

I think you are right and I may need to pay the high price for a single drill bit. The price of the drill bit is almost the same price of a new part.


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