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Timex case..


HSL

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Today I decided to do a restore by lottery, first the traditional blindfold and a fast mix with the tombola wheel.
Voilà the long lost TIMEX box gets chosen, well on with the blindfold on again I choose which movement to practice on.
Obviously it will be an 34320-10880 diver with a missing Bezel. Case back comes off with traditional rubber sealing hanging from it, swoosh the rotor gets air born and it seems to be a walk in the park.
But that is how far I got, usually there is a spring holding the movement and dial in place in the case.. no matter how I turn and try to find such a device I cant see it anywhere.
So humbled by this experience I have to ask advice from the TIMEX professionals on how to remove this movement, do I remove the Chrystal and tear it out from the top or is there a swifter way?

TIMEX_FACE.jpg

TIMEX_BACK.jpg

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Looks like there are four tabs holding it to the dial at about 1,5, 7, and 11 o'clock. On the Timexes I've worked on, gently straightening those will free the movement from the dial, leaving the center wheel and hands behind. I've only worked on a few though, so don't take this as gospel!

 

QH

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well it looks like you figured out that is an out the front case.  actually that case is used for both manual and automatic movements.

Each would have a different case back.  Good luck with the repair, if you need the stem crown I may have one.

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Thank you for the offer JerseyMo but I had both the stem and crown.
Now everything is clean and oiled and back in place, gave me a surprisingly  tough match to get it running with a strong clean beat.
And no I didn't polish the glass, I cheated with a new one.
If someone would have a fitting bezel i might have something to swap with....

Timex_Clean.jpg

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    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
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