Jump to content

My new apron, a simple solution.


94marconi

Recommended Posts

imageproxy.php?img=&key=77f0dcc5ac0f9d5bThe lowly kitchen apron to the rescue. After having spent way to much time on the floor looking for parts and finally bending the pivot on a newly installed balance staff it was time for a solution. Pip to the rescue with his recommended Jacot video by Richard Edwards. While the video was certainly informative on the use of the Jacot tool, it was his use of the apron that caught my eye. Pure genius I thought and raced off to the nearest craft store for a plain white apron with no pockets. After I endured the smiles and jokes from the wife it was time to try it out. Brilliant is all i can say. It simply clips to the underside of the desk with spring clamps and slips over the neck no problem. Easy as pie. I dropped parts all night and not one hit the floor. :) It is easy to remove and I just leave it clipped to the desk if I have to leave for a bit. Probably old news to most of you but hopefully it will keep someone else off the floor and at the bench.:)imageproxy.php?img=&key=77f0dcc5ac0f9d5b picture not uploading for some reason...

Ron

Edited by 94marconi
spelling
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea as well. My biggest problem at the bench is my tendency to bring the part to the eye rather than the eye to the part. Finding a chair that goes low enough for the desk is an issue as well. Would like a nice watchmakers bench but would have to give up the roll top desk and I can't do that...IMG_1476.jpg

Finally remembered the photo insertion procedure :)

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luck is only good for things that fall straight down :) that is true... things that fly know no limits. On my knees with a flashlight is still a big part of the game lol The apron sure helps with the bigger stuff that gets bent when dropped to many times...

Ron

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Myself,  I employ a s different approach to the s to the problem with “flying parts”  with a success rate of 6/0 my favor. I use (with extreme caution) a 2X2X1/2 inch Rare Earth Magnet, waving it around, over the floor and flat surfaces until it finds the part. For those that have no exposure to rare earth magnets, they can be outright dangerous, snapping your fingers if you get to close to any mass of ferrous metals.

I am extremely cautious to keep it away from watch and/or tools,  understanding it’s not a mix with watches. But if it’s the difference of finding or losing a part, I go with the less of two evils and have had good luck with the finds.  

Photoed below, well away from my work. 

20181128_130332.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great idea re the apron, I must try.  I use 3 salvaged magnets from (gift) boxes that have a magnetic closure.  These are very powerful and typically the size of cell battery.  I let them attach to a long steel letter opener and use this to sweep around the floor, worktop, clothing and hair!.  I also wiggle it around in the vac cleaner bag before disposal and have later found bits that way!  Just remember to demag the part, as, if it goes again it could attach itself magnetically to something.              For non-magnetic stuff I wrap a length of gaffa/duct tape round my hand and sweep with this, and then inspect with eyeglass, I have found very small end jewels this way.          As with most of us, we probably have the cleanest floor in the house!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Amen to that canthus I do have the cleanest floor in the house for the very reason as you stated. :) I have not had the need for a magnet yet all though it probably wouldn't hurt to have one on standby...My biggest reason for the apron is to protect things like the balance staff I bent from dropping it so many times on the floor. Those little buggers are getting expensive and buying a lathe and learning it's use are a ways down the road yet. Going to the trouble to learn how to change a staff and acquiring the tools to do so and truing the balance only to discover a bent pivot is indeed frustrating to say the least. Learning to use the Jacot tool is just asking for dropped balances :(

Good to hear other solutions as well as other techniques to the parts on the floor dilemma that plague us all :)

Ron

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...