Jump to content
  • 0

Omega with plastic case back


LiamB

Question

I have an omega with a plastic case back. I am fairly sure that it's not original and that ithe acrylic glass was added at some point and has cracked around the edges. Does anyone know how to remove this so the watch can be serviced? 

Thanks

IMG_1112.JPG

IMG_1113.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

14 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

  it may be epoxy.   if you can get the mvt. out of the case thru the front and deal with the case later.  if it is epoxy, use a jewelers saw and cut the crystal at the edge.   vin  

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
2 hours ago, marcoskaiser said:

Hello Liam! Please let us know how did it work. I have a venus 170 missing the case back, and started to consider this option.

On the basis that the cost being minimal, and you do no damage by using glue, why not give it a go? I have successfully used acrylic crystals as case backs on several watches that would otherwise have been scrapped. 

Phil

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
1 hour ago, philipk5 said:

On the basis that the cost being minimal, and you do no damage by using glue, why not give it a go? I have successfully used acrylic crystals as case backs on several watches that would otherwise have been scrapped. 

Phil

That’s encouraging. I will do so. Thanks for the push!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I could not resist and started to make a case back to eventually fit a sapphire glass. I took an old orient case as raw material.

On the lathe, I gave up mesuring and only listened to the cutting to get hairs off the internal diameter of the stainless ring. Got a fit, but also a question: those of you who made the thing for real, what quality/hardness stainless steel should be used? And is there an optimal angle for the fittings of these click-on backs? 

Thanks!

marcos

7D3016AC-6F56-4DC6-B85A-4082B27AEC14.jpeg

537CA103-5280-466C-867D-122929CB5EB7.jpeg

Edited by marcoskaiser
Accuracy
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

316L is the standard stainless for watch cases. Around 3-4 degrees for the angles, you don't want a sharp lip though, there will be a cylindrical land. Fitting is of course a bit of trial and error so a good fixture that allows removing and replacing on the lathe without introducing eccentricity is a must

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
4 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

316L is the standard stainless for watch cases. Around 3-4 degrees for the angles, you don't want a sharp lip though, there will be a cylindrical land. Fitting is of course a bit of trial and error so a good fixture that allows removing and replacing on the lathe without introducing eccentricity is a must

Thanks nickelsilver! I turned a brass holder and left it on the chuck until the end. Only trouble was securing the steel. I used cianoacrylate, and washed it with acetone to release the piece. But heat would melt the glue. Must research some glue for this purpose. Any thoughts?

Best,

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I use cyanoacrylate very often, it's super handy. For something like this case I might use a friction chuck, usually plastic (pvc or delrin), that the case fits onto. Typically a short spigot that friction fits an inside diameter and a square shoulder to butt up against. Of course it only holds for light cuts with sharp tooling.

There are fairly sophisticated chucks that can be used but friction chucks are the traditional method, in the past they were generally wood.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
4 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

I use cyanoacrylate very often, it's super handy. For something like this case I might use a friction chuck, usually plastic (pvc or delrin), that the case fits onto. Typically a short spigot that friction fits an inside diameter and a square shoulder to butt up against. Of course it only holds for light cuts with sharp tooling.

There are fairly sophisticated chucks that can be used but friction chucks are the traditional method, in the past they were generally wood.

Wood is surely more sustainable and cheap than brass...

I noticed that sometimes people like clickspring (makes videos on tooling and clockmaking) use some kind of superglue to hold metal together. 

At 6:54, if you get bored...

 

Link to post
Share on other sites


  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • You did not tell what was that "extra" screw for. I would do the following: - release the mainspring - remove balance bridge - remove pallet fork - rotate train wheels manually to confirm they move freely. If they don't - find out why. Once that is resolved or confirmed, next stem - replace the pallet fork, wind the main spring just few rotations, push the pallet fork gently to see if mainspring energy is being transferred and wheels are moving - just take a closer look at both pivots of the balance staff. Again, gently and without pulling too hard - check both pivot, top and bottom. You may have bent one while removing the balance bridge several times (i hope you did not). - with the mainspring wound, replace the balance bridge. Often balance would self-adjust (impulse jewel / fork) and start moving. Gently replace the balance bridge screw. Good luck!  
    • Valjoux 23/72 ... hadn’t been worked on in a long time.  Tore it down, cleaned it, reassembled - everything worked ... until I realized I left out a screw. Tore it back down, installed everything fully this time.  Balance wouldn’t rotate.  Gears seemed like they were seized. Tore it back down, spent a LOT of time on each assembly step, ensuring everything spun freely.  Installed the palate fork - flicked back and forth as appropriate.  Installed balance as the last step.  No rotation.  Spins freely when “encouraged”, but it doesn’t continue. I pulled it out.  Confirmed that the hairspring isn’t kinked.  Jewels look fine (no cracks or chips).  I don’t have the means to check if the balance staff is bent, but the balance seems level and when I encourage some rotation, I don’t see any wobble. Any thoughts on what to check next? Thanks!
    • I installed the spring back inside the barrel yesterday and checked it this morning. The copper wire band is still holding. But now I have a new problem with this clock. The strike mainspring is going to break at the eye. Is it possible to cut off the end and cut a new eye or should the spring be replaced?
    • what I find interesting is how our brains like to fill in the blanks. So I saw the word pallet fork up until you mentioned that it wasn't really there. This is actually a common problem on this discussion group we fill in the blanks for the original question without always grasping what the question actually is or the circumstances of the question. The problem of watch repair too many variables. At one time the Swiss used to put a tiny dot  on the balance wheel to correspond to where the stud should go. This of course assumes if somebody change the staff that they put the roller where it's supposed to be.  that work we had a small Omega watch timing machine indicates it's out of beat. Note I have an obsessed boss that anything other than 0.0 is barely acceptable. So is out of beat it was not acceptable. Visually the pallet fork look perfect between the banking pins. Removing the balance wheel sure enough the stud did not a line up with the mark. That problem was fixed back into the watch visually nothing changed at all. But the timing machine was happy and now gave us a single line. It's amazing for the timing machine point of view of how little it can be off and its upset but visually it looks fine to us. then there is another method I'm attaching an image for your enjoyment.      
    • Yeah, not much help.  Trial and error.  you know the discs both move anti-clockwise, so correctors and springs need to accommodate that. It should click that way, and not turn at all clockwise. I’d just try it every which way until I got it. SOMETIMES the parts illustrations show the parts as they would look in the movement. That can help with “which way up” questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...