Jump to content

Clock mainspring winders


watchweasol

Recommended Posts

Hi Nad  There are no plans as such just cobbled together the machine from scrap timber and bits and pieces as I didn't feel like shelling out £350 plus for a shop bought unit, the only major expense were the retaining shells bought from America (timesavers) I have roughed out some drawings for you if you can mail me your address I will post them on to you.  have a look on the net for Joe Collins spring winder. It was originly designed for 400 day clocks but by changing the design to suit it will be suitable for all clocks

DSCF2939.JPG

DSCF2937.JPG

DSCF2930.JPG

DSCF2931.JPG

DSCF2929.JPG

DSCF2932.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a nice French Strike on a bell that keeps stopping that i need to sort out. Some time back I also bought a lathe a Unimat 3 with the milling attachment. This will be used to make the clock bushes and to sort out the pivots and screws. So I'll be getting my hands dirty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 stars for your ingenuity watchweasol.....Perhaps not as pretty as one you might purchase but hey You made it yourself and to me that goes way above fancy priced tools doing the same job. I have several projects in the pipeline which I am working on at present. Designing and making tools or 'Fettling' and improving sub standard items gives me as much pleasure as using them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Chrisdt  Yep not pretty but the idea was more functional In that it allows you to free the spring safely and then by reversing the barrel in the clamp tighten up and remove the retainer then let down the spring under control  no gloves!  I still have all my fingers and the thing works for most clocks. The Ollie Baker looks good and the price matches the looks, the Webster is the same

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
×
×
  • Create New...