I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me.
Anyone have any ideas?
I have been asked by my stepfather to service his Sanford Bros HF 36000 automatic watch bought new in 1977. On starting work, I noticed its an ETA 2832 but on looking for the technical sheet, I can't find one anywhere. Perhaps it is a rare movement but maybe there's an equivalent document I can use. My first main concern after removing the rotor is how to remove the auto-wind assembly - looks quite complicated and this is only my second attempt at an automatic movement. I've added a few photos for reference. Of interest, Sanford Bros was a small watchmaking company in the '70s based at 321/323 Oxford Street, London W1. He still has the original sales invoice!
Would anybody be able to point me in the right direction please?
Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
Has anybody done this befor?
And how it the best way to do this?
ETA type of Center Wheel/Cannon Pinion
Working on a Tudor Oyster Prince with ref no: 2081/4 with a ETA 2784 movment.
Cleaned and inspected, all looks good, no sign of wear and tear on the main spring, no sharps bend, looks overall good. Noticed that there where some marks on the barrel wall. But that I have seen before witout any drama....
Oiled it , put togeher , goes like a dream..... but the the spring does not stick, it snaps over after 6,5 turns by crown.
So the question is:
Can I just replace the main spring?
Can I just replace the main spring and do something with the barrel walls ?
Buy a new barrel with spring? Is it to be sourced?
Ref 9081/4 is the ETA 2784
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Hi fellow Clockmakers, Would a bureau desk work as a clock/watchmaker desk? Not high enough (could be solved) or stable enough? I could fetch one of these from facebook around 30-40 pounds. I like the idea because it would be more or less child and dustproof as you can close and lock the whole thing. Best regards, lui
I have a monoprice voxel. It is limited in features compared to others but works out-of-the-box and was a good price. I wouldn't bother with a 3d printer for parts holders and the like. There are a few nice designs on thingiverse but really it isn't worth the bother. Injection molded supplies are going to be better quality and you can buy a bunch all at once instead of one waiting to print them out one at a time. Where it may come in handy is when you need something in a specific shape that you cannot buy. But keep in mind you will need to learn at least some basic CAD design. I use Moi3d which is excellent but there are cheaper alternatives. I've used my 3d printer to create different adapters and holders where I needed an exact shape. For example, I was bending a strip of brass and was able to create plastic bending clamps I compressed with some pliers. I was able to figure out the exact inside and outside curve I needed and print to match. The nice thing about the 3d printed parts is you can use glue to attach whatever you need to it without worrying about having to damage the print when removing it as you can always print a new one.