I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me.
Anyone have any ideas?
I have been asked by my stepfather to service his Sanford Bros HF 36000 automatic watch bought new in 1977. On starting work, I noticed its an ETA 2832 but on looking for the technical sheet, I can't find one anywhere. Perhaps it is a rare movement but maybe there's an equivalent document I can use. My first main concern after removing the rotor is how to remove the auto-wind assembly - looks quite complicated and this is only my second attempt at an automatic movement. I've added a few photos for reference. Of interest, Sanford Bros was a small watchmaking company in the '70s based at 321/323 Oxford Street, London W1. He still has the original sales invoice!
Would anybody be able to point me in the right direction please?
Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
Has anybody done this befor?
And how it the best way to do this?
ETA type of Center Wheel/Cannon Pinion
Working on a Tudor Oyster Prince with ref no: 2081/4 with a ETA 2784 movment.
Cleaned and inspected, all looks good, no sign of wear and tear on the main spring, no sharps bend, looks overall good. Noticed that there where some marks on the barrel wall. But that I have seen before witout any drama....
Oiled it , put togeher , goes like a dream..... but the the spring does not stick, it snaps over after 6,5 turns by crown.
So the question is:
Can I just replace the main spring?
Can I just replace the main spring and do something with the barrel walls ?
Buy a new barrel with spring? Is it to be sourced?
Ref 9081/4 is the ETA 2784
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What the problem here is for your question is Mark's video is confusing. Normally when you do a balance staff you would statically poise first then sometimes dynamically poise. If your dynamic poising you use eight pendant positions usually. So in his video he comments for this particular watch he is dynamic poising. Then adjusting to positions is an interesting term or as your question is which positions should you worry about timekeeping in? Basically what you're doing by timing the watch on the timing machine in a variety of positions is your verifying the watch does keep time in those positions. So for pocket watches dial up and crown up are the most common. For wristwatches I'm attaching what Omega recommends for their watches
check each as old hippy said but end shakes on a 3rd wheel allow a lot more play than lets say a balance or escape. you can get away with too much end shake and not loose much amplitude, too little will def not work though and will def result in a very low amp and or stop the movement. train wheels being loose is always better than too tight in my opinion
its farfo.com dont put the www. or just google farfo vintage watches ridgewood nj. archer is a memeber on teh Watchuseek forums and is very good esp when it comes to high end watches like omega. he is a certified omega repairer, not many of those around. he uses the same equipment they uses at the omega facilities. 100,000s worth of equipment