Jump to content
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By berniethebolt
      hi all.presently working on a AS 1171 of which there seems to little info e.g part nos etc.i seem to have had a accident with one of the train wheels.(please see pics)still new to this hobby so sometimes struggle to identify certain parts unless i have a makers chart in front of me.can anybody help with this and have any chance of finding a part without having to source a whole movement (there are some on e-bay) which would not make economic sense?B.

    • By Mickeycz
      I'm new here and into watch/horology world as well. I recently tried to replace the dial on my 7750 watch.
      1) Open the wathc case
      2) removed rotor
      3) removed stem (gentle push of remove stem pusher and pull the stem out)
      4) removed the movement from the case
      5) put movment to movement holder
      6) removed hands
      7) removed dial
      8) put new dial
      9) pressed the hands back, hovewer during setting it up I realized the movement is not running - even when I wind it up - it is solid/stable and not ticking at all.. 
      Kind of out of ideas what can went wrong, the movement was functional correctly before..
      Thank you for any ideas.
    • By sunday
      Hello, I'm building a watch using a Sellita SW200 and I bought an ETA 2824 dial.  The dial has four feet and so does my movement, but they don't line up, the ones on the dial are too far apart relative to the movement.  I think if I cut off two feet I can make it fit but I'm not 100% sure.
      Is this a common scenario?
    • By AdamC
      I know this is a long shot but would anyone happen to have the technical sheet for the ETA 1164. I acquired this little beauty on ebay; a non-runner from the USA, which needs a lot of TLC. I've never tackled anything quite like this one but fancied the challenge. However, I'm not 100% sure yet whether the everything on the bottom plate under the dial is complete - can anyone confirm? The top plate however looks fine. The watch back is stamped "Seeland Watch Co. Swiss" - having looked it up, it appears Frederick Seeland was once CEO for IWC! Nice historical timepiece once I've restored it. I've added a few photos for reference (yes, I've removed the balance ).
      Thanks in advance.

    • By AdamC
      It's been a while since I've posted but I have an issue that's perplexed me! About ten months ago, I repaired and serviced a rare ETA 2832 movement with a day date calendar mechanism. The watch worked fine until recently when the day wheel advanced half way and then got stuck. Having had it back on the bench and done a partial strip-down, I have re-engaged the day wheel, which now turns freely through all days in the crown/stem corrector position (as does the date wheel when turning in the opposite direction) but when moving the hands forward through 24 hours, the date wheel advances but the day wheel will not. I have carefully examined the day jumper mechanism and note that as the calendar wheel rotates and the arm engages the teeth and rotates the date wheel, nothing seems to be engaging to move the day wheel forward. I have added a few photos which may help to identify the problem. I have annotated with a red arrow, the lever which I think is supposed to advance the day wheel but doesn't engage at the calendar wheel teeth (if indeed this is what it's supposed to do). Any ideas of what I may have missed here?

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I promise this is not another thread about what to use! I have read the pinned thread on this twice and I'm satisfied with my lighter fluid (until it runs out) and IPA combination. Just a quick question about storage and precautions as this is the first time I used IPA. The label of the IPA 99% gives all sorts of warnings. I fully understand it's a volatile substance.. is it any more volatile than the lighter fluid ive been using up to now?  I currently use in a cool, dark, ventilated part of my garage, I wear gloves and keep the water in the US cold.  The fluids are stored either in the original container or in the little jam jars with lids. Then in a box in the garage.  Anything I should be more careful of/havent considered?
    • Many autos are actually based on manual calibers that have heavily modified bridges to accommodate the requirements of a bolt on auto module. If you look closely at some of the AS manual winders for instance you will notice that there are a lot of odd holes in the main plates and even in some of the bridges that don't seem to serve any purpose. Some of these are to make the main plate common to both calendar and non-calendar variants, and I would be surprised if some of them weren't for auto module functions. In fact if you look at Ranfft you will see in a number of database entries the whole movement family is listed, usually starting with the base manual movement, and progressing with the addition of complications. I might therefore be possible to start with a manual winder that is part of a whole family of movements which includes autos and swap out all of the different parts to make it an auto, but the cost would be out of all proportion to simply buying the auto movement in the first place, and then it would be unlikely to fit in the case that the original manual winder came from, requiring a new case to be sourced as well. So theoretically possible, but why would you do that? Converting a manual caliber that has no auto DNA included as standard is also feasible. Cimier has managed to add auto winding to the venerable Unitas/ETA 6497, a classic manual winder, have a look here. In fact a lot of the early autos were just that, but it's only possible if you have the design and manufacturing capability to devise and make the relevant parts.
    • Is the rotor original? Could it of been fitted with a new rotor at some point that has the wrong jewel count on it?
    • Isn't the impulse jewel common to both movements? Since the "C" has a jewelled barrel arbor hole which isn't jewelled on the "B", in order for the jewel count to be correct for both movements the "B" must have a jewelled bearing that is not jewelled on the "C". It would be interesting to see what aspect of the "C" was improved by removing a jewel, even if it just turns out to be the cost of manufacture.
    • Awww. Mine are definitely much better JDR. . To be honest I don’t know, but that’s certainly an enviable display of screwdrivers. The grips aside, the main improvement I found was the precision ground stainless steel blade. Nice display box! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Create New...