Jump to content

Buy a movement or buy a watch?

phydaux
 Share

Recommended Posts

phydaux Watch Enthusiast

phydaux

Posted
Posted

So I'm tentatively sticking my toe into the watchmaking hobby, and like may newbies I'm considering my first project - Sourcing a movement, case, dial, & hands and building myself a custom watch.

As I noodle around on eBay, I've noticed something - Once I price a movement, case, and accessories, it all comes to a LOT more money than just buying a cheap watch with the desired movement already inside.  And the savings gets PRONOUNCED once you start looking at automatic movements.

Am I way off here?  Am I better off buying & busting eBay watches rather than trying to part-up a collection of "custom" watches?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tmuir Distinguished Member

Tmuir

Posted
Posted

Start by buying yourself some cheap movements off ebay you wont get upset if you trash them, and you will trash the first few movements you work on.

You are correct it will be more expensive buying parts to build the customised watch you want, maybe save that until you have had some practice on cheaper movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
yankeedog Distinguished Member

yankeedog

Posted
Posted (edited)

Buy complete watches.stainless steel case , round crystal, swiss movements, why? crystal replacement is simple for one thing. and stainless cased watched , I think, were treated with more respect .They were a little pricier and tended to be someone's "good" watch.so they saw more drawer time.While the chrome plated cases tended to be the ones that got worn to work. when looking at watches pay close attention to pictures of the hairspring and to the condition of the screw heads.watches that are "over wound" are great candidates,they usually just need cleaning and lubrication.the AS 1187/1194 movements are very common , cheap and can be coaxed back to life with almost boring regularity..have fun.

Edited by yankeedog
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rduckwor WRT Addict

rduckwor

Posted
Posted

I have gone both routes, though the "bust" route only once.  I bought the ugliest Swiss Legend watch I have ever seen (warning, nauseating picture attached) because I could get it for less than the costs of a "naked' movement, the ETA 2824-2.  I have yet to bust it open but I'm awaiting a dial and hands and will do just that upon arrival.  The case is in already.  I hope to find someone with even less tastes than I who will buy the titanium case and bracelet once I have robbed the movement.

 

To your question, no one ever said this was inexpensive.  Shop around and find the best price you can.

IMG_20170305_163842619.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Izzy New Member

Izzy

Posted
Posted

There are cheap Chinese clones (st2130, st1812, st36) (that supposedly have a good quality) of popular Swiss movements (2824-2, 2892-a2, 6497), if your desired movement is one of them maybe it more cost effective to buy a watch with one of these clones inside (so maybe it will feel like you are working on the real thing?)

Personally I would probably just buy the watch that I want (or parts if it is cheaper or I don't find a watch with the design I like), buy a cheap clone movement and use the clone movement for all my bustings, this way I have a watch that I'm happy to wear and don't mind to trash, instead of a full cheap watch that I will never use cause it's ugly while I wasted money on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blixen77 New Member

Blixen77

Posted
Posted
There are cheap Chinese clones (st2130, st1812, st36) (that supposedly have a good quality) of popular Swiss movements (2824-2, 2892-a2, 6497), if your desired movement is one of them maybe it more cost effective to buy a watch with one of these clones inside (so maybe it will feel like you are working on the real thing?)
Personally I would probably just buy the watch that I want (or parts if it is cheaper or I don't find a watch with the design I like), buy a cheap clone movement and use the clone movement for all my bustings, this way I have a watch that I'm happy to wear and don't mind to trash, instead of a full cheap watch that I will never use cause it's ugly while I wasted money on it.
Izzy do you have a reliable bay seller where to buy genuine Seagull ST2130 movement?

Inviato dal mio LG-H930 utilizzando Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Izzy New Member

Izzy

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Blixen77 said:

Izzy do you have a reliable bay seller where to buy genuine Seagull ST2130 movement?

Inviato dal mio LG-H930 utilizzando Tapatalk
 

I'm not sure, I faced the same problem, how can you know that you buy the real thing (or not  an old stock), I didn't look much into it cause I will probably end up ruining mine anyways (by tempering with it).

I have decided I will buy from this seller - 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Seagull-ST2130-Automatic-Movement-Clone-Replacement-For-ETA-2824-2-SELLITA-SW200-White-3H-Mechanical-Wristwatch/32916022505.html

From his list of products (I think only seagull watches without anything that look shady (like a scum)) and the reviews he have on his store (excellent ones) I tend to believe that the product will be real (maybe you can ask him if it fresh out the factory or an old stock)

Some things about Aliexpress - 

The sellers there are usually fine writing on the boxes that the product cost less than it actually is (not long ago they used to do this even without you asking..) it helps with the custom tax.

If you have problem with the item you can 1. contact the seller 2. open a dispute in Aliexpress, they really prefer you to contact them instead of opening a dispute (I don't know what aliexpress do to them..)  and usually helpful, the only time I opened a dispute on a 20$ toy that came broken, I got my money back after a day. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blixen77 New Member

Blixen77

Posted
Posted
I'm not sure, I faced the same problem, how can you know that you buy the real thing (or not  an old stock), I didn't look much into it cause I will probably end up ruining mine anyways (by tempering with it).
I have decided I will buy from this seller - 
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Seagull-ST2130-Automatic-Movement-Clone-Replacement-For-ETA-2824-2-SELLITA-SW200-White-3H-Mechanical-Wristwatch/32916022505.html
From his list of products (I think only seagull watches without anything that look shady (like a scum)) and the reviews he have on his store (excellent ones) I tend to believe that the product will be real (maybe you can ask him if it fresh out the factory or an old stock)
Some things about Aliexpress - 
The sellers there are usually fine writing on the boxes that the product cost less than it actually is (not long ago they used to do this even without you asking..) it helps with the custom tax.
If you have problem with the item you can 1. contact the seller 2. open a dispute in Aliexpress, they really prefer you to contact them instead of opening a dispute (I don't know what aliexpress do to them..)  and usually helpful, the only time I opened a dispute on a 20$ toy that came broken, I got my money back after a day. 
Thank you Izzy, Mark replied to the same question and suggested to buy from cousins as a true reliable seagull. If you want to buy in EU you can buy with trust on https://www.alpha-1993.com/en/Watch-parts/Movements/Seagull-ST2130-automatic-movement-clone-ETA-2824-2-SW-200.html?force_sid=cahe8o50rdmf9iilvk7cgib2b6 they send from Latvia [emoji1145]. The aliexpress seller is reliable and has the lowest price but for my experience in Italy I usually wait for postman 1 month and half... [emoji23]

Inviato dal mio LG-H930 utilizzando Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Jon
      Main spring

      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • Malocchio
      What tools does ebay have to offer this week.

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
    • DDean
      Incabloc Lyre Spring & Low Earth Orbit

      By DDean · Posted

      I did in fact use Rodico to get the spring into general position and "hold" it there while I used a fine oiler to make subtle positional adjustments.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Main spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      The two measurements of particular importance wound be the height and the strength,  the length would obviously correspond with the increase/reduction of half mm of barrel diameter. There is a big difference in price considering that the more expensive one is the shortest. The longer one might be ok ? But then it is taking up more room in the barrel, might it effect the unwinding ? I wouldn't have thought so for just that small amount.  Ideally a pro might reduce the longer one to suit. But there is some information that might help, do you have the one that was fitted to measure up, though not necessarily the right one.
×
×
  • Create New...