im new here
I have a question about 2500 movement in Omega...
How can I know which movement I have?
2500 a b c ?
Omega Seamaster 300M Co-Axial 2220.80.00
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquid Metal Limited Edition
thank you all!
Hello all,im new at trying to fix watches. This is my third attempt as my previous watches where so rusted internally that it wasnt worth it.But I recently got a Ladies Seamaster Automatic 684, 586.0089 1976 (according to the Omega web portal).
I was curious if anybody knew what the paint or material that is on the hour markers is??And if it was available somewhere to buy? or is it an obsolete way of face dial design? Since under a loop it has the appearance of sand glued on metal slivers. Can it be that the original paint degraded over the decades?
Sorry I couldn’t get really up close images.
Thank you for all the wisdom for this beginner,mario.
I'm new to this forum that I've followed for a while.
I began to collect watches, also trying to service them. Not very successful so far, but I'm learning.
I have to replace a regulator on a balance bridge on Omega Seamaster cal. 286.
I don't see any screw to remove it , don't want to break anything.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.
I have been working on a lovely old 1924 Omega 23.7 S.T2 gents' wristwatch and have had some limited success in stripping down, servicing and reassembly in that the movement now works and keeps good time. However, on inspecting the parts as I went, I realised that the crown and stem weren't original, explaining why it kept falling out. So I ordered a replacement Omega stem for the exact calibre from Cousins, which arrived today. However, thinking this would be the issue resolved, I was disappointed to find after closer examination of the keyless works, that the pivot shaft end of the stem will not slide home through the pivot shaft hole. I have included photos the best I can to illustrate the problem with some additional photos of the watch for reference.
I have been watchmaking as a hobby for about 8 months and this looks like a pretty advanced problem to solve. If anyone has any ideas how I can get the stem engaged in the pivot hole or any other suggestions, and really appreciate hearing from you.
Hand in the air and waving wildly.....The NH36/4R36 movements ("A" suffix means Day & Date) hacks and winds whereas the 7S26 does neither. I have wondered if they were interchangeable. I have one untouched 4R36A couple of years old that is a daily driver keeping within a couple seconds since last weeks setting.
There seems to be some disparity about the stems. Most 7S26 watches have the 4 o'clock stem and 4R36 is at 3. I have seen recent offerings with a stem at 3 o'clock which do not hack/wind. Any clarification would be welcome.
its more the skill to be fair, ive seen people in the watch world make pieces with make shift tools. that was the mistake a few years ago i made, spent a load of money on tools, but was lacking the skill.
However... stunning piece of kit you have there,
You have a milling attachment and a dividing plate, that's the base for making wheels and pinions. Hopefully the dividing plate has divisions that correspond to the parts you want to make. You will need basic (well, advanced) hand and bench tools any pro watchmaker would have. You will have to source cutters for your gear making. It is possible to make them but you would really need more complex equipment like a profile projector to do a decent job. You could layout the holes using the cross slide and milling attachment. Essentially you would have what the fellow at Adventures in Watchmaking blog has and he has gotten quite far in his project. It's taken him years but he's doing it. Some basic CAD software would be really helpful, as well as the Swiss NIHS norms book for designing your gearing.
Couple of observations- the cross slide doesn't appear to have a graduated thimble on one axis, and the other (and the one on the milling attachment) are quite small. It appears to be set up "German style", that is, the headstock is to be used on the right. See the cross slide. You can't just flip the top slide around usually. And, on some of these old German machines the slide screws are 0.75mm pitch, so it can get a little nuts keeping track of where you are. AND- they are sometimes left-hand threaded, to the motion to advance is reversed from 99.9% of all other lathes. All that said it is still useful stuff. A friend of mine had an old Lorch with left-handed 0.75mm screws on the slide and he made up large graduated discs with pointers mounted near the cranks to make it a little user friendly. I tried it a couple of times but years of normal-sense screws wouldn't allow my brain to wrap around the reversed-ness.