The watch is only a month or so old from I tool it out of the box, so I have not opened it nor serviced it. But obviously it seems like the speed of the watch has changed. Also due to this weird reading on the timegrapher, something seems wrong.
Hand in the air and waving wildly.....The NH36/4R36 movements ("A" suffix means Day & Date) hacks and winds whereas the 7S26 does neither. I have wondered if they were interchangeable. I have one untouched 4R36A couple of years old that is a daily driver keeping within a couple seconds since last weeks setting.
There seems to be some disparity about the stems. Most 7S26 watches have the 4 o'clock stem and 4R36 is at 3. I have seen recent offerings with a stem at 3 o'clock which do not hack/wind. Any clarification would be welcome.
its more the skill to be fair, ive seen people in the watch world make pieces with make shift tools. that was the mistake a few years ago i made, spent a load of money on tools, but was lacking the skill.
However... stunning piece of kit you have there,
You have a milling attachment and a dividing plate, that's the base for making wheels and pinions. Hopefully the dividing plate has divisions that correspond to the parts you want to make. You will need basic (well, advanced) hand and bench tools any pro watchmaker would have. You will have to source cutters for your gear making. It is possible to make them but you would really need more complex equipment like a profile projector to do a decent job. You could layout the holes using the cross slide and milling attachment. Essentially you would have what the fellow at Adventures in Watchmaking blog has and he has gotten quite far in his project. It's taken him years but he's doing it. Some basic CAD software would be really helpful, as well as the Swiss NIHS norms book for designing your gearing.
Couple of observations- the cross slide doesn't appear to have a graduated thimble on one axis, and the other (and the one on the milling attachment) are quite small. It appears to be set up "German style", that is, the headstock is to be used on the right. See the cross slide. You can't just flip the top slide around usually. And, on some of these old German machines the slide screws are 0.75mm pitch, so it can get a little nuts keeping track of where you are. AND- they are sometimes left-hand threaded, to the motion to advance is reversed from 99.9% of all other lathes. All that said it is still useful stuff. A friend of mine had an old Lorch with left-handed 0.75mm screws on the slide and he made up large graduated discs with pointers mounted near the cranks to make it a little user friendly. I tried it a couple of times but years of normal-sense screws wouldn't allow my brain to wrap around the reversed-ness.