Hi all, I'm new here, but have been watching the videos on YouTube for a while now, and used them to educate myself on the nature of mechanical watches. Thanks for the great videos Mark! You helped take the mystery and fear out of these works of art.
I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
Is it possible to purchase parts for a Citizen 8228A (Miyota) movement. I have a rather beat up old example, which is missing the tip of one of the winder gears.
I suspect the answer is going to be, no, you would need to find the parts from another damaged example.
I did look on Cousins, but the part I need is not listed.
Initially I suspected the only issue with it was the balance, and spent a little time tickling the hairspring back into shape, only to then figure out that while the winder made the right noises, it wasn't actually driving the mainspring, due to the missing pinion tip.
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am disassembling a vintage citizen caliber 0200.
It is a manual wind caliber with 21 jewels.
I usually do not have much problem disassembling simple movement like this.
However, the rachet wheel screw is very stiff and won't move at all.
I tried to unscrew it anti-clockwise with nicely fitting screwdriver but it is stuck.
Actually I have an bad experience with a citizen movement like this before.
It was cal.1801, very similar to 0200 and only difference was the date function.
I had same issue with the rachet wheel screw and I ended up breaking the screw. The head part of the screw came apart.
Is this a typical issue with citizen calibers?? or am I doing it wrong??
Please help me out!
It seems to be a Quick fix the little thin curved brass bushing that holds the wheels in the correct position are missing the same kind that holds the hourwheel in position,pressing against the dial. Hope it solves your problem Regards Allan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wasn't expecting thin oil for the 3rd on the ETA 2824-2 to make any difference for the amplitude but I found it interesting that thin oil was used in the service video by a seasoned watch repairer, and that's what made me decide to go for thin oil. As I stated in a previous post and as can be seen in your pictures, ETA recommends HP-1300 for the 3rd wheel. The problem with the amplitude was related to the hairspring, hairspring stud and the regulator pins (Thanks @HSL!) , but that is a different topic.
I'm curious; how can you tell and compare wheel torques?