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I recently came across this while digging thru a bag of watches. It looked interesting and all of the Google hits for "Swiss Made Timex" are in reference to the American Documents series. I've got to assume I'm not searching the right keywords. I was hoping somebody might have a little information on the subject. While looking recently, I couldn't locate almost any Swiss Made. Most of the watches I did find were quartz movements. Thanks for any insight the community can muster!

I have a watch movement that I have hunting for a case for a long time now. I bought the movement rather cheaply as I absolutely love the patina on the dial. The movement is an Wittnauer 11arg (as 1361). When the rotor turns the automatic assembly slips (or maybe the mainspring). The pictured gear slips when the rotor turns. I can still wind the movement by hand however the automatic assembly slipping I believe causes the mainspring to unwind. Does anyone know what is wrong/ what I can do to remedy it? Thanks for your help, Amateurwatchbreaker

I bought a vintage bulova sea king automatic at a antique mall for 80 dollars and I discovered the reason for its lower cost. It appears that it was someone's project watch that they sold. It has a 11 Anacd movement and the rotor is stuck. It can move but it grinds against the metal underneath it. The middle portion of the rotor(with the engraving) is loose and moves independently of the rest of the rotor. I have no clue how to remove the rotor as there are no screws on it. Is this a deeper problem than just the rotor or can I fix/ replace the rotor?

hi y'all-newbie here and I'm sure everybody knows that buying tools for watch repair and/or mods can be expensive if you don't want some of the plentiful cheaper stuff that's out there. That would be me because I'll be turning my hobby into some sort of income soon, when I retire, and I've already spent a small fortune(for me!) on tooling. I surf all over the 'Net looking for the cheapest price; new or used, estate sales, you name it. My questions are, are there blueprints out there for some of this stuff? has anyone made their own tooling? I'm also a machinist and I'd definitely attempt to make my own, and share with everybody. Can this be done? anyone attempted it?

Hello. I am now working on a vintage "trench watch" movement from 1910s that I mentioned before with a question regarding identification of the movement. (I still haven't got the exact ref. of the movement.) As I was disassembling the movement, my screwdriver slipped and broke one of the parts that function as a spring for the click. I tried looking for replacement but I am not sure what I should look for. Also, one of the jewels on the wheel bridge is broken so I need a jewel as well. Could anyone advice me on how to find the correct part for click spring and the jewel for the wheel bridge?? **Could the click spring be put back together?? Thanks. You are always of great help.

Hello, I got this vintage movement from Constructa LTD which is know as a movement manufacturer owned by Mondaine. Cuuld anyone help me find the name for this movement?? On the train bridge, it says '17 jewels, seventeen, unadjusted, constructa watch LTD, 4433 swiss'

Dear fellow watch enthusiasts, Here we have a senior patient whose only ailment is a broken centre wheel pinion (two of its ten leaves are missing). Please have a look by yourselves. The watch is a 1890s Straight Line 15 Ruby Lever Winder ('Ligne Droite Remontoir Ancre 15 Rubis') with a very large 24 ligne (54 mm) movement. The dial maker's ('Widmer') is the only maker's mark, concealed on the dial's back. My theory is that the damage to the pinion was caused by the sudden release of the barrel. A broken mainspring was lodged inside with unusual thickness and length (0.27 mm, 74 cm) for this barrel size (21 mm), which probably made it subject to too much tension. The replacement mainspring (0.23 mm, 64 cm) that has now been fitted is more suitable according to my calculations. The pallet fork and the impulse jewel were disengaged, but this was easy to correct (the balance wheel was repositioned as shown in the photo), and the going train is now back to working condition except for the centre wheel pinion. I took some additional measurements that could become useful: Centre Wheel outer Ø: 15.52 mm. Centre Wheel inner Ø: 3.33 mm. Centre Wheel arbour length: 12.08 mm. I would ideally like to obtain the spare parts to fit myself. I know some of you will say this is too difficult or too costly or not worthy. However, I also know there must be some connaisseurs out there who will empathise with my urge as a learning collector and watchmaker and hopefully will provide me with some practical guidance. I realise my interest in antique pocket watches may not be shared by a majority of members of this forum. In that case, if there is any other online forum or club that you can recommend then that would also be appreciated. Perhaps you know someone in the area of London who can help. Many thanks in advance for your valuable comments.

Hi everyone, I have a Bifora vintage wind up watch, German made. I don't know how to assemble it and no horologist or watchmaker or jeweler that I contacted wants to help. I would really appreciate it if someone could direct me to the proper website, magazine, book, anything so I can fix it and get it working again. I have all of the pieces, my only problem is figuring out how to assemble it. These pics are references, My watch looks just like the one in the picture. I really want to fix it but lack the expertise. Thanks a lot

I have a Swiss pocket watch with an unusual size tongue mainspring... The size is 27" length , .24 strength, 2.65 in height.. Does anyone know where I can find one of this size because I'm having a hard time finding one. Thank you

Hi guys, today I was given a TAHA watch with an automatic movement that has seen far better day's and for the life of me I can not find any reference to the make at all, the watch looks old , its in a 9crt gold plated case, no strap, there is what looks like that the Acriclic crystal has melted a bit, which has let in damp causing the face to rust up a bit. Can anyone help me find out a little history of a TAHA watch?