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Found 8 results

  1. I recently watched a YouTube video (see below) on screw polishing and in the more information section there were instructions on how to build a screw polisher, I decided to make a 3D printed version of this tool based upon these instructions (pdf instructions of brass tool attached - credit or original author): Here is the version I created based upon the brass tool instructions and instruction from the video - I had to change some of the design aspects based upon the different requirements needed for 3D printing, but the essence of the design and key features are kept: Here is the top of the tool (prototype): Here is the underside: I have used M3 bolts throughout (see parts list below) and reinforced the areas under the bolt heads with a standard M3 washers, here is the FreeCAD view showing the complete assembly: Here is the "Bar" section: Here is the body "Frog", the slots in the top and back are to insert the 'trapped' M3 nuts (point down) Here is an x-ray view of the complete assembly: I used M3 wing nuts as locking nuts to prevent the bolts (legs?) backing off during use, I also included a cutout in the top to insert a bullseye level (10mm x 6mm) which hasn't arrived from Amazon yet, and so is absent from my pictures. Parts list: 2 x 40mm M3 Stainless Steel 304 Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Bolts 4 x M3 Stainless Steel 304 washers 1 x Mini Spirit Level Bullseye (10mm x 6mm) 2 x Wing Nuts M3 A2 Stainless Steel Butterfly DIN 315 4 x Hexagon flat nuts A2 Stainless Steel M3 2 x 30 mm Fully Threaded Allen Key Hex Socket Cap Screws Bolts M3 High Tensile I have uploaded the design to printibles (link here), but will include the file here also, I'll attach it as FrogV2.pdf so I can upload here, please download and replace .pdf with .zip to access. 3D printing settings: Material is PLA+, just what I had on the printer at the time, could also work with PETG etc. Fill is 75% gyroid, setting is high to ensure rigidity of the tool during use 1.6mm wall thickness, setting is high to reduce wear on faces which interact with metal parts. Here is the missing bullseye: Here is the link to the youtube: Enjoy! how-to-make-a-bolt-tool.pdf FrogV2.pdf
  2. I spent the afternoon yesterday working on the grade 409 Elgin. I disassembled it, washed all the parts and began reassembly. It's good that I have two of these movements because (as always) I lost a few screws along the way. This is a photo of one of the kind of screws that I lost. It is sitting on the graduated surface of a 6" Starrett rule. The thick lines represent the marks on the rule and they are 0.0156" apart (or 0.39mm for the rest of you - I don't have a metric rule, I have a metric dial caliper). The point is that the screw is really (really) small. It looks like a piece of black pepper. Explain to me how/why my stainless/non-magnetic tweezers seem to be magnetically attracted to these screws? By the way, two of these hold the upper balance jewel setting into the balance cock.
  3. Hi Mates!!! Hope every one stay safe, and have a good time now before Christmas! Here in Norway, near the North Pole life is going as usual, fiddling with Christmas decorations and watches. Currently working on a Omega cal. 1012, and I see that the screw for holding the balance spring is missing. Is there anybody that have that screw? Or the balance cock / bridge with screw? Omega Part no: 1012-3414 screw for stud. Greetings from the North!!
  4. I've got an old Nvidia Ladies Watch with an ETA 2360 movement that I'm trying to get up and running. The movement looks nice and in good shape and luckily I also have som spare parts lying around. The dial is mounted with tiny screws on the sude of the movement. There seems to have been som moisture ingress into the movement since I can see traces of rust and, of course, one if the dial screws has rusted pretty bad so I'm unable too remove the dial. I can see the groove in the screw and I can fit a screwdiver there but the screw is really stuck. I've tried putting some WD40 on it and letting it soak for a day but to no avail. How can I remove the screw ? I have extra screws if needed so I don't need the stuck screw.
  5. Hello new guy here, I recently purchased a new watch and in attempting to resize it one of the threaded link band screws was being very stubborn and ended up being stripped (one side of the pin is threaded and the other is a flat head screw). I can't get any torque on turning it at all. I ended up ordering a space couple of links with new screw pins. How can I remove this threaded link band screw? Not opposed to breaking it off somehow since I have some replacements coming. Thank you!
  6. Hello! I just want to give a head's up to anyone who's opening a jungahns J687 movement - the ratchet wheel screw is left-hand threaded. I found it the hard way - I had to replace the barrel arbour It didn't have the usual 3 line warning. Also I was used to the crown wheel screw being left-threaded.
  7. I am trying to find a replacement for a broken screw from a Favre-Leuba 253 movement. This screw holds the keyless works and half of the screw head was missing when I took the movement apart. I was able to get the screw out intact (see photos). I don't know where to order the screw. I looked on Casker website http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/watch-screws-assortment-ss3.html and found some screw assortments. I was going to order their part number 958.001.268 in the hopes that a usable screw would be included. I have a pdf of the movement's parts (see image). I believe the screw I need is number 5445 (at the bottom) It attaches part number 445 to the movement. Any help/advice on finding the screw would be appreciated.
  8. Hi Can anyone help me with this problem? I have a size 12 american pocket watch that has what appears to be the wrong screw in the nickle barrel plate. I need to remove it. It won't turn left or right, the head doesn't protrude far enough to grab it with a pin vice.
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