Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'longines'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


    • Watch Repairs Help & Advice
    • Your Walkthroughs and Techniques
    • Your Current Projects and Achievements
    • Tools & Equipment
    • WRT News & Announcements
    • Introduce Yourself Here
    • Your Watch Collection
    • Watch or Horology Related Videos
    • Chat About Watches & The Industry Here
    • Relax Zone: Chat About Anything Here
    • Help & Support With This Website
    • All Things Clocks
    • Watch Repair Course
    • Watch Parts and Tools Suppliers
    • Resources and Articles

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start











Found 12 results

  1. Hello, This is my first time posting on here because I figured I needed some serious help and I'm an infant in the watch servicing hobby. I don't really know much about the lingo so just bear with me please. The movement in question was one that I purchased off Ebay with not much of a description. I needed it for a history project and it was relatively cheaper than the other options. Looking back on it now it was dumb to even buy it. I tried to solve the issue of not having a jewel that'll fit the balance by buying one online on a website called URDELAR.SE. Incase you would like to give it a look and see if I got the right one, the part number and item description is here: VAT No:SE559196569301 Item: Longines Shock-Resist, Insetting for balance upper and lower Description: SKU: L-Shock-Resist If you took a look at the part then you'll notice that it looks nothing like it should, but the website said it fit a Longines 19AS movement. I dont know if I was mislead or something because today (April 12th 2024) I tried to place it into the chaton holder. I was met with the unfortunate surprise that the jewel doesn't even reach the pivot because of the interior angle in the chaton holder. Maybe I'm putting it in wrong but I'm not sure. I've tried looking for sources that would tell me how to put this thing in there, but to no such luck. I may also need some help taking out that chaton holder but I think I'm way to inexperienced with that and I dont have an incabloc press. It's not totally obvious in the pictures, but, the jewel that I purchased (left image) is way smaller than the diameter of the chaton holder. But the metal ring on the outside (Imma assume thats the spring) blocks the jewel from going anywhere near the pivot of the balance. I know I said I purchased the jewel and not a spring and a jewel before but I'm a bit too lazy to go and find where I said that. My question is to anyone, could you please help me? Even if you direct me to a different website, thats still helps. To prompt my second question, I also had an issue with the winding stem. It came broken. I'm not sure what kind of information I would need to show someone on the case itself but what I can tell you is that the crown and stem are very tiny. Could someone direct me to a website that could help me find a new crown and stem? Reguards, tripleman
  2. Hello all, Wonder if anyone can help me out, I have a Longines Cal. 350 and after taking it apart I realised that both the winding pinion and clutch were missing, looking back at my photos I realised that they were never there. I have had a look on eBay, but I'm not sure what the part numbers are as the service manual I found does not list them. eBay has a few donor movements but they are very expensive. Are there any alternative calibers that I could use which would have a compatible clutch/winding pinion to expand my search? Pictures
  3. I wonder if anyone can help, I am servicing a Longines Cal 280 and I took apart the mainspring and cleaned. I thin learned that it was a sealed unit and would not go back together. I ordered a new barrel from eBay but the one that arrived does not have the cut outs for the T on the mainspring and I can hear it slipping when I try to wind it. Does anyone know where I can find a barrel complete with spring? Is there an equivalent cal which has a common mainspring/barrel?
  4. I got this Longines winding watch from my mother-in-law many years ago. She has since passed away, so I can't ask her if it ever worked for her. I'm sure I asked at the time, but that was a long while ago, I don't recall her response. The hands never budged from 12:00 (or whatever time you set it to). I took it to a jeweler twice, and paid $60+ each time to figure out what was wrong, but neither of them could fix it. I'm thinking that this one might be outside my scope (obviously...I'm a total novice at this and they were both professionals), but thought I'd go ahead & check with y'all and see what ideas you had that I might look for. Perhaps they were trying to keep their time down to spare me their cost. There is zero rush on this, I will probably keep picking it up and thinking about how to tackle it as I gain more experience repairing other watches. It's fun!!!
  5. I recently purchased a Longines Admiral watch that I though was an automatic. There is the link to a similar one on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-LONGINES-WITTNAUER-ADMIRAL-GOLD-FILLED-GENTS-RETRO-AUTOMATIC-WRISTWATCH-/382004003649?hash=item58f1368341:g:qUcAAOSwA3dYgFXu As you can see the one I have is identical to the automatic one on eBay (see photos).To my dissappointment I have discovered that it is has a Ronda, 1 Jewel quartz movement (labeled "Swiss Parts" that is assembled in the Far East). There is no caliber number on the movement. Also I was expecting a two piece stem but the Ronda has a one piece that i had to force out to remove the movement from the case (only comes out the front).The inside of the one-piece case states: Longines WittnauerStar W.C. CO.10k Gold Filled2951-5056912972Does anyone know the Ronda movement was a replacement for the original Longines movement? OR did Longines sell this watch with the Ronda movement in the 1970s/1980s???Does the watch have any value if the movement is not the original?
  6. I recently bought this Longines, and I believe the hands are not original, as I've yet to find a Sport Chief with similar hands. I've tried to figure out how to find some original hands, but short of buying a whole watch with the same 12.68Z movement, I haven't found a solution. I've looked on all the listed parts vendors on this site, but no hands to be found. I've looked on ebay for a few weeks now, but also to no avail. I've also considered just finding some new hands, but I'm lacking a hand measuring tool, and didn't feel like the cost was worth it to fix this one issue at the time. Hence, here I am, hoping that someone here has the knowledge I seek, or any pointers on where to find the information I require. Either where to find original hands, or the dimensions of the hands so I can consider buying new unoriginal hands. As you can see, the glass is also cracked, so I've wanted to replace that. I wanted to avoid removing it for as long as possible, as the watch is currently getting wrist-time now and then, and reinserting a cracked glass often turns out to be a sad endeavor. So if anyone has any idea about the dimensions of the crystal that would also be greatly appreciated.
  7. Hello lads!! Im working on a Longines 503, but how do a set the day and date??
  8. Sharing two watches I won off the bay. Both were advertised as needing work. First off is an old Invicta handwind. Older Invicta are good buys but typical of watches from the 50-60s era is they are usually let down by base metal cases and the dials usually have water damage. This one caught my eye as it has a decent dial in good condition. Even the minute track is in good order. The case is stainless steel. This type of dial has a copper coloured finish which I really like as it changes colour at different angles. The hands have been re-lumed but I think its not the radioactive type of lume as it no longer glows. The caseback indicates 'stainless steel back' which usually indicates a base metal case but this one is a stainless steel case. Waterproof, anti-magnetic and Incabloc...all good stuff. Inside we find an AS1194 movement. A good, well designed solid workhorse movement. It was not running and when I opened it the reason was quite apparent as the ratchet wheel was loose in the case with its screw lying next to the balance. Returning the ratchet wheel to its place and gave it a few winds of the crown and its running like a champ! It's been on my wrist for the past 8 hours and its been keeping good time. I got lucky here! Looking at the caseback, its a bit different in that the threaded male portion is on the case instead of on the caseback, which in this case holds the female thread. It uses a lead seal which is visible outside the threads in the case picture below. The second watch is a Longines. I bought it because the case was in great shape, these gold filled cases usually don't wear well and the caseback and lugs usually have the gold worn off on the rear. In severe cases even the upper edges wear. This one is pretty pristine. It came with a period Speidel. I'm not a fan of these generally and they can sometimes damage the case but for the limited use this watch will see I think I'll leave it on. The facetted glass crystal has some scratches but not enough to warrant sourcing a replacement. Pic of the rear.. the only visible wear is on the caseback near the crown. Not too visible. Dial has seen some sloppy handling, hands are slim and look delicate! Inside we find a nice Cal 9L. Picture below shows it running strongly (balance blurred). The seconds hand 'ticks' but the hour and minute hands don't move. The lack of resistance when setting the hands indicates the cannon pinion is slipping and needs tightening. Not normally a problem but with a sub-seconds movement the cannon-pinion has a closed end and this needs more force than a traditional open pinion so more care is needed. The barrel bridge and train bridge have different hues in the picture below but it is not noticeable with the naked eye. Final picture is the inside of the caseback. The case is made by Wittnauer in the USA, which was a way to reduce taxes. This association led to a lot of 'Wittnauer' branded watches being labelled as Longines-Wittnauer despite Longines not being involved in these watches at all!. A detail visible in the picture below is the recess drilled in the caseback, this is probably to clear the ratchet wheel screw. Cost for the Invicta was around USD40 and Longines about USD65 (shipping included). While bargains on ebay are not as common as before there are still good buys if you're patient (and willing to take a chance!). Both brands are still in existence but they are juat shadows of their previous past. Invicta is famous for 'homage' watches with cheap movements while Longines is basically banking on their name and buying ebauches. Anilv
  9. My uncle bought this watch in 1991 and left me it in his will. I've been unable to find the same watch anywhere online so I was wondering if anyone could help me find out more about it?
  10. Im trying to find a watch balance staff for this longines 18.79 abc. Does anyone know where I can find or have one made for this movement?
  11. I received the attached ladies Longines watch, around 33mm. It has missing a caseback that needs replacing. I believe the model number is on the missing caseback. Anyone could offer some advice on how I could identify this in order to be able to get the right caseback replacement? Thanks
  12. Hi All First watch job as a novice watchmaker, I bought this Longines Cal 12.68z 1969 at the flea market as a scrap, and its shows jerky movement on the second hand skipping like 5 seconds every minute. The hands don't look right and the dials ... I leave it as is. If not for the Longines logo.. I can't identified this watch without opening it. On disassembling found it was the escape wheel that was damage, it's an old watch so I guess it's in pretty bad shape to start with. Ordered from ebay, and it took along time to reach me. Replace the wheel and one thing leads to another, on installing the click spring, the tiny screw decided to take flight. Ok I was using cheap tweezer, that remind me to get a good sets of tools. In the mean time I just dressed it to ensure no more aeroplane job for those many more screws. No way I could find that screw, it's the smallest of the smallest in this watch. So back to ebay and ordered a box of screws as I found some discussions about it here.. so another 2 weeks of waiting and it finally arrived and lucky me.. there's one that fit. BTW I did not dismantle the center wheel, I feel I am not up to it yet. Looks like it pressed fit and I don't dare to touch it at my present skill level. It was over oiled and very dirty, I do not have a cleaning machine (yet) so a simple dip cleaning and some tooth pick will do for now. Assembling apart from the aeroplane incident goes without anymore surprises, just that I need to horned my skill and getting better tools. The balance wheel and pallet is a challenging part to me and all else is okay. I use Chinese made oil as lubricant at the moment and lube all the jewels, not reaching Moebius or Novastar level yet... so it more like Mario Brothers at level one... had to earn points before I go up scale. So here it is, nothing special it's a basic movement as a start, and I have lots more watch to do as practice pieces. On the wrist, hey.. this watch is older than me... I'm 53 and this old timer is 56 years old.. :) One thing I learn from this first job is... I need higher quality Screwdrivers and Tweezer for a start... time to get the credit card out.. I can't find high quality tool here in Kuala Lumpur.. most shop do the Chinese brand.. will try to get either A*F or Horotec sets.. a basic set will do for now. Suprisingly after 24 hrs.. running no further adjustment needed.. it's keeping good time. There you go... Mario Bros at level ONE.. BTW.. anyone know what model is this watch.
  • Create New...