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Found 5 results

  1. Hello everyone am new to this thanks for the great forum , i have an IWC watch with 630/1 movement after removing the stem from the movement the watch quit working I tried to change the battery but didn’t help so please guys if anyone knows what’s going on with it help me out please . thanks in advance.
  2. In this video I am servicing an IWC FA Jones mechanical wind watch movement. View full YouTube video
  3. Hi, one of my favorite watches is my IWC Flieger Chronograph (Ref 3777). The only thing that annoyed me was, that it was almost 3s late every day. 15s or more in a week! I know, this is complaining on the highest possible level. But still. If she would go 15s fast a week. Fine. But not late. My Weishi Timegrapher 1900 showed it pretty clear. After quite some experience with movements I dared to open it! No way to take the movement out, just opening it. Wow, what a nice movement! But regulating the balance proved to be a challenge: There is a little screw (going from the left to the right) which is used for fine regulation. The only problem: the screw is obscured by the case. And the stud is extremely smooth moving. The first thing I did was bringing the balance out of center while pushing just a little bit too hard. I was totally relaxed, because it was easy to bring it back in the right position with the Timegrapher. What is good about the 1900 model is that the two lines (tick and tack) are in different colors. When you push too hard the yellow line is above the green one (or vice versa) and you know, you went too far. The beat error itself does not change (e.g. turning negative). Very nice and helpful feature. It took me quite a while to get everything in perfect condition. With dial down I had to regulate her 2s fast. To make a long story short: in the morning she is spot on and in the evening she is 1s late (again!). But with crown down she is running 1s fast in 7h during the night. Spot on next morning! BUT: Here is my question: The beat error is 0ms dial down but 3ms dial up. I have absolutely no explanation for that. I thought that the beat error should be the same no matter what position the watch is in. This was also the case before I regulated her. I am looking forward to hear your explanation! Thank you and Cheers Alexander
  4. Giving an very old movement an old case Some weeks ago I was fortunate in finding in Germany a very early IWC Cal 64 pin-set movement in reasonable good condition. Movement number: 97059, year of construction: 1893, Caliber: Sav. Cal 64, 12 1/2 lignes. It was presumably a left-over from a cash sale of its gold, hunter case. The movement came with a perfect enamel dial marked: E. Sommer, Mexico. This was clearly worth some attention and being a savonnet movement could be re-fitted into a period wristwatch case. So, after a dis-assembly and complete clean in an ultrasonic bath the re-assembled movement ran beautifully with reasonably good timekeepin and just a little beat error. One gremlin, as Mark would say, turned out to be that the cleaning solution had removed most of the shellac from the underside of the pallet - the little blobs of shellac that help keep the jewels in place. Fortunately it turned out that the jewels had not moved. Being an amateur on the wrong side of 70 with not-so-steady hands I had to find a solution. This was as follows: some flakes of shellac were dissoved in high-grade ethyl alcohol. This solution was then left in an open jar until most of the alcohol had evaporated leaving a rich syrup. Using a fine oiler minute blobs of this shellac syrup were applied to the underside of the pallet in the places where the original shellac had been. The syrup dried to a hard shellac layer leaving the pallet looking exactly as it was before the ultrasonic treatment. The pallet went into the movement and behaved perfectly. The plan was to fit the movement into a silver trench case - I had a 1917 case of the right size.The next gremlin was how to fit a crown onto the protruding square end of the stem, and as this stem is permanently assembled in the movement, how to manage the installation into a case. My rather awkward solution was as follows. While out of the movement, the square end of the stem was turned and tapped to 1.2mm for three-quarters of it protruding length. The movement could be slipped into the case by first feeding the stem through the winding stem hole in the case. And then the case screws were fitted. A suitable crown was found that could be screwed onto the stem provided that the stem could be prevented from turning. This was achieved by making the little very thin tool with a rectangular slot. This slips between the movement and the inside of the case gripping the remaining square end of the stem. The crown could then be screwed, and unscrewed as needed, A suitable strap was made using a 10mm trench strap supplied by Chris Balm and a little in-house genuine lizard to act as a back pad. Here is the emminently wearable final product.
  5. Hello all! I'm trying to open another can of worms! Mark did a service on a mechanical IWC: Not related to that, I have been searching recently for a cheap chinese copy of 6498/6497 (don't ask me why, I'm not not exactly sure) and I stumbled upon: http://www.amazon.com/Parnis-Mechanical-See-through-Watches-Leather/dp/B00KWC84RW/ref=sr_1_163?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1414320594&sr=1-163&keywords=parnis+mechanical What do you think about that? I mean it is 50 times cheaper (wild guess) and I suppose for some, it is 100 times uglier (ot other word of their choice). But do you think it runs 50 times worse? For 100$ I will take the chance! Thank you, Bogdan be sure that if I buy it, I will make a more in-depth review of the movement, or at least with more pictures.
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