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  1. I just serviced a 2804-2 which had the problem that when I wound the watch every once in awhile it "slipped". After some advice from a watchmaker it seemed it was a problem with the winding pinion (clutch) and the sliding pinion - their teeth were worn. So I changed them with a set from a 2842 (from a swatch auto). Under the 15x loupe they seemed identical. Also, it solved the problem, there is no more slippage. I presented the above because I want to ask your opinion for the problem that I have now: When I wind the watch the crown turns quite hard IMO. It happens in both directions (both when winding the mainspring and when turning the crown back - when the sliding pinion slips over the breguet teeth on the winding pinion). The problem is also present with the crown wheel off (the one that engages the ratchet wheel). I put silicone grease on the case tube - it didn't help. Do you think the crown is the problem - namely the rubber gasket in the crown - maybe it got old and hardened? Or do you think it's the pinions that I replaced? Thank you, Bogdan
  2. Hi everyone. A bit of a puzzle. I know there's probably a straightforward answer to this... I have a Victorinox Swiss Army Officer's 1884 - 24709. I need to understand... How do I waterproof when the crown is pushed in? It appears to have a flush post crown which the stem screws directly into. However the case tube is also flush with the case. The stem has some wiggle in it when attached as if something is missing. However looking from the inside there doesn't appear to be any evidence of a gasket. Has anyone seen this type of setup, or know what may be amiss? I would prefer to keep the crown if at all possible. Otherwise I would replace the case tube with a generic screw-down crown but that's really a last resort. See attached pics. Thanks! -A
  3. Hi All, I'm a late commer to watch repair. As I've mentioned in a reply to one of the members, the place where I work ordinarily goes as far a movement replacement. The owner has good reason to limit the depth of the repair, but I can't help but want to go into the nuts 'n bolts. Therefore, I have to find my own time to try things. With a busy home life, I'm limited. Since I can replace movements I came up with a handy way to pull the stem (I can never find a movement holder). I was taught to use an old stem as a release but, sometimes find it awkward I modified two types of dental flossers. They permit me to hold the old stem with my index finger while using my thumb and middle finger to hold the movement. I broke the tip off the flosser and used a pin vise to drill a hole to thread the stem into the end. One style gives me a way to depress the dimple when it's offset. The other style uses a sewing machine needle. I've attached photos. Hope someone finds this helpful, Dave
  4. Hi All! I've just received a pretty Buler watch, bought on that well-known auction site, and having an Ebosa 65 movement. It has a broken stem, the remains of which I extracted and compared with my stock of assorted stems. Sadly, I can't find one exactly like it. I looked up the movement and found it on Ranfft's wonderful site where it is listed as having a W2614 stem. My question is how can I translate that number into a new stem? I looked on Cousins' site and couldn't find an individual stem with that number and if I Google W2614 the only reference to it is Ranfft's entry! What's the trick with these stem and balance staff numbers that Ranfft lists?
  5. I have an old small Seiko quartz watch with a case number 200834 and stem number 2E20-6300. Some time after a repair of the stem by a jewelry store, the stem began to malfunction again and the crown got loose and was lost. After watching a few of the repair videos on your website, I thought Seiko design should be just as straight-forward, and I might be able to do the repairs myself. So, I purchased a new stem and a new crown and tried to remove the stem after attaching the new crown by pushing on any of the holes or screw-looking spots or levers to unlock the catch. Unfortunately none of them seemed to budge. In the process of fiddling, the watch internal popped out of the casing with the seal now loose. I would appreciate any help that anybody could offer. I guess I may have to purchase some very small screw drivers if needed. FYI: I am attaching two pictures of the watch, one for the back side of the internal and one for the watch back cover. In the first picture, the watch internal is just resting on the watch casing. Thank you.
  6. Hi All, Newbie here, needing help on removing the stem on an Anne Kein watch as show in pic. Any help is appreciated. Thanks,
  7. In the excitement of repair, I accidentally broke the stem off. What are the tips on getting a replacement or fixing this? This is of the SeaGull TY2867 movement, not one of the popular movements. I checked website like Esslinger, the stem replacement goes by brand like ISA, Ronda, Seiko, etc. Do I get whole new stem, or just get an extender? If I getting a new stem, what to get (how can I tell which is the right one since this is not of a popular movement that I can order by caliber number)? Also, will an extender works, and is it a better/worse option? What's the general guidelines, whether to replace the whole stem or get an extender? Much appreciate your always helpful insights. Thanks
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