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  1. Hello I have a ladies Omega Seamaster from the 80' Cal. 684 that i cleaned, oiled and installed a new mainspring in it. it is running 12-15 min slow per day. I will put a picture of the amplitude screen shot. i am new to watch repairing so any help and suggestions welcome. Thanks, Omar
  2. This is another one of my Grandfather’s watches. It had stopped running years ago. I decided to take the back off and have a look. First thing I noticed was a rusty crown shaft and one of the screws that holds the movement was rusty also. I removed the crown and the watch from the case. When I removed the crown it started running. I removed the rust from the crown and screw and reinstalled the crown with some lubrication. It has been running and keeping pretty good time for 3 days now. Help Request: I would like to ask for some help and guidance for finding the proper crystal for this watch. I have searched and searched but I can not match any of the numbers I have to anything I have found online. This really has me stumped. Here is the information I have with a few pictures also. Omega Seamaster Calendar Calibre: 502 Movement Serial Number: 17073574 Numbers inside case: KX6275 E76553 If anyone could steer me in the right direction to locate the proper crystal I would appreciate it.
  3. If anybody want's proof that WD40 and an Omega Seamaster Co-Axial does not mix well then take a look below. Be aware - these pictures are quite graphic... And yes, the balance spring is bent as well... I truly am not sure I will be able to revive this as the co-axial parts are restricted, but we shall see how this turns out - I am not too hopeful though.
  4. I'm working on my first Omega restoration (normally a Seiko guy) and it's an Omega Speedmaster reduced (3510.50) but missing its crown. Looks like I can get a replacement from Cousins but does anyone know the diameter, and ideally the depth (height) as well? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi All, Just got this Omega Constellation which is also known as a 'pie-pan' due to the dished dial. This is the larger cased version which is not as common as the normal sized Constellations and apparently produced for Japan, Singapore,Indonesia and Thailand markets (no mention of Malaysia , where I'm at!). It also has a hidden crown, not so common among Omegas of the period. It dosn't have a gold constellation on the back tho'. Now the interesting bit....Prior to this I have read about the 'landmarks' in Omega where they had produced consecutive batches of watches which passed the COSC test..historical because all the movements were consecutive. The three landmarks were a run of 1,000 (in 1949), 20,000 (in 1959-60) and 100,000 (1964-66). When I got the watch the first thing I checked was if I had gotten lucky and 'scored' one of the watches from the batch of 100,000...Well the batch of 100,000 comprised of movement serial numbers from 24,410,000 to 24,509,999...as it turned out I got lucky! My watch has the serial number of 24,422,084 which is the 12,084th of the batch of 100,000. Movement runs well but I think it could do with a clean..the plates look a bit tarnished, hopefully a cleanup will improve it. Also the rotor has been changed as the colour doesn't match. No real issue as this was probably done back in the day when function overuled cosmetic appearances, I'm just happy that it was swapped out before the worn pivots marked the main-plate/bridges. I do have some other 5xx movement so I may swap a more appropriate one here. The balance bridge is also the same hue of the rotor but I don't think I'll mess with it for now. cheers! Anil
  6. Omega 620 Complete Service I'm servicing a nice vintage Omega DeVille for a friend at work, and I promised her I'd post a walkthough of the service online so she could see the progress. It's an old 2 hand mechanical, which is rare to find in the DeVille range these days, and it has nice patina on the Dial. Along with the service to the movement, it will need a new leather strap, as the original one has succumb to age. I'm glad that the glass is in good condition, as replicating it would be an endeavour to say the least; and fitting a standard flat glass would take away from the elegance of this timepiece. It's only fitted with a dust-proof snap back, so I was expecting to see the normal amounts of corrosion on the stem, and keyless work. But I was pleasantly surprised to find virtually no corrosion on the stem or movement. So this watch has definitely been well looked after, and from the markings inside the Caseback it has also seen it's share of trips to the watchmaker for servicing in it's lifetime. From my initial inspection the first issue I noted was a suspected broken Mainspring, as the Crown spun freely whilst in the winding position with no resistance felt against the Click. Now the watch is open, and can see there is damage to the Crown Wheel and Ratchet Wheel, I am even more confident my first thoughts were correct; but I'll know for sure when I open the Barrel. There are also a couple of fibres inside the case. You can see one here resting on the incabloc setting of the Balance. So a good clean and service, along with a new Mainspring, should see this little 620 movement running nicely for my work colleague. I don't have time to strip the movement and remove the Barrel until the weekend. But in the meantime I will get pre-approval for the purchase of a new Mainspring from the owner, so once I've removed the Barrel and confirmed it's broken I can place the order. Is the Mainspring truly broken? Will the owner agree to spring for a new Mainspring? Does Mark enjoy wearing 70's disco outfits at that Retro Nights more than he lets on? All these questions and more will be answered in the next episode!! So stay tuned .... same Watch Time, same Watch Channel!!
  7. Hello all, I am restoring an old Omega Geneve with Cal 601 and while I was disassembling the movement I neglected to note the position of the 'pressure spring for sweep seconds pinion' against the leaves of the actual pinion itself. Should the spring provide pressure to the pinion against the pinion cock (underneath the leaves) or shall it be positioned providing pressure against the top of the leaves (between the cock and the leaves) so to push the pinion towards the watch dial? Any clarification would be appreciated. Thank You
  8. Hello all, I reside in Holland, but originate from London. Hit my mid 40's and became a watch-nut - go figure? I think the main reason is that, as hobbies go, Horology can be hidden nicely away from my wife's eye's. She currently thinks I am saving up for an Omega Seamaster - and doesn't realise it is already stashed safely away in my watch box! Happy days!!! Regards, Dutch.
  9. The watch is an Omega cal.601 from 1969 and I bought it about a half a year ago. The watch had this weird sound in between the pallet forks ticks, sounds a bit like a metall releasing tension, witch made me thinking its either the mainspring or the hairspring. I've now disassembled the watch, cleaned all the parts, replaced the mainspring, oiled the jewels and put it back together. I noticed that the hairspring sounded quite a lot then I tried spinning it without the escapement in place, do you guys think the sound comes from the hairspring? Can I correct it or must I buy a new one? clock tick.mp3
  10. Hi People :) I have an short Question maybe someone can help me out? I am here with an Omega 1138 Despair :) Ok let me Explain the Problem... I have Service the Complete Movement... The Base Movement Runs nice and Strong now... But the Added DD Modul that are on is the little prob... All at the DD Modul is Working Fine only one thing not... When you Start the Chrono and Stop them and Press then Reset the Chrono Hand didn´t Move to the 12 I mean if you Reset them the First Time it Reset at 12 if you Reset Second Time it Reset to 12:01 if you reset again it Stops it Reset to 12:04 for exsample... When i Move the Chronohand Freely without Press Start/Stop and i Reset them they Reset always Perfect to 12 Could it be that the Chronograph Wheel is Bad? i have check them... I can´t see any Damage on it... And the Gear self Rotate. Second thinking was the Clutch Wheel i have check them too and seems also ok. Or could it maybe the Clutch Spring ?!?? I hope someone have an idea!?!? ;) Many Thanks...
  11. Hi all, I'm new to the forum and am sure I'll be learning a lot. I recently purchased an old Omega Seamaster from a well known auction site. I took a bit of a gamble, it looked in a right old state with a cracked crystal, broken bracelet, covered in crud and with a slightly pitted dial. The reason I purchased it was I have never owned an Omega and always wanted an older style that could be restored. This one looked as if it had never or hardly ever been opened, and thus serviced. It has a 562 movement housed in a 166.003 case and with a crosshair dial. In taking the back off, the gasket was an off white colour and as hard as rock, it must have been the original. The movement initially looked to be clean but the rotor does need attention - to be expected I suppose as the watch is from 1966 according to the serial number. I've removed the old gasket, the easiest way was to pop out the crystal first, just used my thumbs for that, then I warmed up the case in hot water for about ten minutes, this softened the gasket enough to insert an old screwdriver to carefully remove the gasket in sections. I removed the steel bezel using a razor blade and gently pushing the blade between the bezel and case and using a rotating action, it popped off nicely. Lots of crud under that. I've given the case an ultrasonic clean and light polish ready to receive a new crystal. My question is this: I have sourced from Cousins a new crystal, PZ1543L, for the 166.003 case. Is this to be inserted with a press tool or by using the crystal lift/insert type?
  12. Hi everyone :) My very first post here on WRT and im hoping some of you clever chaps out there can help with a few things. I have an Omega pocket watch ( well actually its wristwatch size but pocket watch movement ) which im currently stuck trying to repair, the issue is not whether its fixable ( luckily ) but rather which caliber it is. I need to order a stem that will fit the watch but it is proving difficult as without a clue to the exact caliber i can not reference the right stem. I can provide photos if needed but the movement is just like a scaled down version of the 40.6 Omega that is well known to most in the business. To give a better idea the movement size is below ( measured with Vernier ). 15 Jewel Lever Escapement ( Dated 1915 ) Inner Diameter - 26.00mm Outer Diameter - 26.90mm The watch it belongs to is a WWII ? officers trench style watch. I have tried various similar omega pw stems with some success ( a cal 38.5 stem was closest ), but im still perplexed as to what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated :) Also does anyone know of a book or somewhere online with good info on Omega pocket watch calibers ? ( i love restoring them but don't always know which cal they are :( ) Thanks in advance for any answers MrBeat
  13. Just uploaded my new video - didn't plan this one, just a bit of fun. It's an Omega strip down and the watch came alive ! :D
  14. Just uploaded a new video. This one is one of my favourites, an Omega Military watch from the mid to late 40s. It had a broken balance staff, impulse jewel and the pivot on the centre wheel had a groove worn into it. I didn't film the lathe work but managed to get quite a bit under the camera. I hope it's useful to someone. Some pics:
  15. Hello all, With my success (through this forum's help) on my classic Rado, I've decided to try another battery replacement on what I believe is a more complicated watch. I've not worn this watch for decades due to outrageous price for battery replacement. However, with this forum I hope I can get some help on how to do this properly. There are four screws on each corner of the backing. I believe the screws are holding the top case with the glass or crystal thus access is through the crystal. However, if this is the case how do you remove the winder's crown to access the back of the movement? I do not believe the four screws are holding the stainless steel backing for the stainless steel backing also holds the wrist band unit. Any help is greatly appreciated. Here's a couple of pics.
  16. Hi all, If you've read my other posts you will know I'm new to watch repaires. I've just aquired an Omega Seamaster 166.003 case and seperated it into its component parts to give it an ultrasonic clean. Three parts went into the bath and four came out, the fourth being a flexible metalised ring, it looks like a metalised plastic of some sort. It isn't the case back gasket because I'd already removed it. The only place it fits is the movement clamp groove. What is it for? Photo attached I'm restoring another Seamaster which has the same casing and a 562 cal movement, and there was not a similar ring in that one.
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