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  1. Hi guys, Was wondering if you could help identify this movement. It has rusted and needs replacing! Unfortunately, there is no codes on it. It looks very similar to a Rotary I have, but looks a little wider. Kind regards, Alan.
  2. I have dissembled, cleaned and reassembled my first movement—an ETA 980.163. With my lack of experience it took me about a month working off and on. It’s hard to appreciate just how small the parts are until one has to try to handle them and place them in the movement. Anyway, I assembled the watch and it runs (for now) I tried to be careful about keeping everything clean but I may have introduced more dirt than I cleaned out of the components/movement.I had a question about the order of reassembly. I used the ETA Technical Communication guide to assist me in remembering where the components went as well as the order of how to assemble them. When assembling the train wheels I followed the “order of assembly” and discovered that assembly of two of the train wheels seems to be out of the correct order. I have pictures and screen shots from the guide for reference (I used an ETA 980.153 because I found pictures of the movement online—it’s basically the same as the 980.163. Here is the link to the ETA 980.153 guide.The order of assembly calls for the second wheel (19) then the third wheel (20) followed by the intermediate wheel (21) in that order. If this order is followed 20 is placed between 21 and 19. This causes two problems: 1) the small gear on 21 will not engage wheel 19 because it’s too high, and 2) the pivot on 21 is too high when trying to place the train bridge. The image shows the correct assembly and is as follows: the rotor (12) drives 21 which drives 19 (via the small gear not visible--under 21) then 19 drives 20. The assembly drawing clearly shows the wrong order for these wheels to engage correctly. I struggled for weeks trying to assemble it according to the ETA guide. Once I stopped doing that and actually looked at how the wheels engage I saw that the correct order of assembly is 19 – then 21 and finally 20. If I’m an idiot, or my lack of experience was causing my problem please tell me. The bottom line is that the movement runs (all the hands are going round and round as expected). Watch has been running for about 2 months now. For Reference19 second wheel20 third wheel21 intermediate wheel12 rotor
  3. Evening all. Would anyone be able to tell me if the ratchet wheel from the Omega 2500c and the ETA 2892.A2 are the same? i've been having a look at cousins and the part for the Omega 2500c seems to be coming up as - Ratchet Wheel, Frederik Piquet 0021 31.020 priced at just over £14. However the Omega 2500c is based on the ETA 2892.A2 and the ratchet wheel for that is - Ratchet Wheel ( 415 ), ETA 2890 priced at £8.95 Its the Co-axial Movement. Thanks for any advice.
  4. I am in the process of reassembling my 2893-1 - see the previous (part 1) post for disassembly instructions, etc. I will post pics when complete. But I have hit a bit of a snag. I have discovered that the fourth wheel is not seated properly on its post - it is slanted which causes it to wobble in the train. I am struggling a bit to try and find the correct combination of stake and stump to repair this. I have managed to improve it, but not enough. Here is a pic from the disassembly thread that shows the construction. It's the wheel on the bottom. If you zoom in you can see that it is pressed onto the pinion. Curious if others have preferred techniques for dealing with this.
  5. Hi, As I said I need more practice and I found an ETA 2369 in my collection of potential patients that is not running. This is what I found, before I took off the hands and dial (sorry, no photo of that state): The keyless work is strangely not functioning. I can pull the crown, it does "click" but it's stuck in setting mode (like if the crown was pulled) If I wind it by using the screw of the ratchet wheel it does not start ticking. The first thing I did was: Demagnetize Remove the hands and dial Take pictures of the movement from both sides I will continue in a fast pace now since I already disassembled everything and present the pictures now. Cheers Alexander
  6. ETA Caliber 2540 Complete Service Walkthrough Looking for more movements that would expand my training scope. I found this one on the Fleabay: an ETA 2540. It's a "New Old Stock (NOS)" replacement movement, therefore it's not cased, and came with no hands. As there are many ladies watches, especially vintage ones, that are very small, this was my next obvious choice of movement to work on. As you can see next to my thumb nail, it's quite a small and compact movement indeed. Disassembly First remove the Hour Wheel, and leave the tension spring in place. Remove the Minute Wheel, Canon Pinion with Drive Wheel, and the Winding Pinion. The Canon Pinion on this movement isn't the standard fiction fit, it is a "Circlip" type fitting with the Driving Wheel. Therefore no pinion puller is required on this movement. Below is a reference photo. The motion work is now removed, so it's time to turn the movement over. With the Movement turned over, release all tension from the Mainspring. Remove the Balance. Remove the Pallet Cock and Fork. Remove the Crown Wheel and Ratchet. Remove the Click and Click Spring, then the Barrel Bridge. Here is a reference Photo of the Click Spring. Remove the Train Bridge. Remove the Second Wheel, Third Wheel, Intermediate Wheel, Escape Wheel and lastly the Barrel. Finally turn the movement back over, and complete the disassembly by removing the Keyless Work. Remove the Setting Lever Spring. Remove the Yoke Spring and then the Yoke. Then remove the flip the movement over and unscrew the Setting Lever Screw. Pull the Stem out and the Clutch Wheel and Winding Pinion will fall out. Here is a reference photo of the Yoke Spring. Disassembly is now complete.
  7. I've scoured the usual sources, including the ETA Customer Service site, but I can't seem to find a cross reference for the dial feet locations on an ETA 2783 compared with the 2824 or 2836 movements. Many aftermarket dials are advertised as fitting these latter movements and if I can determine whether the location and diameter of their dial holes match my 2783, then I'm sure to succeed with an aftermarket dial. The dial feet holes on the 2783 are at (eye-balling) 11 minutes and 41 minutes, and center-to-center diameter of 24.0mm. Any suggestions for a data source? Anyone have a 2824 or 2836 sitting on their bench and their calipers close at hand and bounce me a reply with a measurement as above? Thanks as always.
  8. Morning peeps, I have this watch where the month that does change automatically. it will quick change via the button. I believe the speciation's are as below. can anybody shed any light on the calendar module and if it actually should change automatically?? ETA 2824-2 base + a Jaquet 3105 calendar module Cheers always. James.
  9. Hi All, I'm working on an old Heuer with a 555.115 movement in it. I am able to advance the calendar wheel when the crown is in position 2, but the calendars does not change automatically when the watch hits midnight (or ever). I've tried both letting the watch run for 48 hours, as well as just swinging the arms for a full 24 hour cycle with the crown. Does anyone have any insight on this issue? Thanks!
  10. Good Day Everyone, I am a new member to Watch Repair Talk and a new horological hobbyist tackling my own personal repairs as needed. I have been tinkering with watches for a few years on my free time starting with non-function pieces I picked up from swap meets, garage sales, estate sales, etc. with successes or understanding of complications and how they work together. Recently one of my personal time pieces (a prized possession of mine) was due for service, an Omega 1164 (ETA7750i) Calibre Seamaster Professional. After seeing the costs for servicing from various places, I subscribed to Mark's YouTube Channel and decided to tackle the task myself spending the equal money for a repair on "proper" tools and lubricants to complete the task and I DID IT (Thank you Mark for your amazing videos, I couldn't do it with you!)! After much pride and bragging among family and friends that cared to listen I kind of became the go to for battery replacements on quartz movements and band replacements. Recently a very good friend of mine came to me with a damaged timepiece that was more a user error issue and asked me if I would be willing to take on the task, and like a junkie or addict I jumped to the opportunity. The piece in question is a Bell & Ross Military Type 123 (ETA 2895-2). The time piece had a run in with a door jam and had the crown and stem pulled from the timepiece with such force that it firmly pulled the screw down attachment for the crown from the case (please forgive me if I am not using the appropriate terminology). My first thought was with that much force there must be damage within the movement, so I began the disassembly. I manged to get it apart and cleaned and started the assembly but immediately ran in to a problem. The gear train assembly is jamming when I put the movement together. I worked to gently tease the pinions in place and have had them seated in their bridge but they bind up? I have seen the videos for ETA 2892 that Mark has posted and understand the care of working with the second wheel, third wheel, and escapement. the trouble I am having is the moment I place the escapement pinion in place under the bridge the second and third wheel seize up. The second and third wheel will rotate freely but then they both stop when the escapement is in position. The movement itself is strange to me with the elongated pinion on the escapement that passes through the main plate to a jewel on the underside floating above the plate? I hope that this question makes sense to the more experienced and that they may be able to shine some light on my problem, I have checked the wheels and all of the pinions appear to be in tact. Thank you everyone for your feedback and support. I worked 2 days after work on it for a total of about 4 hours which is crazy for 3 gears and a small bridge...I am at a loss.
  11. Tissot T063.637.16.057 (ETA G15.561): It is possible to calibrate the date change moment? I've tested 3 watches, and they all had problem with date change moment: 1) 22:40, 2) 23:47, 3) 23:54. But other users report that they have date change exactly at 00:00, so may be it is possible to calibrate the moment when the date is changed?
  12. Just wonderd what your views were on this? For anyone not knowing, ETA announced a while back they are stopping the sale of all spare parts on December 31st 2015. After this date only Authorised service centres will b able to get them, so once cousins, boley etc supplies have been exhausted we will no longer be able to get them, meaning the customer has to pay extortiate prices. What do you think?
  13. Just uploaded a new four part series on the Omega Seamaster Co-Axial (with a 2500 movement). This is about 1 hour long so I have split it into four parts. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwP8fNxqhOvPfgwFF1qHaERl5DuZ-zXqA
  14. I am looking to practice overhauling ETA2824. I am just wondering where could I source 2824 movement or its equivalent clone for practice? Thanks Ferdinand
  15. What do you think about ETA 2842 automatic movoment?Which are pros and cons?
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