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Mr0ldschool

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  1. That screw in the outside end of the other spring is a slotted screw and it is not budging. Not having much luck with anything in this operation... Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
  2. In the first picture, I've circled the "peg". It has no ability to hold down the end of the spring, shown in picture 4, when it has a few turns on it. It simply lifts off. The second picture is a closeup of what looks to me like a tiny slotted screw holding down the other spring. The barrel in the first picture also has two holes that I will show in subsequent pictures, which look like either previous mounting places, or potential ones. I'm open to suggestions about the best way to proceed. Does anyone sell the type of screw that would do this job? Would an "S" type spring hold i
  3. Looking at the other thread, it looks like what you're saying is that the winding arbor is threaded onto the inner arbor, and both sides do have square shapes which seem to support the notion. Unfortunately I don't have anything small enough to safely grip the tiny inner arbor. I was able to get the mainspring to come out, however, by unseating it from the peg that it is held by on the arbor and then gently letting it out until it was fully unwound. It is a basic spiral mainspring. The inside of the barrel only has pegs to hold both ends. The other barrel seems like it has a t shaped peg or
  4. I post on numerous message boards with Tapatalk and it doesn't do that on anu other ones, so I'm disinclined to think that is the problem. I will have to dig into the settings to see if I can find an answer. And to answer your question, no "suspended barrel" does not sound familiar. Thank you for pointing it out, but expecting me to know the terms I'm looking for before asking what they are is putting the cart before the horse. I'm just learning this new hobby. Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
  5. I don't know why the forum is putting up links instead of just displaying my picture, but they appear to be working now. In all pictures, the newly acquired movement is on the left and the first movement is on the right. Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
  6. Here are the arbors on the bridge side. There had been a piece that covered the arbor wheel and was held down with four tiny screws. Removing it didn't have any change in the bond between the arbor and the barrel, and in fact only one movement still possessed it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200922/9db4f75f8d7b32f0704d910279f1adce.jpg Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
  7. Here are the barrels opened up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200922/f1e953b326e0bff4b07a03e60321fba8.jpg Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
  8. Here are the two movements side by side.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200922/6ebfc7317f4374f097b9627561f21630.jpg Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
  9. I tried to post pictures, and now I see they aren't there. I will try this again... Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk
  10. I have a pair of nearly identical Swiss movements from a company called LD Seine from Locle. Owing to the lack of any information to be found, I consider them members of the enormous body of generic Swiss watches. Since they are both key wind, key set, I'm inclined to think they date to somewhere in the vicinity of the 1860's, but I'm no expert. They actually both keep pretty good time, but I only have one good case between them. They do both have issues though. The first one I bought needs to be fully taken down and lubed. It will keep good time for a few hours then just stop. If you restart
  11. Wow, nice to meet you! I don't consider myself a fop (never been fond of the notion) but some people probably think I am. I just go with the idea that 1) I work in a professional environment so I should dress that way, 2) they knew how to make professional looking clothes much better 70 years ago than they do now, and 3) I just look better in my vintage tweed jacket than in a modern sloppy looking suit coat or casual clothes. Unfortunately, everyone's dress code has slipped a bit this year, even mine... I haven't been able to afford a Boker yet, but I do have a Joseph Rodgers that I am very f
  12. I just found this community and I'm hopeful that I will be able to find answers to some challenges I'm running into while attempting to learn how to service my old pocket watches. I presently have a New York Standard 7 jewel open face probably dating from the 20's and a pair of nearly identical L D Seine hunter case "full jeweled" watches that are something like a size 20. I bought the second one to have spare parts for the first one, being that I have only ever seen these two of this type of watch. The LD's are key wind key set and I'm guessing they date to the 1860's or earlier, but w
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