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Everything posted by gkmaia

  1. Nice post. i am restoring one and was very helpful to find the crystal part number. If it weird I can't seem to find model numbers in any of them. Pain to find parts this way.
  2. It is just a 1500grit sand paper glued with double side tape.
  3. What is used to fill the black numbers and graphs on the bezel? Is it just black paint? I've Nekkid on youtube use black epoxy. Or is there a proper paint for that?
  4. Sharpening the edges on my Mark II gold case. Made a lapping collet out of brass. And 3D printed an angle base. Seems to work!
  5. I am fixing my Seiko Yatch. It got a mode staff pivot broken. So I made a new one out of All Purpose Watch Repair Wire Steel from esselinger. I also have the blue steel wires as well but decided not to use it. Have I made the wrong decision? Should have done with blue steel? Is there a way to harden the one I did? Should I try heating it with leather charcoal to inject carbon and then temper? Will that work?
  6. I messed it up. I managed to make a 0.1mm hole and was perfect. Just had to insert the pinion. Then I had the brilliant idea to expand the hole to 0.2mm so I could have a stronger base for the pivot... but the drill bit broke inside... so sad. I almost managed to do it. I think moving forward I will start with a 0.2mm bit, the 0.1mm is a bit overkill.
  7. No I did not. And it would have made a good difference. Because it was quite hard comparing to others pivots I drilled as a pre practice. What would be annealing the temperature of that shaft?
  8. Finally managed to successfully drill a 0.1mm hole to fix my omegas staff lower pivot! Now got to make the little pivot and lock it in. I am wondering if I should have actually made the hole 0.2
  9. I finally took action to fix my Formula 1 Haikonen bumpers. I keep thinking how Tag could put plastic outside the watch? And on a Formula 1? The perfect everyday watch? Well I imagine some people wont agree with me on that... I removed the broken ones and that rubber was just so dry and broke like chalk. Had to try so many prototypes till I could get the perfect fit. The resin 3d printer is just amazing the amount of detail you can get at home. Also the rubber resin worked perfectly for this one. I could sell those on Ebay as I imagine there are a big number of Formula Tag ow
  10. Thanks John. So I bought the BestFIT license. Now I am trying to source a rotor for a OME 1336 and I get the best fit number X/9883 and I cannot find an onlinestore that takes orders by bestfit number. Do you know any? Or maybe the sole purpose of the BestFIT is to help you find equivalent parts and that is it.
  11. I am trying to fix a Seiko V600. The fifth wheel has a broken pinion. I cant find the part which is 701012 anywhere. So that got me thinking if Seiko did use some of the wheels across different movements. Or if every new movement they designed they also designed a whole new set of wheels?1 is it the case? V600A.pdf
  12. So after 5 months I managed to have 3 working and restored wingmans. Got all three. The gold, the silver and the black one. Original straps, same from the catalogue. If you look closer the black one has black buttons. So those black buttons have been 3d printed in resin and they look really cool. Pretty close to OEM. The black one still need the bezel's insert. And for the silver one that is not in the photos still polishing the glass. The last thing I need to do in all them after that is just a case back gasket as none of them passed the pressure test. The black one was
  13. I could manage to get it plated but not very good. But still better than it was before. The main issue was that I had to sand way to many times the case to remove the plaiting failures. So unfortunately most of the sharpness of the case was lost... :^( After the fist sanding I managed to get the sides levelled, seams pretty small and sharp, but it was all lost by trying to get the plating to stick. :^( The top ring is brass so the plating was perfect. The back case was stainless. Did not go so well because I did not have the stainless activator. I did one layer of copper p
  14. I am trying to restore a watch that is the same as the bellow one and I am struggling heaps to plate it's case with nickel. First I thought it was something wrong with my setup, pickle, contamination, voltage/amperage, etc... but does not seem likely as other brass and stainless parts plated perfectly both in copper or Nickel or gold. If I try to plate nickel directly it just peels, blister and streak. No matter voltage and amperage. So I made a copper base but it is not coming out clean. Has blisters, dark spots. It made me thing that the case must have some zinc in it. When I
  15. That is great. The 7730 looks much as my one. Thanks so much. Very helpful.
  16. i got to get a few parts for a venus 188 and the only catalogue I found had part numbers just for the chronograph bits. https://reference.grail-watch.com/family/venus-188/ Do any one know if there is a chart with all the other parts numbered? Maybe the 188 is derived from another caliber that has this complete catalogue? anyone knows?
  17. I start with 3000 grit till all deep scratches are removed. Then on a 90 degree angle I move to 5000 grit. Then 90 degree angle move to 7000 grit. Always straight movements and good cleaning between grits. Also checking in the microscope if any 90 degree scratches are left from previous grit. Then a good clean on ultrasonic, distilled water and alcohol before the polishing. My paste is made of Bergeon fine diamond powder and the same basic machine oil I use on my old lorch lathe. But the consistency is more wetter than fry. I find easier to use just Pith Wood instead of
  18. Thanks, that was spot on. Before reading your answer I had another go with a wood block. First I had a go with one of those wood cuts you get from a hardware store. Quite soft and I got way less scratches, but still not as good a silicone sheet I tried before. Then went to try on a piece of a tree I did cut a couple years ago. Really hard wood and I got only 3 small scratches!!!! Was such a massive improvement. Exactly as you wrote Hector. I think if I had an extremely pure zinc block with no internal blisters or sludge it would maybe do... but not sure where I could find one...
  19. I got a zinc block from https://martyranodes.com/about-us/ and the bergeon fine diamond powder and oil. When polishing a screw head I am getting a specular polish that I am happy with. But when polishing plates I am getting lots of scratches. I suspected the zinc block was filled with impurities so I removed around 2mm of it's top with a file. Did not use a sand paper cause I did not want to leave any carbide incrusted on the zinc. Gave it a good clean then wiped with alcohol. And before polishing the plate I gave it a good scrub with proper degreaser. Then an ultrasonic b
  20. I am trying to figure out the hand hole sizes of an ETA251.262. On Boley they describe the hand set as 1.50x2.00x0.30/0,20 Hours = 2.0mm Minutes = 1.5mm Chrono seconds = ? Chrono minutes = ? Small hands = ? Could someone help me read this?
  21. Do anyone know if its possible to upgrade a lemania 320 movement to a 321 and add the 3rd chrono hand?
  22. Finally! Got one of the working after 3 or 4 months?! Had to fix the coil otherwise another month till a new one arrives. Coil is at 1.1k and spec is 1.2k - 1.6k but it is still moving fine.
  23. Thanks! What I truly want now is to rewind the coils. I got the tools to wind inductors, just don't have the right wire gauge for these coils. Seems something like 50AWG and it is hard to find here in New Zealand.
  24. It worked!!!! I am so F***** dumb! The thing really needs a working coil to work. Now I need to buy coils.
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