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Bill3

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Everything posted by Bill3

  1. That last word should be "projection". Apologies for my poor spelling.
  2. Instead of an actual hook this barrel has a tiny V punches into the inside of the barrel. The spring will initially catch on it, but a soon as pressure developed it slides over the progectin.
  3. I an replacing the mainspring in aBenrus pocket watch. All went well until I wound the watch, then the hole in the end of the spring that is supposed to catch on the small hook on the wall of the barrel slipped. It seems that the hook has worn a bit and will not hang onto the end of the spring. The hook on the spring arbor works well. Is there a way that I can augment that little projection on the wall of the barrel so that it will hang onto the spring? Thanks in advance!
  4. Thank you Old Hippy and Gordi!! The tool I have is very similar to the one on the Ebay site that Old Hippy posted. I really appreciate the help.
  5. I purchased a large box of "junk" from the widow of a watch repairman who died several years ago. Among the things in the box, I found the tool pictured below. Can anyone tell me what it is and what it is used from? I apologize for not including something for size comparison in the pictures. To give you an idea of size, the box that this instrument is in measures about 4" X 3".
  6. StuartBaker104, Thank you for your interest. Yes, I tightened the screw on the other side of the movement that holds the setting lever. I am leaning toward the second of the two issues that you mentioned as possible causes of the stem not staying in. I do not think it is a worn lever because it was working well just a few days ago and was working well after one of the many attempts I have made to reassemble the watch. That leaves your second issue "something is stopping the lever from sitting down properly." I have peered at it with various magnifications, pulled the stem up an
  7. Anil, you are absolutely right! The yoke needed to be flipped. Once I took everything in the winding mechanism out and reinstalled all the parts, the yoke fit perfectly into the notch on the stem. However, in this new configuration there are other problems. The stem can be pulled out easily and the last gear on the stem cannot be lifted off the wheel that permits setting the time. It seems that the piece, marked by the tip of my tweezers in the picture, Des not fit deeply enough in the outermost notch in the stem to hold the stem in place. It engages slightly, but releases under sl
  8. AnilV and Vinn3, Thank you very much for your help with the problem I am having with my Bulova pocket watch. Please accept my apology for the long delay in offering this thanks, but I have been struggling with reassembly for several days and I wanted to have some progress to show before I responded. I have the watch back together, approximately as you indicated. I can turn the hands and wind the spring. There is a distinct click as the stem moves into each of these spaces. There is one problem. If I pull very hard on the crown, the stem comes out. In the picture below, you ca
  9. I have a problem with a Bulova pocket watch. The watch was running, but losing a few minutes every day. I opened the case to see if it was dirty or if there was an obvious reason for running slow. I did not see any problems, but I took the stem out. When I started to replace the stem a piece of the winding mechanism seemed to leap out of the movement and sail away. I think it was propelled by a spring. It took several hours, but I found the piece on the floor. Now for the problem. I cannot get the piece back in. I have rotated it into several orientations and tried to find a peg
  10. Thank you for your answer to my post. Yes, it has a level built in. It is a "Favorite"brand. I have searched the web for the brand name and have found the poising tool, but nothing about changing jaws. Bill
  11. A few days ago I was in an antique shop and on a dark and dusty shelf I found a poising tool. The dealer had no idea what it was and sold it to me for $5.00. I thought it was a good deal until I got home and examined it carefully. The first picture is the tool, still in the box, the second is the tool on my desk, and then a picture of the jaws. Notice that the red (ruby ?) jaws are deeply chipped. My question is, can this be repaired? I have searched the web for "poising tool jaws" and similar searches and have found nothing. Perhaps someone on this forum can share some knowledge
  12. Make no mistake, I have never tried synthetic motor oil on a watch. I posted about it because I thought it was so novel and curious. I would like to hear the experience of others who have tried it.
  13. Don't take this answer to your serious question too seriously, but I read somewhere on the web about using DW10 synthetic motor oil on watches. I have not done it, but that seemed so curious that I thought I would mention it to this learned body to generate discussion. In the same discussion it was said that a watch oil sold on EBay under the name "Liberty" was in fact synthetic motor oil parceled off into small containers. No flames please, I mention it here to see what others have heard about this unusual practice.
  14. Old Hippy,

    i am not at all sure that you have been receiving my email messages.  There have been many problems, I tried to send a message as a direct reply to your message, I have been out of town using a poor WiFi connection, too large message, etc.  However, I am interested in pursuing bushing replacement on that Ansonia clock.  

    I have bought a metal lathe and have ordered an assortment of bushings.  

    If you can give me a little help it would be greatly appreciated. If not that is OK also, I certainly understand.  

    Best regards,

    Bill <[email protected]>

     

  15. OldHippy, I gratefully accept your offer of help. I have looked on EBay for a Unimat3 and only see one. The starting bid is $750.00. I am looking for a used one. I have been looking at watchmaker's lathes for months now, but the Unimat3 does not look like the others I have seen. It looks more robust and heavy. As for the clock to start on, the one I have is the only one I have at the present time. I will look around and see if I can locate one with enclosed springs. Best regards, Bill
  16. Well, fellow clock enthusiast it looks as if this clock is not going to be fixed. I dislike seeing a beautiful clock leave the land of the working. I have read all the good advise in the replies to my post and have done further reading on the major problems this clock has. The bushings are worn and they have wallowed out larger holes in the clock plates. Replacing bushings looks like a very difficult job, but one that could yield some satisfaction if completed. I would like to have a go at rebushing this clock, or at least read and learn more about it. Since this clock is not going to wo
  17. Anil, when the watch stops a single push of the pendulum starts it running again for 15 to 20 minutes. I have looked and did not see a bent wheel. I had not thought of the chimes as a cause of the problem. I will try to lift the chime mechanism out of the clock motion. I will also take a closer look at the area where the barrel rotates around the arbor. Thank you for these suggestions. Bill
  18. Old Hippy, I re-read your first email and saw that you wanted to see a photo of the mark. While photographing the A I noticed that there is something scratched into the metal plate under the other winding arbor. It looks like a 3. Pics of both are attached.
  19. You are right! There is a capital A stamped into the plate. In regard to the label inside the case, I am posting an image of it that I made by shining a light on it and placing my cell phone into the case. Now that I look at the picture, I think I see a capital A on the label also.
  20. A few days ago I bought a clock at a flea market. The owner knew nothing about it, but said that he thought it was made in the USA in the 1920s. The clock has no bezel, dial, or pendulum. The seller gave me a pendulum which he said was from another clock. When I got it home, I mounted and leveled it and discovered that it would run for 60 to 90 seconds. I removed the movement from the case, soaked the movement in cleaner and after drying oiled all the pivots and the springs with clock oil. Then I hung and leveled the movement and it will run for approximately 15 to 20 minutes. There are
  21. Vinn3, Thank you for your interest. That clock is still running and after some minor adjustments to the pendulum, it keeps very goog time. The only thing more amazing than that clock starting to run was the friendly reception I received on this forum and the incredible help I was offered. Seeing the clock start to run was like seeing a heart start to beat, life returning to the movement. It was exciting. I have caught the bug! In fact I have been reading books about clock repair and have bought another clock. I have been working on this one and as soon as I can make some dece
  22. Steve, it is encouraging to hear that I am not the only person to try unusual approaches to problems, like rodico to hold the pallet in place. Your advice is appreciated.
  23. Novel idea! When I get this watch out again I will try it. I have to finish the watch on my desk first. I never even considered turning the watch upside down.
  24. Marc, I have read the thread on movement holders and it was very helpful.
  25. Vinn3, I plan to follow the of DJT2 which I assume you are referring to. While doing that I will remove the stem, but this beginner has a question. I do have a movement holder and will use it during this undertaking, but why is it important to have a "good" movement holder? Does the quality of the movement holder influence the results? Curious minds want to know. Maybe curious minds other than mine want to know. Thanks for your help.
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