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About pubudeux

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  1. Thanks for your reply. Yea for some reason the crown on the claw side caused a ton of noise. It could be a quirk with the design of the 6309/casings as it happened on another similar Seiko as well. I think the cap jewel fix I did improved amplitude about 10-20 degrees on average, but not sure. Now it is "settled in" at about 220 amplitude even after running for 12 hrs plus. Not the best but not too bad I don't think. I lubricated the mainspring like so: 1) run watchpaper with tweezers to get gunk off 2) watchpaper with tweezers dipped in iso to clean 3) dry watchpaper 4) watchpaper with 9010 5) dry watchpaper I just didnt get alll the gunk off from the entire mainspring I greased the barrel by applying 8301 to the walls at 4-5 points around the circumference, making sure not to get any on the top of the barrel To your point about the escapement: I did get a little trigger happy with lubing the pallet jewels. I'm going to take care to be more restrained in my next service. I also will have a closer look at the mechanics of swiss lever escapement to find the precise friction points. I kind of just slathered it on the ends of the jewels imprecisely.
  2. Hey all, Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. To begin, I took out, wiped off oil with Rodico and re-lubricated cap jewel, making sure to lubricate the flat side, which would contact the pivot. I then set it and took care make sure the spring was secured in place. Here are the readings: Pendant Down: Dial Down: Dial Up: Pendant Up: So I know there is low amplitude, but it does seem like the escapement itself is working decently well. I wound the watch by winding the ratchet wheel with a screwdriver. I think the weird readings were caused by my positioning of the cased watch on the timegrapher, as when I have the crown facing right, the readings come out dirty, and when facing left (away from spring handle as pictured), the readings come out clean. Pretty strange to me, but I guess there was some kind of interference or shaking with the crown? I think my amplitude issues might be mainspring related, as this was my first time servicing a mainspring and I definitely didn't give it the best clean possible. The positive thing is, the amplitude is about 50-70 degrees better than what it was before the overhaul
  3. This is very good to know. Since there is a 50% chance I put the wrong side facing the pivot, I will attack this first and then move on. Per the Seiko 6309 tech sheet I lubricated the shock absorber jewels and the pallet fork jewels with Moebius 9010.
  4. One thing I wasnt sure about: is there an up side and down side for these jewels or are they completely flat on both sides? I assumed i could choose one side as the "down" side to oil after cleaning. These are Seiko Diashock settings.
  5. Exactly: its one thing I wasnt too sure about when putting it in whether it was securely placed. I'll report on the results here. If its no good, I'll investigate further.
  6. I don't know if I trust the amplitude reading on that timegrapher when the reading is so dirty. Just like the beat error shows as ~5 ms, when it is clearly around .1-.2ms as evidenced by the DD reading.
  7. Pendent up and down is "in between" these two kind of. Much better than the dial up reading. I'll start with trying to re-set the shock absorber
  8. Hey, thanks for that. The train is running freely (with a puff of air and comes to a stop cleanly, same when barrel is installed and mainspring wound a bit) and the movement was assembled after a cleaning and visual inspection. Im trying to find out if this seems like a common issue due to one of the shock absorbers being problematic (whether it's dirt, lubrication, etc.). But from what you're saying there's nothing you see that points to that over any other issue?
  9. Hey all, Last night I completed a service of a Seiko 6309A movement. While the performance is much better now, I notice a troubling issue on the timegrapher. Here is the reading dial down: Here is the reading dial up: Because I am seeing all that noise when the watch is dial-up, I'm assuming it is something gravity-related, which makes me think it might be the shock absorber on the balance pivot. Does this make sense? Are there any other areas of the movement that might be effected like that by gravity in between two Dial Up and Dial Down?
  10. I learned how to do this from your video, thanks for that it was great. The bit about the pin vise is great, and having one really helped me in the learning process, being able to test whether the arbor was properly hooked up to the mainspring. I got a Starett pin vise for .8-1.6mm diameter, which is perfect for this purpose.
  11. Makes sense to me. I have a watch that I serviced without touching barrel and is in beat, but has some weird variations in timegrapher readings over time. The periodicity of these differences doesnt seem to match any of the wheels in the train, but I think it might be explained by a gunky mainspring. I'll test it out and see if that's the case. This seems to me to be the prime candidate for those kinds of wildly curving or seemingly random direction switches on a timegrapher reading when the beat remains regular and clean.
  12. Thanks jdm but im asking specifically how that performance impact looks in a physical sense
  13. This is a good point, but from the hobby perspective its a little difficult as I dont have a reserve of new mainsprings. I think if I was honed in on a specific type of watch and could predictably source them I, too would probably replace it every time.
  14. This is a great point. One thing I'd also love to understand are the consequences. What does it do to the performance to have a non-flat spring, for example? My thought would be that it might cause certain parts of the spring when unwinding to drag on the bottom or top of the barrel, leading to drops in amplitude over time. If that wild speculation of mine is true, it would also make me think that on the horizontal plane if the lines are not 100% curvy it wouldnt make too big of a difference when wound, as it shouldnt cause undue drag, but maybe additional friction of the spring rubbing against itself.
  15. Answering my own question: Found a really great resource that covers the logic behind different lubrication points on mainsprings, and photos and examples of all kinds of damage and situations and examples of when a replacement is warranted. https://omegaforums.net/threads/basic-watchmaking-tips-oiling-part-2-the-mainspring-barrel.71246/
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