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About KOwatch

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  1. @nickelsilver or someone else, can you describe the tools and procedure for checking screw torque in a movement? I've never seen or used a torque wrench smaller than about 20cm in length, there must be watch-delicate torque screwdrivers. When we torque bolts, it's our standard procedure to mark the bolts so we know they are torqued. Are torqued movement screws not marked because that would marr the jewelry, or because these are non-critical components, and because the customer pays for the consequences? This problem should only happen once ever, then the manufacturer puts into place
  2. Opening it up by .25 seems like a lot. I'd be looking at a broach rather than a drill. They are tapered, so you can open it up a little at a time until it fits instead of a 1-shot drill situation.
  3. Unless my wikipedia reading is incorrect, 1902 is for synthetic rubies, these would have been small red crystals. They achieved blue sapphire in 1911, again gem-sized, but not gem-quality. I really don't think they had the abilities to create watch-sized optical quality crystals until much later. Depends on the size of the watch, of course. But if it's optically clear and not tinted at all, I'd be suspicious. I'm pretty sure I've seen a photo of a watch covered by a polished natural crystal, but very old and not very clear. I suspect the advancements enabling watch crystals to be made wi
  4. Not sure when the first sapphire watch crystals became available, 1925 seems too early as the process for creating synthetic sapphires was first developed after 1910. Rolex didn't start using them for watch crystals until 1970, so if this was factory work it would predate this by 45 years. Otherwise there were watches made with natural sapphire crystals also. Must be quite the watch. Can you post a photo? Do you think the shellac was applied as a thick varnish adhesive, or flowed with heat? Seems like shellac would be a logical adhesive choice for 1925.
  5. yes, measure the old spring (length, width, height, thickness, barrel size) If you can't get the exact size, you can substitute a different spring if the critical dimensions are the same or compatible. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Ebosa_65 Mainspring: 1.50 x 9.5 x 0.11 x 290mm Either of these would be suitable: 1.50 x .11 x 280 x 8.5 Non-Automatic GR4148 1.50 x .11 x 300 x 9 Non-Automatic GR4149 Lots of posts available here on replacing springs
  6. I endorse: Never throw anything away I've got a watch with a tension ring acrylic crystal that provides a flange for the dial, and I've had some issues with the tension ring Inner Diameter because I replaced the dial. The old ring covers up some of the markings on the new dial, and the narrower-ring replacement crystal seems to leave a gap between the dial and the case. There's a few versions of the crystal from Sternkreuz with at least 2 different widths of the tension ring, the ATC (regular) and ATCB (wide). They don't seem to give exact specs on the ring IDs, but the wide version
  7. Many people do service these timex movements. They weren't really designed for it, cleaning was intended to be whole movement with the balance removed. It's definitely tricky to reassemble them, but people do it. If you want to try, there's a service manual for this model timex_m23.pdf
  8. Do you have any photos of the movement? What positions is it running fast, and how fast? How did you clean the hairspring? Did you demagnetize it?
  9. I had lots of trouble getting the crystal off my timex electric. Same deal, it's a front loader, although you can remove the back, just for battery changes. I have a cheap crystal lift, but hand tightening it wasn't sufficient. I resorted to using a work glove on one hand (after tearing up my hands) to hold the lift body, and pipe pliers on the lift handle (top) with some rubber wrapped around the lift to protect the aluminum. Really had to tighten it hard. Was not elegant, but worked. You could get the stem out from the caseback side, I'm not sure how airtright the case would be to pop t
  10. what demag tool did you used to rotate the hands? What was the procedure?
  11. There's heavy duty wheeled multilevel storage containers, essentially stacking toolboxes on a handcart. The real gems I think are the setups for film and photography stylists & makeup artists that have lots of small containers and fold out, ready to go. Look at "rolling makeup case" on ebay. Lots of different sizes and colours.
  12. There's at least two replacement module makers for the pulsars, they use the original LEDs (and quartz crystals?) but modern batteries and circuit design, so I would imagine they would have better battery life. I haven't tried either, but they look interesting. At least one of them has the option of adding a few extra functions, like the month and date display with a long keypress. https://pulsarledtime.com/Replacement-LED-Watch-Modules/ http://www.strikesandspares.eu/modpulsar.htm
  13. There's an optimal drink level: enough to get the courage to open up a watch and try something you haven't before, but not enough to compromise your abilities
  14. definitely looks like a Baumgartner! 844 seems to be missing that horseshoe shaped cutout in the main plate though. @guidovelasquez has a very good implicit point here, that the mainspring you found in the barrel isn't necessarily the correct spring for that movement. The 844 is listed with a very different mainspring than the one you describe, 1.40 x 9.0 x 0.11 x 260mm (works out to 1.40 x .11 x 260 x 8 Non-Automatic GR3696 on Cousins) which is a lot more reasonable in length than what you had (but also thicker and narrower).
  15. If you put a 1.4mm or 1.45mm width mainspring in a 1.5mm barrel, it won't make much of a difference. Technically this reduces the cross-sectional area of the spring, so you would compensate with a slightly thicker mainspring to maintain the same strength. There's calculators available online if you want to plug in the numbers. There's other factors to consider, but from your description and photos we don't have any info on the watch. It looks like a very basic unjeweled movement with a pin-lever escapement? potentially lots of friction there. On the other hand, it looks like an old steel
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