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  1. Ah, it's a G-S illustration I was thinking of, there's some photos in this thread of their setup along with some good discussion. It was their instructions I was thinking of, illustrated in the document from their H-1 and HP-5 tool, but not in the catalog edition I had on file.
  2. I have a claw tool and a lever bench press (the blue body ones). Both are low-end versions and (usually) work enough for my level. I've read about the doming presses before, where the diameter is reduced by pressing on the concave side in conjunction with pressure on the outer convex circumference. I once saw an excellent illustration of the technique from a old manual online, but now I can't even remember what that kind of press is called. I suppose I can try rigging up my current press to perform that function by using different dies. I'd like to see a link or photo for this type of press or
  3. Thanks @watchweasol. Cousinsuk domed acrylics go up in .2mm sizes, hence the issue. Going through the Sternkreuz catalog again, I'm realizing I can try a St topglass that does come in a 277 OD. For deformation I can expect in these acrylics, I had always thought .1mm was appropriate in this case, it's not enough, and .3mm is too much, so .2mm is the number. I just now re-read a tutorial where they explicitly indicate .2mm. @jdm, these domed crystals are intended to be pressure-fit based on my understanding and experiences.
  4. I replaced the acrylic crystal on a simple little ~1960s 3-hander (leBernco w/ ST1686). Crystal opening measured 27.5mm. Sternkreuz Hw 276 fits in well but will can rotate in the case with not a lot of tangential thumb pressure. Can't get Hw 278 to deform enough to get into the case with claw or press. There doesn't seem to be a Hw277 available. Should I be OK with the rotating crystal? Try adding some glue to keep it from rotating? Keep looking for a 277 sized crystal? Or crank down on the Hw278 until it goes in?
  5. 1960s vintage, No particular value. Broken mainspring replacement learner. The replacement mainspring (non-auto, st/as1686: 1.60 x .10 x 290mm x 9.0) is listed as obsolete from my supplier, next closest sizes are 2.5x the price of similar springs for some reason. So, being pound foolish and curious as I am, I'm wondering what dimensions can change, and to what effect? I've seen the formulas for calculating mainspring specs, I'm looking for an understanding of the variable interplay without graphing out all 4 variables (5 including availability and price) 1.6 width. Can't be increased
  6. oh @AndyHull, reading your 2018 posts about £4.04 I'm not sure if I'm demoralized or reinspired. It's been about a year since I've even seen a mechanical watch for sale in thrift stores here, and I think they were selling the questionable watch for $50. It's been slim pickings lately, I keep going but either nothing's coming in, or there's way more people picking them up before I get there. Still have lots to work on fortunately, but missing that rush of a hit. . . I think @Tudor might be right, I've started looking for a movement more suitable to the case, but will try the spacer
  7. Cool idea, the blocks remind me little of a crop of various Vialux day-date dials I've seen on ebay that I've been meaning to work into a project sometime.
  8. As far as I've been able to determine: There's two different systems of stem measurement, metric, and "Tap size" which is one of those traditional and strange bigger-is-smaller systems like wire gauges. Unfortunately, they also get used interchangeably, so sometimes a place that uses metric will express it as "Tap 9" when they mean 0.9mm, or both, like Cousins. If they say "mm", I'd go with that. If they say "Tap" and don't also list the size in mm, it's hard to be sure. Esslinger uses the old up-is-down Tap system as they show in their Tap size table. I tend to only buy from seller
  9. looks like your standard timex m905 movement with no spacer ring, if that's the case then you're probably looking at ballpark 35.3mm case like you'll see on the smaller easy readers. Around here they are pretty common in thrift shops (and in ebay lots), not as popular as the 38mm/40mm timexes which do get picked up. Rear snap caseback 33.2mm OD (outer flange), 31.7mm OD of the inner ring, at least on the one I have here. Movement also easily swappable from donor if that one doesn't work, 35mm-40mm (and up?) no date and date analog timexes use the m905.
  10. Both great suggestions! I might try the wire trick, I have lots of different wire thicknesses on hand from electric guitar strings that might work. The dial flange on this case is very narrow though, so the round wire might not sit on the flange and give enough height. @AndyHull I don't know why I didn't think 3d printer! I've been dropping in on 3d printing discussions in other threads, I think in my own mind dismissing them as not suitable for watches, but this would be a perfect application.
  11. Furthering the plastic shim ring idea, I'm thinking (besides that this is all a silly idea) that I might get by with a hard red gasket or a hard white crystal i-ring, which I can get in the required thickness of .8 or .9mm (respectively) at the required OD, with the red gasket having a smaller ID thus creating more of a flange for the dial. I don't really have any exposure to the hard red gaskets, so I'm hoping they are as hard as I think they are and will do the job until I can find a more suitable case for the movement (or vice versa)
  12. I'm attempting to place a 11.5''' movement into a 11.5''' case, but the case is intended for an as2066 I believe (stem height 2.86mm!) and I've got a eta2772 (2.0mm). Maybe not the best matchup, but we learn as we go. It's a funky case and an available movement. What can be done? I think a mismatch of .1 or .2 can be fudged, depending on the movement/case. If I had a tall hour wheel and hand clearance on the dial I could maybe raise the dial above the movement by .1 or .2mm by locking in the feet all the way. .85mm is some serious elevation. A shim ring of brass between the case dial
  13. I think CNC machining of watch parts is a lot more promising, there's a few people making hard-to-replace parts using these machines. Maybe if you work at a rocket lab you've got access to something that can 3dprint a useful part, I haven't seen any 3d printers that can produce anything useful micromechanically, or that holds up to a visual scrutiny like decorative parts require. Holders and jigs, absolutely. Case prototypes, or even novelty cases for old movements. I've seen a youtube video where the host was making dial prototypes, the surface was pretty messy looking though. The
  14. No problems with the stem height issue? I've been told .2mm is about the most you can fudge it, although I'm sure it would depend on the particular movement/case matchup and the length of the stem.
  15. That seems to be the movement technical documentation, which doesn't include the dial drawings. I'm looking for the similar, dial drawings for the 7733 or failing that, any of the 775xs, 773xs or a Venus 188
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