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Everything posted by Blacklab

  1. Cheers Geo. Now why-o-why-o-why didn't I think of that. Beachy Head here I c o m e splat!
  2. Tend to do the same as Geo on the Seiko barrels, but I use cheapo brass tweezers. One question though how do you let the spring down on a Smiths?: no screw to hold the tension.
  3. Give it a go, its always good for practice. If you cant get it to work see if you can find a suitable replacement movement.
  4. From the little info I can find they were first produced in 1974, the one you have puts as a September 1975 model. Parts list Seiko 41A.pdf more parts are listed here: http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_CS^4100-6007
  5. Had the same problem in the past even after de-magging, turned out to be contamination as Geo said, even though I had degreased it. Solved it by squirting lighter fluid straight out the can over the balance as a final rinse. I now do this as a matter of course & haven't had any problems since.
  6. It was a good match to the handling, braking & tyres of the time though.
  7. We are the Borg, you will be assimilated...... Welcome by the way & really like clock 3.
  8. A lot of the compounds leave a waxy film & normally require further hand polishing to remove the residue. On stainless steel I use a Dremel with hard felt mop & blue colour final finishing compound, finishing off with a pink colour Selvyt silver cloth. The hard felt mop used carefully will keep the edges sharp. On silver I just use the Selvyt silver cloth & on gold & gold plate I use a bugundy colour Selvyt gold cloth
  9. Excellent work Mark. Bet the next ones the same, it always goes in threes.
  10. Nice work, great to see another old banger restored to its former glory. It does again highlight the main weak spot in Seiko autos - the winding system. Simple & effective design, unfortunately cut short by poor or non existent servicing. If its not the ratchet and/or the pawl it will be the oscillating weight bearing.
  11. Welcome to the forum Steve. Seiko rotors (oscillating weights as Seiko call them) & their bearings are a bit of a pain to say the least, being prone to an early death with the tell-tale scraping sound as the weight eats the movement. 6XXX & earlier 7XXX series had the bearing (Seiko part no. 821820) fitted under a circular plate on the bridge held by 3 screws, so far I have had to cannibalise other movements to replace these as they are no longer available. Later 7XXX series up to the present 7S26 the bearing is part of the rotor & can be replaced by a 7S26 rotor, although unfortunately these are being phased out too.
  12. There is a macro setting on the bottom button of the menu dial on the back, this can be accessed via the menu as well.
  13. Yoose the force - Looke er Mark - yoose the force. Or about a week in the ultrasonic with the heat set high?
  14. Like mark I still use a Panasonic TZ9 (much the same as the TZ7) for the reference shots, however I find the phone - an LG G2 gives slightly better results & use it for the before & after library pics.
  15. The main points with the nut & superglue method: 1. It works on any screwback. 2. It works even if it rusted solid. 3. It doesn't mark the back. 4. It comes apart easily. 5. Its cheap. 6. err - that's it. Nuff said.
  16. Try increasing the microphone volume, it sounds like it having difficulty hearing the watch.
  17. Definitely a Smiths TY, these were made in 1,5,7 & 21 jewel versions. Not too sure when production of this model was started - it was a replacement for the RY movement and was later replaced by the Streamline movement in 1966. The Anglo Celtic Watch Co. was a joint venture between Smiths & Ingersoll from 1947 until 1969 when Ingersoll pulled out of the venture. The factory carried on under Smiths until final closure in 1980. Watches from this factory with Smiths movements will be marked Made in Great Britain. If you can produce a photo of the complete watch, I may be able to give a rough date for the watch.
  18. A good smear of silicone grease helps.
  19. If I'm not mistaken that looks like a Smiths TY movement made by the Anglo Celtic Watch Co. Try John at http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com for parts.
  20. Here's another I am working on at the moment (please excuse the not so good pics): Basically sound, no lifting varnish, but the usual age spots, blooms etc. Immersed into IPA & gently brushed with a sable brush for a couple of minutes, rinsed in distilled water for another couple of mins, then dipped in HG silver dip for a minute. Finally rinsed & dried: I would not suggest that this method is completely safe or will work every time, but the results have been good so far. Just don't try it on a friends Patek - particularly if he's a big barsteward!
  21. Very nice work 5*. Good lesson learnt - always assume the last person to service the watch did so poorly, most of mine appear to have had the hammer, wood chisel, Vim & WD40 treatment in the past.
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