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Horlogerie

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  1. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Prowler in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    I have no problems cutting the silver steel, mind you I tend to use a carbide graver sharpened to a fine razor edge. But, I also can cut silver steel with a standard graver with no problems. The silver steel is tempered to what would be a "blue" steel hardness, before I cut the arbour. It is OK to use pre-blued steel for pivots and balance staff's, but what I have found is that "blued" steel you buy from the various vendors is not tempered properly, so I prefer to use my own.
    Thank you for the BHI feedback, much appreciated, hopefully you will like the April issue. The only drawback is that you will see some duplication between the HJ and my posts.
     
    I used my Jacot tool to shorten the tip, with the escape wheel safely mounted in the Jacot tool, slowly and carefully I removed material with a arkansas fine stone, then rounded and burnished the tip. It's a tricky process but if you mount the wheel properly the tip is supported by the lantern runner.
  2. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Fildi in Patek Repair - Part 2, Making New Staff And Stem   
    Patek pocket watch repair – Part 2, making and replacing the balance staff, new stem fabrication
     
    In Part 1 of this repair I had to make a new arbor for the escape wheel (see my earlier post if you haven't read it).
     
    Unfortunately the bottom balance staff pivot was bent and when I tried to straighten it out with my Seitz pivot straightner it snapped. Obviously it was much harder than normal as the pivot straightner should have been able to do it's job.
    So with no access to any spare staff, I had to make one.
     
    Here is the old staff being pressed out of the balance after I cut away the rivet. Someone had previously replaced the staff as there was a slight bit of material removed around the balance arm hole.
     

     
    With the staff removed I was able to take the dimensions and make a new one from round silver steel stock. Luckily the staff is quite large and measures just over 5.00mm long making it easy to work with. The pivots measure 0.10mm.
     

     
    The new staff was riveted to the balance and the roller table installed before it was poised. Poising is checking and adjusting the balance wheel to make sure that it doesn't have any heavy spot. In other words “balancing” the balance wheel so that all the mass is centered on the pivots. Poising is mandatory and always required after a new staff is installed. If the poise is off and the balance is heavier on one side the vertical rate will not be accurate.
     

     

     
     
    The original stem was in very poor condition and did not fit the hole in the mainplate, being somewhat too small which was causing all sorts of problems.
     

     
     
     
     
    Here's the new stem I made
     

     
    In this view you can see that the new stem fills completely the mainplate hole, no side play anymore
     

  3. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Blacklab in Patek Repair - Part 2, Making New Staff And Stem   
    Patek pocket watch repair – Part 2, making and replacing the balance staff, new stem fabrication
     
    In Part 1 of this repair I had to make a new arbor for the escape wheel (see my earlier post if you haven't read it).
     
    Unfortunately the bottom balance staff pivot was bent and when I tried to straighten it out with my Seitz pivot straightner it snapped. Obviously it was much harder than normal as the pivot straightner should have been able to do it's job.
    So with no access to any spare staff, I had to make one.
     
    Here is the old staff being pressed out of the balance after I cut away the rivet. Someone had previously replaced the staff as there was a slight bit of material removed around the balance arm hole.
     

     
    With the staff removed I was able to take the dimensions and make a new one from round silver steel stock. Luckily the staff is quite large and measures just over 5.00mm long making it easy to work with. The pivots measure 0.10mm.
     

     
    The new staff was riveted to the balance and the roller table installed before it was poised. Poising is checking and adjusting the balance wheel to make sure that it doesn't have any heavy spot. In other words “balancing” the balance wheel so that all the mass is centered on the pivots. Poising is mandatory and always required after a new staff is installed. If the poise is off and the balance is heavier on one side the vertical rate will not be accurate.
     

     

     
     
    The original stem was in very poor condition and did not fit the hole in the mainplate, being somewhat too small which was causing all sorts of problems.
     

     
     
     
     
    Here's the new stem I made
     

     
    In this view you can see that the new stem fills completely the mainplate hole, no side play anymore
     

  4. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Don in Patek Repair - Part 2, Making New Staff And Stem   
    Patek pocket watch repair – Part 2, making and replacing the balance staff, new stem fabrication
     
    In Part 1 of this repair I had to make a new arbor for the escape wheel (see my earlier post if you haven't read it).
     
    Unfortunately the bottom balance staff pivot was bent and when I tried to straighten it out with my Seitz pivot straightner it snapped. Obviously it was much harder than normal as the pivot straightner should have been able to do it's job.
    So with no access to any spare staff, I had to make one.
     
    Here is the old staff being pressed out of the balance after I cut away the rivet. Someone had previously replaced the staff as there was a slight bit of material removed around the balance arm hole.
     

     
    With the staff removed I was able to take the dimensions and make a new one from round silver steel stock. Luckily the staff is quite large and measures just over 5.00mm long making it easy to work with. The pivots measure 0.10mm.
     

     
    The new staff was riveted to the balance and the roller table installed before it was poised. Poising is checking and adjusting the balance wheel to make sure that it doesn't have any heavy spot. In other words “balancing” the balance wheel so that all the mass is centered on the pivots. Poising is mandatory and always required after a new staff is installed. If the poise is off and the balance is heavier on one side the vertical rate will not be accurate.
     

     

     
     
    The original stem was in very poor condition and did not fit the hole in the mainplate, being somewhat too small which was causing all sorts of problems.
     

     
     
     
     
    Here's the new stem I made
     

     
    In this view you can see that the new stem fills completely the mainplate hole, no side play anymore
     

  5. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Geo in Patek Repair - Part 2, Making New Staff And Stem   
    Patek pocket watch repair – Part 2, making and replacing the balance staff, new stem fabrication
     
    In Part 1 of this repair I had to make a new arbor for the escape wheel (see my earlier post if you haven't read it).
     
    Unfortunately the bottom balance staff pivot was bent and when I tried to straighten it out with my Seitz pivot straightner it snapped. Obviously it was much harder than normal as the pivot straightner should have been able to do it's job.
    So with no access to any spare staff, I had to make one.
     
    Here is the old staff being pressed out of the balance after I cut away the rivet. Someone had previously replaced the staff as there was a slight bit of material removed around the balance arm hole.
     

     
    With the staff removed I was able to take the dimensions and make a new one from round silver steel stock. Luckily the staff is quite large and measures just over 5.00mm long making it easy to work with. The pivots measure 0.10mm.
     

     
    The new staff was riveted to the balance and the roller table installed before it was poised. Poising is checking and adjusting the balance wheel to make sure that it doesn't have any heavy spot. In other words “balancing” the balance wheel so that all the mass is centered on the pivots. Poising is mandatory and always required after a new staff is installed. If the poise is off and the balance is heavier on one side the vertical rate will not be accurate.
     

     

     
     
    The original stem was in very poor condition and did not fit the hole in the mainplate, being somewhat too small which was causing all sorts of problems.
     

     
     
     
     
    Here's the new stem I made
     

     
    In this view you can see that the new stem fills completely the mainplate hole, no side play anymore
     

  6. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from SSTEEL in Loose Hour Hand Tube, How Do You Secure?   
    The only reliable results I have had correcting this problem is by inserting the tube into a correct sized collet, then inserting the collet in the lathe and giving the drawbar a snug twist.
  7. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Don in Bought A Staking Set Yesterday   
    Looks to be in good condition with a good selection of stakes and stumps.
    Well done.
  8. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from fjseal in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off.
    General view of the movement

    The broken escape wheel arbor

    The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill.

    Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two.

    Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled.

    Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm.

    Checking the pivot diameter.

    Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom.

    A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned.

    With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake.
    Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed.

    And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel.

    There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
  9. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Vich in Making A Barrel Arbor From Raw Stock - Tissot Repair   
    Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch
     
    The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor.
     
    The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor:
     
    square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw
    a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook
    there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel
    the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly
    the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum
      Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely.
     

     
    Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor.
     

     
    The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished.
     

     
    Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching.
     

     
    Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue.
     

     
    Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability.
     
    [/url]
     

     
    Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly.
     

     
    And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit.
     

     
    Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed.
     

     
    And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play.

     
    With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.
  10. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from anilv in Making A Barrel Arbor From Raw Stock - Tissot Repair   
    Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch
     
    The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor.
     
    The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor:
     
    square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw
    a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook
    there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel
    the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly
    the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum
      Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely.
     

     
    Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor.
     

     
    The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished.
     

     
    Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching.
     

     
    Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue.
     

     
    Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability.
     
    [/url]
     

     
    Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly.
     

     
    And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit.
     

     
    Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed.
     

     
    And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play.

     
    With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.
  11. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Don in Making A Barrel Arbor From Raw Stock - Tissot Repair   
    Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch
     
    The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor.
     
    The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor:
     
    square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw
    a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook
    there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel
    the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly
    the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum
      Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely.
     

     
    Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor.
     

     
    The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished.
     

     
    Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching.
     

     
    Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue.
     

     
    Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability.
     
    [/url]
     

     
    Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly.
     

     
    And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit.
     

     
    Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed.
     

     
    And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play.

     
    With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.
  12. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from RicardoG in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off.
    General view of the movement

    The broken escape wheel arbor

    The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill.

    Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two.

    Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled.

    Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm.

    Checking the pivot diameter.

    Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom.

    A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned.

    With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake.
    Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed.

    And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel.

    There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
  13. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from atimegoneby in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off.
    General view of the movement

    The broken escape wheel arbor

    The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill.

    Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two.

    Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled.

    Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm.

    Checking the pivot diameter.

    Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom.

    A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned.

    With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake.
    Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed.

    And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel.

    There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
  14. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from atimegoneby in Making A Barrel Arbor From Raw Stock - Tissot Repair   
    Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch
     
    The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor.
     
    The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor:
     
    square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw
    a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook
    there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel
    the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly
    the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum
      Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely.
     

     
    Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor.
     

     
    The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished.
     

     
    Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching.
     

     
    Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue.
     

     
    Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability.
     
    [/url]
     

     
    Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly.
     

     
    And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit.
     

     
    Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed.
     

     
    And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play.

     
    With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.
  15. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Rob in Making A Barrel Arbor From Raw Stock - Tissot Repair   
    Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch
     
    The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor.
     
    The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor:
     
    square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw
    a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook
    there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel
    the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly
    the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum
      Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely.
     

     
    Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor.
     

     
    The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished.
     

     
    Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching.
     

     
    Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue.
     

     
    Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability.
     
    [/url]
     

     
    Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly.
     

     
    And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit.
     

     
    Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed.
     

     
    And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play.

     
    With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.
  16. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Geo in Making A Barrel Arbor From Raw Stock - Tissot Repair   
    Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch
     
    The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor.
     
    The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor:
     
    square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw
    a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook
    there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel
    the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly
    the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum
      Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely.
     

     
    Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor.
     

     
    The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished.
     

     
    Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching.
     

     
    Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue.
     

     
    Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability.
     
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    Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly.
     

     
    And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit.
     

     
    Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed.
     

     
    And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play.

     
    With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.
  17. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from clockwatcher in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off.
    General view of the movement

    The broken escape wheel arbor

    The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill.

    Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two.

    Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled.

    Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm.

    Checking the pivot diameter.

    Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom.

    A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned.

    With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake.
    Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed.

    And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel.

    There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
  18. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Don in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off.
    General view of the movement

    The broken escape wheel arbor

    The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill.

    Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two.

    Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled.

    Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm.

    Checking the pivot diameter.

    Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom.

    A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned.

    With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake.
    Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed.

    And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel.

    There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
  19. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Rob in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off.
    General view of the movement

    The broken escape wheel arbor

    The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill.

    Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two.

    Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled.

    Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm.

    Checking the pivot diameter.

    Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom.

    A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned.

    With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake.
    Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed.

    And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel.

    There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
  20. Like
    Horlogerie got a reaction from Geo in Fabrication And Replacement Of A Patek Escape Arbour   
    The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off.
    General view of the movement

    The broken escape wheel arbor

    The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill.

    Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two.

    Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled.

    Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm.

    Checking the pivot diameter.

    Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom.

    A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned.

    With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake.
    Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed.

    And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel.

    There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
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