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Everything posted by Horlogerie

  1. My opinion clearly doesn't matter. I deleted my post because it was a mistake to critisize your workmanship. Calling me pompous, impolite and un-professional doesn't really jive with your welcoming all discussions does it? For the sake of any other members, I have decided that this isn't the place for me. All the best to everyone in their watchmaking endevours.
  2. It's clearly not my place to instruct anyone on anything. You consider my comment as pompous, impolite and un-professional, so in that light I have removed it. It wasn't my intention to offend you in any way, and because English is my second language I can understand how the written word can be misinterprited. There are standard practices for a reason, I didn't create them I simply follow them. I'll leave my contibution at that, you have been here for many years and are an Admin and have a large following, I really have nothing more to say... Joyeuse Paques to you also.
  3. Thanks for the kind words. Yes indeed, the binocular microscope was a great addition to the shop. Using the lathe with a 4X loupe is not too difficult for normal jobs, but when it comes to staff's and small parts requiring 7X with the loupe, the working distance and depth of field is so small that it quickly becomes very tiring. I picked up the binocular microscope and haven't regretted the cost at all. I can easily turn a pivot to 0.08mm without any difficulty, whereas with a loupe I would struggle at 0.10mm diameter. As well with the microscope I am sitting back and completely upright. The only drawback, inspecting anything you do at 4X with a loupe under the microscope shows just how poorly 4X can be in terms of finish, oiling, etc, sure makes you quickly improve your attention to detail.
  4. Patek pocket watch repair – Part 2, making and replacing the balance staff, new stem fabrication In Part 1 of this repair I had to make a new arbor for the escape wheel (see my earlier post if you haven't read it). Unfortunately the bottom balance staff pivot was bent and when I tried to straighten it out with my Seitz pivot straightner it snapped. Obviously it was much harder than normal as the pivot straightner should have been able to do it's job. So with no access to any spare staff, I had to make one. Here is the old staff being pressed out of the balance after I cut away the rivet. Someone had previously replaced the staff as there was a slight bit of material removed around the balance arm hole. With the staff removed I was able to take the dimensions and make a new one from round silver steel stock. Luckily the staff is quite large and measures just over 5.00mm long making it easy to work with. The pivots measure 0.10mm. The new staff was riveted to the balance and the roller table installed before it was poised. Poising is checking and adjusting the balance wheel to make sure that it doesn't have any heavy spot. In other words “balancing” the balance wheel so that all the mass is centered on the pivots. Poising is mandatory and always required after a new staff is installed. If the poise is off and the balance is heavier on one side the vertical rate will not be accurate. The original stem was in very poor condition and did not fit the hole in the mainplate, being somewhat too small which was causing all sorts of problems. Here's the new stem I made In this view you can see that the new stem fills completely the mainplate hole, no side play anymore
  5. Photo's would be a big help. It is either pinned or glued. If it's pinned you will see a tiny pin and a piece of the hairspring where it broke off. For those you need to remove the pin and broken hairspring, re-insert the hairspring in the hole and re-install the pin to secure it in place making sure that it all lines up properly. Not an easy task at the best of times. If it's a glued in type, it's a bit easier, you need to clean out any remaining glue from the stud carrier, then apply a small amount of epoxy and reinsert the hairspring and line it all up and let it harden.
  6. The only reliable results I have had correcting this problem is by inserting the tube into a correct sized collet, then inserting the collet in the lathe and giving the drawbar a snug twist.
  7. Looks to be in good condition with a good selection of stakes and stumps. Well done.
  8. Welcome Kevin, We share a lot in common, but are quite a distance apart. I look forward to your experiences and expertise at the bench. Glad to have you here.
  9. Hello and welcome. I am also a watchmaker and hope to see and read some of your experiences at the bench. Great looking watch, well done.
  10. At the moment I have a small Etic model. Bought it because the price for other models was completely unrealistic, 685 Pounds is nuts. The Etic does a decent job and does work, but I sometimes wonder if the low cost means that it's not really up to the task, I do have to repeat the operation now and then. I had a really nice demagnitizer before I left Canada, but it was of course 110V and no good here. It was old but made for the Magnaflux Non Destructive Testing industry, and was excellent. I would love to find another one for 220V, the search continues.
  11. I don't normally demagnitize all movements that I service. Modern movements with modern hairsprings are not magnetic, so there is no reason to try and demagnitize them. Certainly older movements with blued steel hairsprings can get magnitized, but as stated above simply demagnitizing for the sake of demagnitizing everything can be a problem. In some cases I have had a real problem getting small parts to demagnitize, even after repeated attempts, so I only demagnitize when I know it's already magnetic.
  12. More than likely the coils are contaminated with the cleaning/rinse fluid. The only product I have found that works to clean hairsprings is actual hairspring cleaner, everything else I have ever tried and used leaves a residue and the coils stick.
  13. Wow, don't see that type of failure too often. You may want to check the cannon pinion friction in case it's really tight and may have contributed to the failure.
  14. Thanks for the reply Mark, under normal conditions, when I have an arbour remaining that I can fit into my tailstock drill runner, I would use a spade drill. But in this case because I had nothing to ensure that the drill would remain centered, other than the shallow v-grove that I cut into the broken arbor, I was concerned that the spade drill bit would go off center. So I felt it was better to use a twist drill with a nice point that would keep centered in my v-grove. The tailstock runner is the safest way to do the drilling for sure, and even then I still use my finger holding method so I can feel what is going on.
  15. Thank you. I also have difficulty drilling these small holes, I love the carbide drills for their cutting action, but they are so brittle compared to HSS drills that it's a real challenge between maintaining enough pressure so that you don't burnish the hole, and not too much pressure where you snap the drill off inside the hole. Removing a broken carbide drill from a hole is not something I enjoy doing. I hold the drill lightly in my fingers so that I can feel how it's working and if it does catch it will slip in my fingers and not snap off like it would if held in a chuck.
  16. Thank you for the positive feedback. I find that material house drill bits are very expensive. What I use are carbide drill bits, you can buy them on Ebay, they are used in the electronics industry to drill PC boards and then they are sold at really cheap prices. I have a few hundred in various sizes and love them. If you search under those words you should find a number of sellers. Thank you for the comment. I bought the silver steel, and all my metal stock (silver steel, stainless, and brass) from the suppliers to the model engineering hobby. There are many of them in the UK, I have used a few of them, GLR Kennions www.glrkennions.co.uk is one example. They carry a wide selection of metals that are perfect for the watchmaker.
  17. Repair and restoration of a Tissot pocket watch The watch arrived with a number of problems, the crown wheel was missing and so was the barrel arbor. The barrel arbor is a difficult part to make, because it has so many things all contained in a very small space, so I think my first task is to make a new one. Here are some of the critical parts of a barrel arbor: square boss has to have a hole drilled and tapped to accept the winding wheel screw a hook needs to be made on the arbor to fit and hold the inner part of the mainspring allowing the spring to be positively secured and the required clearance to the coil so it doesn't touch the hook there are numerous pivot surfaces, 2 to fit into the mainplate and barrel bridge, 2 to fit into the barrel the dimensions of all the pivots and spacing is critical if the arbor is going to fit and work properly the arbor needs to be hardened and tempered for strength and durability, and it's friction surfaces need a high polish and burnishing to reduce friction to the minimum Whenever you are making a part from raw stock, you have to have a plan and logical approach. My first task was to drill and tap the hole for the screw. Once that was done, the next step was cutting the 4 faces that would secure the arbor to the winding wheel and allow the movement to be wound up. I made these with a very slight taper, so that as you tightened the screw the wheel would be held more securely. Here is a view of the winding wheel being test fitted to the arbor. The next step was to fabricate all the various pivot surfaces and make sure that the heights were correct so that it fit into the barrel as well as between the mainplate and the barrel bridge. Here's the arbor ready to be parted off and the bottom pivot finished. Once the bottom pivot was finished, the arbor needs to be hardened, it is coated in boric acid to keep the oxygene away during heating, heated to a red heat and then quenched in water. Here it is after quenching. Next it gets a polish so that I can see the colour change as I temper it to a blue hue. Now it needs another polish of all surfaces, and I burnished the pivot surfaces for durability. [/url] Now the big test, fittin it into the barrel and the mainspring, it fits perfectly. And next is the installation of the cover, which also is a perfect fit. Moving along the whole assembly gets installed into the movement, end and side shakes are checked and corrected if needed. And finally I am able to re-install the winding wheel and it fits perfect with the required clearance to the barrel bridge and no end play. With that out of the way, my next task is the making of a new crown gear.
  18. My first thought is that the stem case hole and the movement stem hole are not lining up when the movement is installed in the case. The tolerance is very tight on alignment between the case and the movement. Is the movement original to this case, in other words is anything different now than before you installed this new movement? Also, adding a GMT function to a non-GMT movement could cause a height problem on the dial side where the original clearances were for an hour wheel only, not a GMT and hour one, so it could be that the dial is pressing down on the GMT and hour wheels and causing them to jam up. How tight are the case clamps pressing down and holding the movement in place, you could try with no case clamps installed and see what happens, that may help isolate the defect.
  19. I also find the carbide gravers difficult to sharpen, but I finally stumbled on using a India Stone for the sharpening, and it works really well. I have the double sided India stone, with fine and co**BLEEP** surfaces. I also have a fine diamond wheel that I mount in the lathe and it works very well and is able to give a nice flat finish to the cutting edge. Between the two, I can finally achieve a flat sharp edge. I do temper the silver steel, this is the only way that I can get consistant results and hardness.
  20. I have no problems cutting the silver steel, mind you I tend to use a carbide graver sharpened to a fine razor edge. But, I also can cut silver steel with a standard graver with no problems. The silver steel is tempered to what would be a "blue" steel hardness, before I cut the arbour. It is OK to use pre-blued steel for pivots and balance staff's, but what I have found is that "blued" steel you buy from the various vendors is not tempered properly, so I prefer to use my own. Thank you for the BHI feedback, much appreciated, hopefully you will like the April issue. The only drawback is that you will see some duplication between the HJ and my posts. I used my Jacot tool to shorten the tip, with the escape wheel safely mounted in the Jacot tool, slowly and carefully I removed material with a arkansas fine stone, then rounded and burnished the tip. It's a tricky process but if you mount the wheel properly the tip is supported by the lantern runner.
  21. The Patek Philippe pocket watch arrived with a number of problems. The most serious was that the escape wheel arbour was snapped off. General view of the movement The broken escape wheel arbor The biggest problem was that the arbour had broken off flush with the escape wheel pinion, a worse case scenario, leaving me no arbor stub to use as a alignment guide for drilling. So in order to install a new arbor I had to drill freehand with no guide. Here's the escape wheel mounted in the lathe, where I used a grave to cut a center v-notch to guide the drill. Next up was the drilling, the drill measures 0.25mm in diameter and standard practices is that the hole is 3X the diameter, so I drilled down 0.75mm deep. Holding onto and drilling a hole with a 1/4 of a mm drill is a big challenge, it's only 4 times thicker than a hair, so not much pressure is needed to snap it in two. Here's a better view of the 0.25mm hole I drilled. Next up was fabricating a new replacement arbor, I did this using silver steel, and made it oversize so that I could adjust it for a perfect fit. The diameter of the arbor is 0.35mm and the pivot is 0.11mm. Checking the pivot diameter. Replacement arbor on top, old broken one on bottom. A small dab of Loctite was applied to the part of the arbor that would be press fitted into the escape wheel, then the new arbour was carefully tapped in place and seated and aligned. With that taken care of, the escape wheel was installed in the movement and I measured how much of the tip of the pivot I needed to remove for a perfect fit with the required end shake. Here's the pivot sticking out of the jewel with the cap jewel removed. And here's the view with the pivot trimmed in length and sitting just below the jewel. There were a number of other issues with the movement, but I always start with the most challenging. With the new arbor in place and the escape wheel fixed, I went on to the other defects, which will have to wait till another day.
  22. Hi everyone, Just signed up and saying hello. I am a professional watchmaker qualifed by the British Horological Institute. I specialize in vintage watches and the ability to make most parts that are no longer available. I also specialize in complex movements, such as the El Primero, Dubois-Deprez modules and chronograph's. My main interst is of course watchmaking and I will be posting various servicings and overhauls and the making of new parts. You can visit my website if you would like more details, www.roberthoran.eu Looking forward to my time on the forum.
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