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Horlogerie

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Horlogerie last won the day on March 24 2015

Horlogerie had the most liked content!

About Horlogerie

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  1. My opinion clearly doesn't matter. I deleted my post because it was a mistake to critisize your workmanship. Calling me pompous, impolite and un-professional doesn't really jive with your welcoming all discussions does it? For the sake of any other members, I have decided that this isn't the place for me. All the best to everyone in their watchmaking endevours.
  2. It's clearly not my place to instruct anyone on anything. You consider my comment as pompous, impolite and un-professional, so in that light I have removed it. It wasn't my intention to offend you in any way, and because English is my second language I can understand how the written word can be misinterprited. There are standard practices for a reason, I didn't create them I simply follow them. I'll leave my contibution at that, you have been here for many years and are an Admin and have a large following, I really have nothing more to say... Joyeuse Paques to you also.
  3. Thanks for the kind words. Yes indeed, the binocular microscope was a great addition to the shop. Using the lathe with a 4X loupe is not too difficult for normal jobs, but when it comes to staff's and small parts requiring 7X with the loupe, the working distance and depth of field is so small that it quickly becomes very tiring. I picked up the binocular microscope and haven't regretted the cost at all. I can easily turn a pivot to 0.08mm without any difficulty, whereas with a loupe I would struggle at 0.10mm diameter. As well with the microscope I am sitting back and completely upright. The only drawback, inspecting anything you do at 4X with a loupe under the microscope shows just how poorly 4X can be in terms of finish, oiling, etc, sure makes you quickly improve your attention to detail.
  4. Patek pocket watch repair – Part 2, making and replacing the balance staff, new stem fabrication In Part 1 of this repair I had to make a new arbor for the escape wheel (see my earlier post if you haven't read it). Unfortunately the bottom balance staff pivot was bent and when I tried to straighten it out with my Seitz pivot straightner it snapped. Obviously it was much harder than normal as the pivot straightner should have been able to do it's job. So with no access to any spare staff, I had to make one. Here is the old staff being pressed out of the balance after I cut away the rivet. Someone had previously replaced the staff as there was a slight bit of material removed around the balance arm hole. With the staff removed I was able to take the dimensions and make a new one from round silver steel stock. Luckily the staff is quite large and measures just over 5.00mm long making it easy to work with. The pivots measure 0.10mm. The new staff was riveted to the balance and the roller table installed before it was poised. Poising is checking and adjusting the balance wheel to make sure that it doesn't have any heavy spot. In other words “balancing” the balance wheel so that all the mass is centered on the pivots. Poising is mandatory and always required after a new staff is installed. If the poise is off and the balance is heavier on one side the vertical rate will not be accurate. The original stem was in very poor condition and did not fit the hole in the mainplate, being somewhat too small which was causing all sorts of problems. Here's the new stem I made In this view you can see that the new stem fills completely the mainplate hole, no side play anymore
  5. Photo's would be a big help. It is either pinned or glued. If it's pinned you will see a tiny pin and a piece of the hairspring where it broke off. For those you need to remove the pin and broken hairspring, re-insert the hairspring in the hole and re-install the pin to secure it in place making sure that it all lines up properly. Not an easy task at the best of times. If it's a glued in type, it's a bit easier, you need to clean out any remaining glue from the stud carrier, then apply a small amount of epoxy and reinsert the hairspring and line it all up and let it harden.
  6. The only reliable results I have had correcting this problem is by inserting the tube into a correct sized collet, then inserting the collet in the lathe and giving the drawbar a snug twist.
  7. Looks to be in good condition with a good selection of stakes and stumps. Well done.
  8. Welcome Kevin, We share a lot in common, but are quite a distance apart. I look forward to your experiences and expertise at the bench. Glad to have you here.
  9. Hello and welcome. I am also a watchmaker and hope to see and read some of your experiences at the bench. Great looking watch, well done.
  10. At the moment I have a small Etic model. Bought it because the price for other models was completely unrealistic, 685 Pounds is nuts. The Etic does a decent job and does work, but I sometimes wonder if the low cost means that it's not really up to the task, I do have to repeat the operation now and then. I had a really nice demagnitizer before I left Canada, but it was of course 110V and no good here. It was old but made for the Magnaflux Non Destructive Testing industry, and was excellent. I would love to find another one for 220V, the search continues.
  11. I don't normally demagnitize all movements that I service. Modern movements with modern hairsprings are not magnetic, so there is no reason to try and demagnitize them. Certainly older movements with blued steel hairsprings can get magnitized, but as stated above simply demagnitizing for the sake of demagnitizing everything can be a problem. In some cases I have had a real problem getting small parts to demagnitize, even after repeated attempts, so I only demagnitize when I know it's already magnetic.
  12. More than likely the coils are contaminated with the cleaning/rinse fluid. The only product I have found that works to clean hairsprings is actual hairspring cleaner, everything else I have ever tried and used leaves a residue and the coils stick.
  13. Wow, don't see that type of failure too often. You may want to check the cannon pinion friction in case it's really tight and may have contributed to the failure.
  14. Thanks for the reply Mark, under normal conditions, when I have an arbour remaining that I can fit into my tailstock drill runner, I would use a spade drill. But in this case because I had nothing to ensure that the drill would remain centered, other than the shallow v-grove that I cut into the broken arbor, I was concerned that the spade drill bit would go off center. So I felt it was better to use a twist drill with a nice point that would keep centered in my v-grove. The tailstock runner is the safest way to do the drilling for sure, and even then I still use my finger holding method so I can feel what is going on.
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