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Thesecondtallestman

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  1. I am fairly certain this is a caliber 162, as the 163 only has a seconds sub dial, while 162 also has an up (auf) and down (ab) indicator below 12'o clock, like seen on this watch. This is a winding indicator.
  2. How would you suggest heating it up? I did try to heat it with a hairdryer yesterday, and applied an ice-cube to the back to see if it helped to make the case expand and back retract. Are you thinking something more drastic, or was that along the lines of what you were thinking about?
  3. For what it's worth I believe the reference is 01.1291.125, with a cal. 2562, but I obviously haven't been able to verify that.
  4. I did consider that, but I kinda figured it would move a bit if that was the case. I did try with a caseback knife just now, and it feels like I would just break that tool as well if I apply more pressure. Anywho, adding some pictures. Excuse the obfuscating bolt (the nut broke off, so ended up trying something with a larger surface area to put glue on).
  5. I recently bought an old, non-functioning Zenith Surf thinking it would be my new restoration and repair project. However, the case back has proven impossible to remove. It's a normal looking screw-down case and I've tried using a typical jaxa tool without luck. I tried soaking the backside of the case in GT7, thinking it might have rusted shut, even thought there is no visible sign of rust or water damage elsewhere or on the dial, that didn't do much either. I tried the good old method of using superglue and a nut, putting the case in a caseholder and placing that in a vise. The case back still won't budge, and I ended up breaking the caseholder into pieces. How common is it for a stainless steel case back to be galled shut? And is there anything that can be done about it short of destroying the case? I guess someone could also have glued the case back from the inside, but that doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. I guess a gasket could also serve as an adhesive, but considering the force I've applied to opening it, I can't imagine that would be it either. Any sort of tips or possible solutions are most welcome.
  6. I've just finished reading through this whole thread. Early on Mark said that Molykote DX was a possible substitute for 9501. However, on Esslinger they say that Molykote DX is said to be similar to D5. Does that mean that Molykote DX can work as a decent substitute for both 9501 and D5? I'm guessing the application might be a bit trickier due to the reduced viscosity of DX, but would it perform similarly?
  7. If the label said 12.68Z, what made you say they were for 12.68N? Regarding my own hands, my initial thought was that they were corroded. However, when you suggested they might be painted it got more confusing. They do have corrosion-esque texture, but it could very well be some kind of aged paint with patina. The color is a dark grey, without any discernible hints of the typical reddish/orange rust color. As for what type of hands I should have, I really don't know. Been trying to find an example of the same watch without much luck. When I bought it I somewhat figured it might be a redial, with someone adding the "Sport Chief" text to the dial. I've read some debates about Sport Chief redials on omegaforums, but they basically have two competing viewpoints; Sport Chief redials are common, typically to add value to watches with the popular 30L movement (which mine doesn't have), and Sport Chief redials are uncommon, as there is no real demand for Sport Chiefs. However, upon receiving the watch, the text is very uniform, has the exact same texture and color, the same protrusion and reflective properties. Still though, I can't find many pictures of Sport Chiefs with a painted logo instead of the typical metal insert. One of the closest matches I've found had straight hands with center gaps for lume, but the subdial on that one was still different from mine, so I didn't feel certain that those were the hands mine should have as well. Anywho, I somewhat enjoy the hunt for the truth, although it delays the process of fixing the watch up to a standard I can be happy with. Gonna add some more close up photos of the dial text/logo and hands, so whoever want to can chime in. Excuse the glare on this one, but it was the only way to capture the refraction/glare and protrusion in a picture. And the final one is a better lit close-up image of the hands.
  8. Hello Rogart, and thank you for the generous offer. After a quick look on ranfft it does appear that 12.68N does have a quite a bit larger pivot, as the dimensions listed are "1.6 x 1.00 x 0.22mm", while the 12.68Z has "1.32 x 0.75 x 0.22mm". So unless I am missing something, I'm assuming they wouldn't fit very well. I did measure the lenght of my hands, 10.9mm on the hour, and 14.75mm on the minute, roughly as the metal looks quite brittle, and I didn't want to mash it in my caliper. I am curious if the lenghts are similar to the 12.68N.
  9. Oh well, I posted prematurely by accident, and it's not allowing me more edits. I suppose that more or less covers it. Note to self: learn how to operate forum.
  10. Hello! I recently joined this forum after having watched hours and hours of Marks youtube videos. For the past six months I've fallen quite far down the rabbit hole of horology. I came into this very green, with no family or relatives ever viewing a watch as more than a simple timekeeper or a piece of ornamental jewelry . However, a dear friend of mine is an avid collector, and I suppose his interest finally rubbed off on me. What began as a purely aesthetic attraction, quickly turned into mechanical fascination, and a desire to learn how the engineering marvel on my wrist functioned and operated. My name is Emil, I live in Oslo, Norway. I'm currently a student, and I hope to learn a lot from the people on this forum!
  11. Thank you! Much appreciated. I stumbled upon ranfft while fixing my first watch. At that time I just googled the movement and brand, which had it at the very top of my google search. Googling anything with Longines just brings up an endless stream of auctions. I was not aware of this. I will introduce myself! Again, thanks for the help.
  12. I recently bought this Longines, and I believe the hands are not original, as I've yet to find a Sport Chief with similar hands. I've tried to figure out how to find some original hands, but short of buying a whole watch with the same 12.68Z movement, I haven't found a solution. I've looked on all the listed parts vendors on this site, but no hands to be found. I've looked on ebay for a few weeks now, but also to no avail. I've also considered just finding some new hands, but I'm lacking a hand measuring tool, and didn't feel like the cost was worth it to fix this one issue at the time. Hence, here I am, hoping that someone here has the knowledge I seek, or any pointers on where to find the information I require. Either where to find original hands, or the dimensions of the hands so I can consider buying new unoriginal hands. As you can see, the glass is also cracked, so I've wanted to replace that. I wanted to avoid removing it for as long as possible, as the watch is currently getting wrist-time now and then, and reinserting a cracked glass often turns out to be a sad endeavor. So if anyone has any idea about the dimensions of the crystal that would also be greatly appreciated.
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