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MikeRaleighNC

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About MikeRaleighNC

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  1. Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the no dates are likely all the same. Given the part (#255) is often referenced as interchangeable, I was trying to validate that they are indeed NOT interchangeable or whether there is some trick/method to swap one for the other...
  2. Hi all - I'm working on an AS (A Schild) 1803 movement. The hour wheel has a couple worn teeth that are slipping on the minute wheel. Seeking a replacement, I saw Jules Borel interchange said the hour wheel is interchangeable with that of the 1802. Everywhere I find hour wheel on the internet, they are labelled as AS 1802/03. However, they are different. In short, the 1803 is thicker so that it can catch the intermediate date change wheel. The wheel on the 1802 (non-date version) is thinner, and slides below the date change intermediate wheel (not engaging). Am I missing something? Trying to confirm these parts are, indeed, not interchangeable. In any event, if anyone has an 1803 hour wheel, I cannot find one! See pictures, and thanks in advance.
  3. How to I get in touch with you? My email address is mohrnstein@gmail.com
  4. You're the man! I cannot thank you enough. Finally got it together. Part of my problem is that I was poising the springs in the top bridge/cover and trying to place over the correctors/jumpers. Finally figured out that the cutaways are for slipping the springs into place. The jewels and springs are both of the novochoc (triangle) antishock balance jewels and springs (main plate side, balance cock side). See picture. I don't think my balance staff/pivots have any problems, but if you have a balance complete, I would happily take it and compensate you fully for that. I really appreciate your help and time on this!
  5. It is a Cordura day/date. That would be a huge help! Also, if you do have any of the jewel/spring assemblies, that would be a godsend.
  6. I may have found the spring. Do you have any tips on assembling the date/day jumper & corrector works? For the life of me, I cannot figure it out. Separately, do you have any of the Novochoc shock jewel & springs? Missing a spring, and my jewels are pretty beat up...
  7. Still have parts? Struggling to source a spring or two. Thanks!
  8. A success! I got the evertite crystal in, and the chapter ring nest perfectly. Here it is at the end of the day, cleaned, serviced, and reassembled. Thanks for everyone's help! Could benefit from a fun tropic strap or nato (but don't have one on hand). Ended up messing up one of the lumed markets when soldering a dial foot, so ended up rubbing all of them off for a balanced, clean look. Will re-lume in the future once I get my hands on a kit
  9. This is incredibly helpful! Thank you! I ordered a ET, but it sounds like the DT will work too (a look more rugged). Esslinger is closed, but casker is processing weekly... Thanks again!
  10. Crown does not rotate chapter ring. Based on the dimensions and the fact that the chapter ring sits on top of the shoulder (not below directly on the dial), I too am convinced its a tension ring situation. However, still not exactly sure what crystal that relates to. I order a ever-tite and ill try to snap out the tension ring and insert the chapter ring. If not that, perhaps a diver-tite or some other specialty PA crystal? Thanks for the input.
  11. Thanks for the reply. It's 29.95 inner diameter. I test fit a regular GS PHD and it fit (30.0mm) which fit on its own; however, with it's taper (cylinder walls of crystal are not vertical), the chapter ring would not fit. I own a Cordura Seagull that uses the chapter ring as a tension ring, but it's unclear what type of crystal that is, either.
  12. I have a LeGant diver with a Seiko 66-based movement. Came to me without a crystal. It appears that the chapter ring must be a tension ring because I'm not sure how else a crystal will fit. Any ideas about what type of GS plastic crystal I need? Thanks in advance.
  13. I recently bought a UT 6565. Upon initial inspection, I realized it didn't wind. It not take long to find out why - the arbor/cylinder that the crown sits on is worn, allowing the wheel to shift out of orbit. Consequently, the crown wheel will not engage and mesh with the clutch wheel. The crown wheel sits on the barrel bridge. Please see pictures. Short of replacing the barrel bridge, is there anyway to fix this? I don't have a torch (just an electrical soldering iron and solder).
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