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Everything posted by SSH

  1. Quick update on this, the lens wasnt glued at all. Just bezel set I to the case like a cabochon stone... I'm assuming that means it's never been replaced. Anyway, removing it took about 30 seconds. I have the new lug made and ready to solder on (just need to get everyone out of the house for a while so I can work in secret). I was also able to straighten the bent crown. Things are coming together nicely. I just wish I had more time to work on it! Thanks all.
  2. Second try, is anyone willing to measure the pin in their headstock? Thanks
  3. Here's a few quick pics of the basic setup, the newly installed pin, and me measuring the clearance between the pin and opposite side of the headstock bore with a small bore gauge (ie insert bore gauge into headstock and expand until it just touches the pin on one side and headstock bore on the other). That would be the measurement Id like to duplicate on a lathe with an original pin.
  4. Thanks for the tip. I honestly hadn't given it that much thought. I probably won't make the jump in the short term since I have too many obligations already, but it's good to know it's easier to get up to speed than I had realized. I'll probably have a lot of home time next winter due to changing family obligations so maybe I'll make the jump then. Appreciate the help!
  5. Thanks Chopin, Making the new lug really isn't much of an issue. Just a matter of skillful metalsmithing, which is in my wheelhouse. Believe it or not, we rarely used our glass press when I was a professional jeweler, and didn't have anything but round dies so I hadn't thought about it for this case. I work out of my garage shop these days and don't have a press, but I can make a one off set of dies to use in my little arbor press pretty easily. I'll examine the case carefully after I remove the movement and proceed with caution. If there's cement present does that change the process, or just the amount of force needed? I'm more worried about damaging the case than the crystal, but obviously want to preserve both if possible. BTW, this is all being done in my very limited spare time so progress is slower than I'd like. Bear with me on progress reports. It's easier to ask questions than to do the actual work! Thanks for all the help and advice!
  6. Thanks for the responses: JDM: You're right that I haven't timed it out, and "it runs" is probably a fair assessment. I'm not sure how long to expect it to run or even if I wound it fully. I was being careful and it never hit a stop or stiffened up. I probably just stopped winding early. Over ~8 hr it stayed within one minute of accurate, and it probably won't ever be worn for more than 4 hours so I wasn't worried about speed. That said, I'm sure it will need professional service sometime soon, and I don't plan to do that myself. You are correct that it's beyond my skill level. As stated I'll only be handling the cosmetic work. If you have any recommendations for finding a skilled watchmaker (I'm not aware of anyone left in my town since the guy that used to work in our shop passed away) that would be useful in the future. Regarding the crystal, Doing the solder repair for the lower lug will require removal of the crystal, which is why I asked the question. I don't plan to replace it (it's in good shape), so careful removal will be required. Chopin covered the crystal cement question (thanks!). I've done plenty of crystals over the years, but primarily on modern watches. How should I go about removing this one? Any special tools or warnings about what not to do? I haven't removed the stem yet. I just pulled the watch out of my box of goodies and tested it the other day before posting. It spins true (no wobble) so I'd lean towards Chopin's suggestion about a bent crown tube instead of a bent crown/stem, but I'll investigate over the next few days when I remove the movement. By "fixed lugs" I assume you mean no spring pin? That is correct. This is the case repair I'll be performing. One hoop is missing so I'll be fashioning a new one and soldering it in place. The broken ends of the lug are visible in one of the pictures. ... I think a leather band will look best. Any suggestions on brands/styles/sources for vintage bands? We used to sell cheap spiedel replacements, which I never liked. Does anyone make good quality reproduction bands? Thanks for the help everyone.
  7. I'll try to take one tomorrow. What exactly do you want to see?
  8. Hi all, I have a vintage ladies Elgin cased watch (see photos) that I'm planning to repair as a Christmas gift to my fiance. The movement works fine (runs ~7-8 hr on a wind) so all I really need to worry about are the cosmetic items. I'm not planning on touching the face, and replacing the band hoop won't be an issue. I'm a former jeweller and can do the metal work easily enough. But I have a few other questions: Removing and installing the crystal? It appears to be plastic (it's domed) and I don't want to damage it. How should I remove it and where should I go for crystal cement? The stem sits at an odd angle? Any way to fix this or is it a live-with situation? Winding? I didn't feel any stop or clutch and I'm concerned about over-winding. Any guidance on care and feeding? The watch will be used as a dress up/date night accessory only. Band? I've found some nice metal spring bands. But what about leather bands? Where can I find one if I go that route? Thanks!
  9. Hi all, I suppose I'm late posting an intro, but might as well. I'm a former professional jeweler (current frustrated artist... There's just not enough time), and have only minimal experience with timepieces, but I've got a couple inherited pieces, and a few vintage windups that came to me needing cosmetic fixes which I'll eventually get around to. One of them is likely Ging to be an Xmas gift for my fiance, and Ill be posting a question or two about it in the repair forum shortly. Thanks!
  10. Hey all. Just a quick update. I replaced the pin in my headstock successfully. It was actually pretty easy. I don't expect any additional problems from it at this point. My only lingering question (and yes, I shoulda asked before I did the work) is how far the or pin normally extends into the bore? Since mine was damaged there was no way to get that measurement. Im not sure how consistent the keyway in various accessories are, so I set it up so the pin has about .008-.010" clearance to the bottom of the keyway. If one of you has an inside bore gauge would you be kind enough to measure the gap between the pin and the opposite side of your headstock? That would give me a good reference measurement to compare to. Thanks!
  11. Sadly I got rid of my larger lathe last year, but no need to spin it. I pulled the headstock out to check it today and it turns out the pin is actually loose. Which explains both it not marking the bearing. I'm sleeping on the issue tonight but barring any suggestions from the experts here, I think I can formulate a good plan to install a new pin.
  12. No. Not that I can detect. It was spinning free, no visible marks... And truth be told it's very minor. Not much more than a burr that I could feel with my fingernail. Still I'd prefer it be smooth or even a tiny bit recessed.
  13. Thanks guys. Both books are on my wish list. I was curious about the pin b/c when the headstock was apart I noticed the pin was a tiny bit proud of the surface. No groove to turn it but it was obviously ground smooth. I was just debating what (if anything) I should do about it. It seems like the pin runs just at the back edge of the bearing but I'm not sure if its in the bearing or not..... Thanks again
  14. Quick question about the peerless headstock, is the collet keyway pin pressed or threaded into the headstock spindle? Thanks
  15. Thanks guys... Guess I didnt know I was kicking over a hornets nest with the oil question, but maybe I shoulda..... BTW, I know several of you said mineral oil, which I'm assuming is because that's what was available when the lathes were built. That's fine, but I'm wondering if the PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane... Silicone oil) I use on my other machines and firearms is safe for whatever the headstock pulley is made of? Its pretty great stuff for shear situations. But not everything is compatible with silicone and I'd be wary to find out the hard way.
  16. And thanks for all the links and videos JD. Still working on going through them. I'm more of a reader than a YouTuber these days, but I can usually find time during my lunch breaks for a video or two... By the way, I was surprised that with the stable of little machines in that picture you posted, none are sporting a compound slide. Any reason? Thanks!
  17. Thanks for the help. I actually had the headstock apart today and it's in very good shape. No visible wear, for that matter, no visible wear on the headstock pulley either. The lathe has patina for sure, but from a wear standpoint doesn't appear to have seen much use. I'll be surprised if it's Bakelite. It's hard, but feels like it deforms a little under my thumbnail when I press hard. You're right that it won't make a difference though. With the motor I'm using I probably won't ever need to use that notch! It just bothers me. I don't mind the putting on the chrome or other patina, but functional defects get under my skin. Here's the chip. I'll take better pictures once it's properly set up. Thanks again
  18. Ha! Thanks for the tip vin. I Didn't mention that my real job is occupational safety. JD, thanks for the info on the jackshafts. I don't think torque will be a problem with my motor. I def have enough to slip the belt under most circumstances. Have a good weekend all!span widget
  19. Thanks JD... And that's a lot of lathes! I guess it's not as bad as the heavy metal crowd that end up with sheds and garages full of full size shop lathes.... Tell me about the jackshafts that you're running on some lathes? Is that just to get a wider rpm range at the lathe head? Thanks again
  20. Hi all, first post and I have to admit to feeling a bit sheepish about being here. I'm not a watchmaker, and aside from a couple vintage inherited wristwatches (a mid century Rolex and a 70-80's vintage Omega) I'm really not even a watch afficianado (I know, gasp!). I'm a Jeweler and am in the process of setting up an old Marshall/Peerless 8mm lathe for jewelry and general use. I've had the thing for years and never bothered with it, but since getting rid of my larger lathes was a necessity when I combined households with my fiance, I figured it was time. I'm really excited about getting the lathe up and running, and I've scrounged enough tooling and accessories to get a good start. What I don't have is a good knowledge base of the care and feeding of the machine itself! I've done a "little" (pun intended) work on larger lathes, Mostly bushings and fittings for bikes and vintage cars; but I'm hardly a master machinist. Can anyone start me off with a few general tips and tricks and maybe help me avoid a few "shouldn't have done that" moments? Specific questions: What oil for the headstock bearings? Operating speeds (I'm using a vintage dental motor that goes to 10K rpm... I need to know where to limit it at) Belt tension? Most useful tools for general use (remember, I'm not a watchmaker.... my first project is going to be truing wheels on a pinewood derby car, and after that it will be mostly manufacturing my own jewelry findings) Places to shop for tooling and parts (other than ebay) The lathe is barely used, but some time in the past it got knocked around and theres a big chip in one of the pulleys on the headstock.... Does anybody know what the plastic/rubber compound is and/or is there a good way to repair/recast the broken part? Recommended books or operation manuals? Many thanks! Have a good weekend everyone Scott
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