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JohnR725

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  1. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from Nost in deformed hair spring   
    Googling I found you a PDF at the link below it's on page 16.
    Then I really should find you a picture of this but the other method is to not to remove the hairspring. Some companies Rolex for instance supplies special tools for this which were not going to have and are exceedingly expensive even if we did. So what they do is to push the staff out and once the staff is free of the balance wheel they continue to push the staff right through the Hairspring collet.
     
     
    http://www.awci.com/wp-content/uploads/ht/2006/2006-05-web.pdf
  2. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from Nost in deformed hair spring   
    Looking at your pictures I found what I was looking for so I've snipped out the interesting ones. Looking at the images attached you'll notice that your hairspring is touching the backside of the regulator pin. It also looks like your terminal curve is distorted. In the video I gave you he clearly shows how to make the terminal curve but you have to be careful in that each watch is different. So for that I went looking on eBay to see if anyone had nice picture is of a balance complete. Currently on eBay there are quite a few balance completes a couple have pictures this one was the nicest picture.
    Personally for fixing this I would do it in the watch. That's because the problem is in the watch. Looks like the balance complete has a nice gradual terminal curve which I think yours still has. The typical problem and it's the most common problem for watchmakers is distortion in the around the stud.
    The preferred method of practicing with the hairspring would be to practice on a disposable watch. Practice distorting the hairspring bending it then fixing the problem until you get good at it. But as there are replacement balance completes on eBay you can practice with this watch what's the worst you're going to do? I notice they even have movements on eBay.




  3. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to Nucejoe in first rebuild   
    Find tech terms by ETA in Eternaltools.com . 
  4. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to MIKED19551 in ETA/Unitas 6947   
    If you just want a movement to practice with I would suggest you purchase a Chinese clone movement. They are almost identical in construction and don't cost a fortune if you accidentally break something.
  5. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to nickelsilver in what do i do with my mainspring?   
    This is an automatic watch. You can replace the broken mainspring with an automatic spring, with integral slipping bridle (brake spring). Or you can use a standard spring with your separate brake spring.

    Either way you need to grease the barrel wall with braking grease.
  6. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to Nucejoe in deformed hair spring   
    Sounds like impulse jewel is not in beat.
    Do you know how check if impulse is in beat? 
  7. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to Nucejoe in deformed hair spring   
    Fault at impulse jewel. Loose, dirty, damaged impulse jewel.
    Did you see deftormity in HS coil or judging is based on erratic behaviour?
    You can observe behavior of the HS from the movement side.fouling itself, sticking, rubbing on the cock or balance spokes are observable,  if you can video record it, slow replay reveals more.
  8. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to jdm in Amplitude jumps up and down   
    You are just talking about a mov't not pimping counterfeiting. But, these are pretty bad to start with, one should be happy as long they run at all.
  9. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to oldhippy in My first watch service   
    Now you are getting a bit disrespectful. I have around 30 years experience as a watch/ clock maker, not just a repairer. In my days I could make watch parts and clock parts. Watching someone working is a good way of learning. It is not the same as doing it yourself. That is why learning on a practice piece is safe and as I have said it doesn't matter if mistakes are made. 
  10. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to oldhippy in My first watch service   
    A beginner should start with the basic movement and work up the ladder. Any thing other then basic should be practiced on with an old movement, so if it goes belly up it doesn't matter. Its common sense. 
  11. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to Pip in Can i trust these readings or is my Timegrapher broken?   
    Can you post what make and calibre of movement it is, then it’s quite simple to look up the lift angle in a lot of cases. Google for Lepsi Lift Angle and you’ll find lots of info.
     
    As for the lines, yep all looks normal (for a poorly running watch). I disagree slightly with some of the above as imho the BE of 1.4 is a bit too high. Sort out that (see if you can get it down to 0.5 or below) and regulate the watch a bit and see what lines you get, I think the amplitude reading is probably miscalculated as the BE and regulation are out. But it’s a good place to start from and I don’t ‘think’ there’s anything wrong with your machine.
     
     
     
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  12. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from MrRoundel in ETA 955.114, quartz movements in general?   
    As a reminder you need to pay attention to the data sheet when measuring electrical parameters of watches. For instance to measure coil resistance with the coil attached the meter cannot supply over  0.2 V otherwise the circuit may turn on and give a false reading. The data sheet says anything over 0.4 is unsuitable for measuring coil resistance. Normally when you're buying a meter you not paying attention to this. Occasionally some meters will have a diode symbol indicate though supply enough voltage to turn on a semi conductor device you can test.
    Then I'm attaching a PDF that explains about measuring current consumption. Whether it's an analog or digital meter you need either a capacitor or capacitor and a resistor to basically average the current consumption. When the watch is not driving the stepping motor it's drawing of a very tiny current. When it's driving the coil it's a very short high current pulse and the tech sheets have the average.
    microamp.pdf
  13. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to jdm in Help needed understanding ETA 2824-2 timing machine results   
    As mentioned above, the 2824-2 lift angle is 50°, see attached document. Many people makes no distinction between 2824 and 2824-2, which are different in that and few other details.
    _C_T_CT_2824-2_FDE_481688_24.pdf
  14. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from MrRoundel in Demagnetizer Recommendations   
    For anyone that's not sure how there supposed to be using the coil type demagnetizer this is what Omega recommends. Then even though it's in the picture I'm going to quote some text "Demagnetisation according to the three axes x, y and z is necessary when using this type of instrument. Do not release the instrument when the object is inside the tunnel as it could finish up being more magnetised than before." Then you will notice in the fine print a minimum of 50 cm away from the coil before you take your finger off the button and five seconds to get to the 50 cm. 

  15. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from MrRoundel in Demagnetizer Recommendations   
    The other thing that is needed when playing with magnets and watches is a way of figuring out if your watch really is magnetized or not.
    So there's the old-fashioned way with a compass image attached for how to do that. then a link to a free app for your phone from a company that wants to sell a really expensive demagnetizer.
    https://www.lepsi.ch/watch-demagnetizer/
     

  16. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to matabog in I'm so sad with my MS cleaning/oiling results!   
    maybe one needs a new MS, maybe the bridle lost it's hardness. 
    Use the old MS instead, the one that works.
    I don't think making the MS wall more rough is a good idea (in time)....
     
    What is the amplitude of the watch when the MS slips?
     
  17. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from jdrichard in Help with Lower Jewel fitting   
    Anytime were working with American pocket watches it's nice to have the serial number especially when looking for parts. Then because this is not your normal 12 size it's extra thin looks like you're right it's a friction jewel setting.  So image extracted from a listing so we get the diameter and the thickness. Then the other minor problem with Illinois all the different part numbers to make for a confusing mess.

  18. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from VWatchie in ETA 2892-A2 Automatic Works - what else can I do?   
    The watch companies are interesting ideally they would like you to replace the entire barrel. So for eta  no mention of mainspring lubrication at all. Omega is suggesting for the 1140 the mainspring is different then the eta  2892-A2.  The tech guide for the 3220 which I'm attaching gives a different newer number. Then with this number according to bestfit It will work in all those other watches none of which are a eta.   so there doesn't appear to be a cross reference listing between Omega and eta  suggesting there different mainspring is or just that we don't have a cross reference listing.
    Then the sending off those grooves and making a nice smooth barrel is not in your best interest if those were the grooves the factory put there in the first place. So lubrication guidelines images attached the recommended lubrication currently is KLUBER P125.  Then there recommending surface treatment which Omega's really big on for the entire  barrel other than the spring. Also the arbor is to be lubricated with HP 1300 which is the modern version of your D5. Also image attached if you purchased a brand-new barrel they do recommend lubricating the arbor from the outside.
    I'm attaching YouTube video links the first one is a test to see if your ball bearing assembly is working correctly. The second one explains what happens if the mainspring doesn't slip. Note the lubrication that he's using is different it's a Rolex lubricant none of us are ever going to get this and yes that is the proper quantity for the Rolex lubricant. Note do not apply that much lubrication if you're using something other then the Rolex lubricants you'll regret it. For instance if you use more of the P125  recommended you'll find out that it's a way way too sticky and it holds too well.
     
    770/282   MAINSPRING   722322020102
    OME 3220
    OME 1138
    OME 3602
    OME 1140
    OME 1141
    OME 1143
    OME 3601
    http://www.primrosesupplies.com/Swiss Tech Guides/Omega tech Guides/3220.pdf
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kafxnxt0EZY
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KNTrHVD088&t=




  19. Haha
    JohnR725 got a reaction from VWatchie in No BS Watchmaking. Any good?   
    No I think you're showing a poor attitude you'd have to keep up that enthusiasm and purchase one of these courses. That's because we would like the honest truth from somebody with experience as to what they think. A lot of times when newbies take courses like this there so dazzled and so impressed we don't get a real proper feel. 
     
  20. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from VWatchie in No BS Watchmaking. Any good?   
    If you look at all the marketing at least what we can see a heck of a lot of effort is put into this. But as the question was raised above it does make you wonder why we just get a first name? My first impression when I see something like this is to run away and assume it's a scam.
  21. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from MrRoundel in Quartz movement run and stop   
    The replacement movement was that purchased new from the material house or somewhere else?  Then for the 947 series there appears to be zero technical literature but it looks vaguely similar to the 944 series which came out in 1981. So no matter where you purchase this watch it's going to be need to be serviced. Quartz watches with gears are just like any other mechanical watch at some point in time they need servicing and keep the circuit or the plastic plate out of the cleaning fluid it looks like the watch has a lot of plastic at least for the mainframe.
  22. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from espenbd in Quartz movement run and stop   
    The replacement movement was that purchased new from the material house or somewhere else?  Then for the 947 series there appears to be zero technical literature but it looks vaguely similar to the 944 series which came out in 1981. So no matter where you purchase this watch it's going to be need to be serviced. Quartz watches with gears are just like any other mechanical watch at some point in time they need servicing and keep the circuit or the plastic plate out of the cleaning fluid it looks like the watch has a lot of plastic at least for the mainframe.
  23. Like
    JohnR725 reacted to diveboy in Value?   
    this kinda reads like a sale ? 
  24. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from Davey57 in Cartier Quartz dilemma   
    Typically with watches like this there is no tech sheets but I found the attached tech sheet on cousins. It's the only Cartier Tech sheet that they had. Unfortunately no parts list but it does have the electrical tests which is usually harder to find than the parts list.
    3982_Cartier 690.pdf
  25. Like
    JohnR725 got a reaction from MrRoundel in Cartier Quartz dilemma   
    Typically with watches like this there is no tech sheets but I found the attached tech sheet on cousins. It's the only Cartier Tech sheet that they had. Unfortunately no parts list but it does have the electrical tests which is usually harder to find than the parts list.
    3982_Cartier 690.pdf
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