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  1. Seems my options for this application are KT22 grease or 9104 in my possession. Would you guys say one is better? Also I already treated the reverser wheels with epilame. Doesn’t that mean the oil won’t spread over the teeth?
  2. Im working on this vintage 11ALACD. The diagram for the automatic mechanism is below. Do I oil the interface of the reverser wheels circled below? I read somewhere that I should treat the reverser wheels with epilame but I am not sure that applies here.
  3. I recently got one of these watches from the 60s. The dial and hands are in pretty good condition but the case is a disaster. It has what looks like rudimentary antishock mechanism. I am unable to find any historical information on the Chesterfield Watch Company that apparently made watches in France and used these Jeambrun movements. Does anyone know anything about them? Thanks! T
  4. Will do thanks. Anyone know why they chose a reverse thread on the arbor?
  5. What did you do with the ratchet wheel screw? Just super tighten it so that winding action couldnt loosen it?
  6. This is a 100011 Bulova movement from 1978 for a ladies watch. I noticed it has two reverse thread screws including the ratchet wheel! The click mechanism is also spring-less. I think the ratchet wheel touches the top surface of the click and drives it down when the wheel wants to unwind. When you wind the watch though the ratchet wheel obviously rotates opposite the thread of the ratchet wheel screw potentially loosening it. During me working on it has actually loosened. I guess the option is to really tighten it. Does anyone know why they made it like that?
  7. Looks like the GR 3267 is the right way to go Is anyone aware of a US based seller of GR mainsprings? Cousins UK is great but I prefer faster delivery times!
  8. Thanks guys, I have not used GR before. I see I have to request their catalog. While that happens what is your experience with their cost of mainspring and shipping to US? Edit: I realized it is their mainsprings I have been buying from Cousins this whole time.
  9. I think you meant to say not oiling them is incorrect right? Or that is alright and wont cause issues? Lots of negatives in there! It is nice to hear that 250 amplitude horizontal is acceptable. Ive always seen the statement "you should get at least 270 horizontal and 235 vertical on a near full wind". What would you say is acceptable for a vertical amplitude if you get 250 horizontal? I used the proper 10BM spring first (NOS) 4 x 11 x 11 1/2 (which is a 1.3 x 10) like this one and only got 250 out of it I then upped it to the next strength, a 4 x 10 x 11.5 (1.3 x 11) of the same size, like this one And it knocked. I was not able to find a 1.30 x 10.5 in between the two
  10. Hey guys. I am working on a Bulova movement from the late 40s. After oiling and cleaning and replacing with correct mainspring for the movement the watch knocks. The amplitude oscillates in a regular pattern by 10-20ish degrees but near the top will knock. I have not been able to find another mainspring that works (one that was weaker that I got was too weak and I only got 250 degrees out of it in horizontal) So I have been trying the remedies one sees online: underoiling the train, underoiling the escapement, and even oiling the pallet fork pinions but it all still knocks. I decided to remove the oil from the balance cap jewels and it got the amplitude down to a healthy 290 degrees. However is this an acceptable fix? Will the balance staff grind into the jewel without oil eventually? Or is it ok? Besides 9010 and 9415 I have some old Mobius Clock Oil 3 which I assume is thicker than the 9010. I haven't tried it yet but I assume any oil on the balance will get it knocking again. Is it worth trying it with the #3 or is leaving the balance jewels dry acceptable? Thanks
  11. Thanks everyone. I have been using Pec Pads for that but they unfortunately do shed sometimes.
  12. A tool lot auction I got off ebay included a box of 1000 Dennison Excelsior Watch Papers. Does anyone know what they were used for?
  13. Thanks everyone. I am leaning towards leaving it be. The regular amplitude variation is a lot better than when I got it.
  14. I recently serviced a Bulova 10BM from a 1917-H US Military Watch and cant decide if I need to redo it. The amplitude is solid but the rate is rather eratic over long periods like 14 hours. The watch has ran for several days now after servicing This first reading starts a little bit after a full wind (so maybe it is caused by the mainspring weirdness that happens at full wind) and goes for 13 hours This second one is somewhat later and covers 6.5 hours of run time. The rate is steadier but still has the 10 second deviations jumps. Would you be satisfied with this for a watch from the late 40s/early 50s? I know a lot of people dont do long term measurements like this so am I just over analyzing it?
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