Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About patchwerk

  • Rank
  1. I should have checked its thickness first thing and just assumed it was right because it looked like a automatic mainspring in good shape.
  2. So I changed out the mainspring and amplitude is 280 now. The mainspring that was in there was .06mm thick...so half as thick as it should have been. I cant imagine why anyone would put one like that in there.
  3. I am using watch-o-scope and verified with a slomo video on my phone I am using L&R extra fine cleaning and rinse solution at 15-30 then 3 minutes. I pegged the jewels again and polished the pallet fork pivots to make it more more freely. The fork does snap but the little sound it makes isnt as loud as I am used to in other watches. I also polished the barrel holes to allow freer movement of the barrel arbor When the train is free spun with pressure on the barrel it spins down very slowly but does not recoil. In fact tapping the movement when it stops makes it spin a little
  4. Was literally doing that when you posted that. Hairspring looks perfect. Jewel holes seem good at inspection but I will take the train apart and inspect each one next.
  5. I cleaned the balance assembly again and made sure it was dry with no coils touching. Same result. I did do a round of pegging during precleaning and the pallet fork moves freely (falls up and down when I tilt the watch). Top barrel bridge bushing is not worn and the barrel doesn't wobble. The bottom one is jeweled. I will do another inspection of the train and jewels. I am still interested in whether alloy mainspring can become weak. I feel I have seen several watchguy.co.uk jobs where he changes the alloy mainspring for whatever reason.
  6. I have cleaned it L&R cleaning and rinse but could give it another wash.
  7. I am servicing a 2638 from the 60s. I have the done the full clean and lubricate (epilame, train, escapement, braking grease, balance caps). I cleaned and pithed the train twice. The movement is in good condition and the train wheels spin very freely, and the balance is spins freely as well. Yet I am only get 180 degrees amplitude. This is without the calendar works engaging as well. The endshake seems fine and I even made an aluminum foil shim to add just a little but it didnt help. I feel like I have eliminated many options but still cant figure it out. My question is could it be the alloy m
  8. Here are vids at almost full wind. Video Oct 08, 7 21 24 PM.mov Video Oct 08, 7 20 45 PM.mov
  9. I am servicing a UG42 in pretty good condition. After cleaning and oiling the watch runs great...except that the rate changes over the course of the power reserve rather than staying relatively stable. Also, it goes up with amplitude which is the opposite of what I am used to. Usually rate goes down with amplitude. What can cause this? I have charted the rate at different parts of the wind with the corresponding amplitude to demonstrate. At near full wind it runs with 305 degrees and +44 seconds. At near end of the power reserve at 200ish the watch is close to 0 seconds. What with th
  10. I also sent an email to peter of vintagelongines.com and it seems my hunch may have been right. His response: "Your conclusions are all true. I have a ref 8066 watch that also hascal. 505 movement with cal. 501 stem. If you replace the stem by a cal505 stem, the quick-set date function will work but there will be a gapbetween the case and the crown and the watch will look as if the crownis pulled out.I was thinking about this issue when I met this problem first. I guessthat Longines stopped producing cal 501 after cal 505 was introduced.However, it still received orders for former mode
  11. I am working on a Longines 505 movement (which is the quickset date version of the 501) from a 8294-2 case. I noted that the quickset function did not seem to work due to the stem and case/crown interface preventing it. I figured maybe someone in the past fit it with a 501 stem on accident. However when I took a closer look at the technical manual vintagelongines.com it says under the Cal 505 section that for certain case number (including my 8294-2) that a regular non quickset 501 stem should be used. Does this mean that Longines used quickset movements on cases that did not support it? I hav
  12. When I take the second pinion out the wheels do spin freely and recoil a bit. i get an amplitude closer to 235 in horizontal with the second pinion out. It makes sense to me that it is a "high" friction interaction between it and the center wheel. When I have it in I have to turn the crown the slightest amount to overcome that friction for the wheels to start turning. The tension spring is properly adjusted as well... this is all to say that while I do plan on trying the trick with the string thread through the center wheel to get it cleaner for the second pinion...I do not see it as the
  13. What do you guys think about the condition of these faces?
  14. Yes in my original post I mentioned I tried two new mainsprings an omega 1208 and a GR equivalent. How does this lock look?
  15. Hey guys. After ultrasonically cleaning/rinsing and assembling this Omega 601 movement in seemingly good condition I am getting great rate but amplitude of about 220 in horizontal positions. I have done the following: pegged all jewel and non-jeweled holes polished train, pallet, and balance pivots treated pallet and escape wheel with epilame tried swapping the bottom and top balance incabloc jewels oiled with moebious oils including the escapement (no oil on pallet pivots) tried two mainsprings, an original Omega one and a GR equivalent. checked the sweep second mechanism (r
  • Create New...