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About Wiseman501

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  • Location
    Maryland, United States
  • Interests
    Jewelry, Gemology, Horology, Engraving, Lapidary work, neat tools.

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  1. JDM, Thank you very much for being available. I will definitely look to you if I need to go that route. I didn't realize that you were (I presume) studying watchmaking? What school or mentor are you working with? My tools and materials order just came in and I am about to make an attempt at two re-pivots, and if that fails, attempt the whole shebang, just thought I would bump the thread to let you guys know I'm getting started with it. I'll be photographing and logging everything in case of success or setback. After what I've done in the past, and with your collective input, I feel my chances are good. I'll keep you updated.
  2. Yeah the old watchmakers would often specialize in one aspect of the total timepiece and make the same parts all day, every day, finely tuning their hands, much like stone setters, engravers and so on in jewelry production. This is still the case in some of the big name facilities. These days the market has forced many solo watch makers and repairers to either become generalists or be dissuaded from going very deeply because of the vast rabbit holes in the trade. As for the ruby cylinder, that sounds like a dragon to kill another day. The extent of my ability to cut anything like corundum is entirely in the realms of gem faceting. I think my best course of action will be to attempt a re-pivot on the tampons, and if that fails I can still punch them out of the cylinder and turn some new ones. Of course, we'll see if any of that works, but I think it's a good opportunity to learn a few things while I have a patient and understanding customer. Thanks again, guys! -Dylan
  3. JohnR725, thank you for sharing these awesome links! JDM, I will definitely let you know if I am unable to make one; I told my client about the situation and he's alright to wait a little longer so I can give it a shot. I'll be in touch if it doesn't go smoothly. I appreciate all your help, guys! Keep up the awesome community! -Dylan
  4. Hey, Chris! Welcome to the forum! We're all learning every day, so ask away. So it sounds like you have positional error caused by a damaged balance staff, combined with possibly oil travel to the hairspring or magnetization causing two of the loops of the spring to stick together, thus shortening its travel time. When it's face-down, the pivot is gone so it grinds to a stop, face-up it goes too fast because of the hairspring. If you have a microscope, carefully take off the balance cock/bridge, take a look and see how the pivots of your balance staff look. If there are no tiny projections to rest in the jewels or bushings, you have a messed up staff. While you have it apart, also take a look at your balance jewels and make sure there is no damage. I don't know the make and model you're working with, so there are a million ways it can go, but that's my instinct for now. Let me know what you find out, and good luck! If you need any step-by-step instructions, feel free to post photos or movement info so we can give you precise help. Just take it slow, respect the timepiece, and keep your tweezers and screwdrivers sharp. We're here to help.
  5. Thanks for the reply, Nickelsilver! After I posted, I imagined that the cylinder may have been a separate component made with a little tube-like segment... Couldn't figure out any other way. Thanks for the correct terminology for my research. I feel confident in my lathe skills, but it sounds like this is more a labor of love thing. I work professionally, so I only love it so much. I do want to make an attempt though. As a teacher, do you think it is too much of a hack job to catch the center and drill a new seat in the old tampon, then glue in a new steel pivot? If the end result is likely to be way off anyway...? I will put it back under the scope and also do some reading on my own while I wait for your reply, but I don't think I have anything like what you mentioned in either of my old staking sets. Since you say the tools often need to me made anyway, I'll need to find some photos and/or diagrams if I follow that path. Thanks again for your quick reply. Much appreciated.
  6. Hey guys! Long time no talk. I've got a cool little Argent Dore silver guilloche ladies' pocket watch with a broken balance staff. Now, if this was a modern one, I would just turn a new one, but I thought I would seek some guidance on this one to be safe, because I'm not experienced at cutting this style, so my question is; Should I try to turn a new one (How do I make the roller/impulse recess bit?), re-pivot this one, or is there a wonderful place to order one to specs? lol. I am including a photo from my potato-quality microscope camera to show the type of staff it is. Measurements on request. I considered leaving it in the balance wheel and attempting a re-pivot on both ends, but I appreciate all the input you have. Antique watch restoration is fun, but quite an adventure sometimes. Thanks for reading!
  7. Good point about the hairspring. I guess I didn't think of that because he says it's such a regular period between issues. A hairspring wouldn't initially come to mind as something that regular over so many seconds... -_(^_^)_- At any rate, now he has some good info to go on. I look forward to seeing where this goes. Good luck, OP!
  8. Well... It may be true that the variations may be within tolerance for most horological applications, but it depends heavily on what device you're using and how it allocates processing time. There IS an undeniable fluctuation, even if it's by a fraction of a millisecond on a good device. At least at the time I researched this and compared a dedicated timing machine and PC based software to an app on a phone, it gave conflicting results and the general consensus was that the technology was a decent indicator, but not precise enough to beat the other options. I mentioned it mainly as a trivial addition to the knowledge base since it may come in handy sometime. I didn't do it to rain on anyone's picnic.
  9. Thanks Nucejoe! I've enjoyed reading the public posts for a while so I know I'll like it here. The NAWCC message boards are sometimes a little ranty when certain people start having "friendly" disagreements on technique or tools. Lol.
  10. Hi guys. My name is Dylan Tilley and I recently joined WRT after ages of lurking. I've been a watchmaker, jeweler, and gemologist for several years now and still love learning new things. I'll do the best I can to be a contributing member of this great forum when I'm online and if anyone needs something I can offer, feel free to reach out. See you around the forums!
  11. Yeah the escape wheel is one place I'd look for sure.
  12. Oh okay. Thanks for clarifying. I look forward to seeing the photos. I'm not familiar enough with the movement to say exactly what the problem is with my current info, but we'll get to the bottom of it. I also want to mention that sometimes the apps on phone based timeghraphers aren't necessarily processing the sound at the exact time the sound is made. The processors do one thing at a time, and the app waits for a time slot to move to the next function as the phone is running all of its OS programs.. This can make timegrapher apps act oddly unless you have a "real time OS" as on a laptop or desktop. Does the watch have the same pattern on a different timegrapher? And can you audibly hear anything different during these cycles?
  13. You're way out of beat by the looks of it. Make sure the impulse jewel is lining up between the banking pins dead center so it falls on the straight line between the balance staff and the pallet fork pivot. You can do this by adjusting the hairspring collet or, if you have one, a beat correcting lever similar to a regulating lever. I don't know what is causing the intermittent erratic behavior, but I have a hunch that it may be a gear tooth that is having issues, or the watch is overbanking somehow. Start by getting in beat and inspect your escape wheel.
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