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  1. A Photo of the back panel. Still assuming it’s a copy, but hoping not.
  2. Thanks for the reply. The pictures don’t do it justice, it’s quite shiny and appears very well made. There’s a serial number on the back, but I wouldn’t know the difference between a good movement and a cheap one if I’m honest, so I’ll assume it’s not genuine. It cost less than a tenner on eBay as nobody else bid on it. Once again, thanks for your help, I’ll check the link (no pun intended)
  3. I picked up a lovely Rado watch for my wife which I need to resize the bracelet on, but I can’t see any pins or slides. I bought it online and the seller had listed it just as a lady’s watch with a very bad photo, so I took a chance and got what is a bargain if it’s a copy and a massive result if it’s real. At first glance it looks very well made, the bracelet clasp is well engineered and there is a serial number on the back. What I need to know is firstly how to adjust the bracelet and secondly, how to tell if it’s genuine or not. Thanks in advance for any suggestions at advice. Alan.
  4. Thanks again for the replies. I’d arrived at the “drill it out” solution but I’m still reluctant in case I can’t get the stub out. I suppose, worse case it may end up with 3 screws holding the back on which isn’t the end of the world. I hope it only needs a battery. Cheers.
  5. Thank you for the reply. Its a bit of an odd solution, but I wonder if anyone has tried solder to build up the screw or even soldering a screwdriver to the screw to gain grip. I’ve got a colleague who can solder joints that I can barely see, so if it’s worth trying, I know just the man to ask. Good idea, or not?
  6. That should ready “Any suggestions”. Not sure what spellchecker was up to, but clearly not scratch. Cheers.
  7. Hi. I picked up a fossil watch for a couple of pounds that hopefully only needs a battery, but one of the screws on the back is almost rounded off and doesn’t want to budge. What’s the best way to deal with this? The case is plastic so the screw is not rusted in. I’ve resisted the temptation to put any sort of lubricant on it until I know what I’m doing. Spa you suggestions would be gratefully received. Thanks, Al.
  8. Thanks. definitely 715. I've seen these movements on ebay for about £5 or £6. Is that right, are they that cheap? I saw the same watch sell for about £25, so it's obviously not worth spending a lot on, but I'd rather repair it even if I spend a disproportionate amount of time on it. I assume it's not difficult to remove the wider? Thanks again.
  9. Thank you for your reply. Now I know why you need a good magnifying glass. I thinks it’s 715, but I’ll know when the new loupe arrives in the post.
  10. Edit. The watch is a Zeitner Aqua Sport Z2000M.
  11. Hi. I’m new to the forum. My wife and I have 60 or more watches between us, so I replace the batteries and straps myself to save on cost and weekly visits to the jewellers. I repair laptops for a living and I’ve decided to tackle some of the non working watches in our collection that may need more than just a battery. Thanks in advance for any advice, I’ll try not to ask too many stupid questions.
  12. Hi. I'm new to the forum. I have a modest collection of watches that we've bought over the years. One is a Zeitner Aquagraph that was opened up to replace the battery, which was subsequently lost before the replacement battery was ordered. The movement appears to have the name Ronda on it and looks gold plated. What I need to know is what size battery this takes and if that's not the problem, is the movement worth replacing? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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