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Moose

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Everything posted by Moose

  1. Under magnification, I can see that the catch on the arbor is Badly worn, and slips out of the notch on the spring when under tension. So I’ll get that replaced as well. Thanks for the tips.
  2. Hi All. Can anyone confirm if the mainspring on this movement is wound in the barrel left or right handed please? I am a hobbyist repairer and I know it come out left-handed, but the replacement springs are all set for a right handed insertion. I just want to confirm that I need to re-insert the spring with coloured side down (i.e. left handed not right). Many Thanks.
  3. Not sure mine is the same as either of the ones I have. The first one I have (with the Bakelite case, is soldered to the bezel ring and the bezel ring is riveted (nailed) to the case. My oak cased one also looks a bit different to yours, but here it is anyway as there may be some similarities...
  4. UPDATE (Final) After a couple of trial uses, everything works. But as we are in lockdown and I have much time on my hands (and I was already thinking about a Mark 2 version), I wanted to make a few modifications. So - This is not exactly a Mark 2 but a Mark 1.1 CHANGES: Changed the shaft to hex bar. Changed the chuck to smaller version to allow working with smaller barrel springs and also to facilitate connection to hex bar shaft. Make the ratchet spanner more integral to the design and lock securely in place. I also provided an additional safety bar, which can be extended to hold the winder handle, instead of just relying on the ratchet. For example: when inserting or removing main spring sleeves. I had to saw down one of my ratchet spanners to use in this way, but the result justifies it (in my view). It is secured by a rebated wooden block which is screwed to the base, and then reinforced (and also as a cosmetic touch) adding a piece of aluminium profile, separately screwed into place. I think that's all for now. It's been a fun build and I have learned a lot along the way. Maybe it does not need to be quite so long now - For example, I don't really need the central bit supporting the axle. But it's staying the way it is, until maybe I get bored again. Then - Mark 2! But for now, I have a Roamer in bits and the spares have arrived today, and an old Hamilton Pocket watch that a good friend is sending to me, to have a look at. So I'll be plenty busy for a bit. Stay busy - Stay well - STAY IN.
  5. Some answers... I flip the ratchet just by using the switch on the spanner: it works just fine. As for the sleeves, that isa good question. I measure that the sleeve for a Smiths barrel should fit ok. Anything smaller will likely not, but I am only targeting Smiths clocks for now. it’s not just the friction of the nuts, but they have some threadlok added, a fairly strong one, but one which could be removed if I needed to. One of the issues I had was obtaining some hex bar stock. This is certainly on the radar for a Mark 2 version, but it will also necessitate changing the chuck end as well, so that will also need consideration. All in all, I have the strength required for the use that I intend putting it to. Likely only one Smiths clock or less per month.
  6. To get back onto clock related stuff, here are the pics that luiazazrambo requested...
  7. Hi watchweasol. I live nearer the coast, in Hickling (on the Broads). Lovely place. I'll probably use the tried and trusted method of a gate hook as well. I made sure that mainspring barrel could just be rotated in it's "cassette" once the ring was out, to use as a pivot for the arbor. Just pull the cassette out, flip it front-to-back and reinsert. Don't get me started on scrap wood and stuff in sheds. My last two projects were for a man-cave bar I'm currently building from scrap pallets. I have included a couple of pics of some "accessories" I hope I don't get shot by the mods for straying off topic. If you look, you can see the pallet off-cuts. Apologies, if not appropriate.
  8. Thanks for the comments luiazazrambo, much appreciated. But it’s just a “mash up” from bits of stuff I had about the place, with very few bought in bits, nuts and bolts mainly. I’m still rummaging around for something to fabricate a hook to retain the spring, so when I’m down there I’ll take a few more shots for you. Raining here at the moment (North Norfolk), so got a few jobs around the house lined up as well. And we recently were told we have at least another three weeks of “lockdown”, so plenty of time for experimental work as well. Keep safe.
  9. Hi. It was off a Bosch drill. The drill had a twist-lock chuck on it as standard, but came with the normal chuck as an accessory in the box. I never did use it but kept it in the spares box. Must have had it for over 10 years before I finally got around to finding a use for it. Never throw anything away..
  10. Yeah, I did think a lot about the hex rod idea and rebating in the ratchet handle. But I already had a spare chuck which needed a threaded fixing, so I just used threaded stock rod, so it was the easy way out for me. like you though, Mark 2 (should it come to light), will have that refinement. I quite like the Franke design, so would likely head more towards that. Thanks for the comments.
  11. Did most of the work now and it’s looking OK. Still need to fit the spring retaining hook and I’m waiting for delivery of a set of Main spring sleeves, which I should get early next week off eBay. I guess it’s a sort of mashup of the Franke and Olly Baker designs. I used a ratcheting ring spanner to hold the spring tension whilst winding. The threaded axle just passes through it and I used a pair of nuts to transfer the rotational movement. I can reverse the direction of the ratchet very easily by flicking the ratchet over. I took this from the Franke design but did not want to go to the hassle of rebating the ratchet into the woodwork, so just used a bar to prevent the ratchet handle rotating. The bar design also allows the axle to slide back and forth whilst attaching etc. I think for a “Mark 1”, it’s OK and certainly does the job. Will likely be all I need as a hobbyist anyway. If I was to change anything, I might change the axle to a hex bar (like Franke) and fit the ratchet so it looks integral to the design. But that would mean having to source a new chuck design as my existing chuck screws directly onto the threaded axle so I would need a different solution. Or just use sockets, like the Franke. Anyway, there it is, back to watch repairing: the parts for my vintage Roamer Superking are with me now...
  12. You are correct - the wood is a left over from a decking project. It is very heavy duty, about 30mm thick, so provides a stable and heavy base. Don’t have a router, but used a small table saw to make the channel for the centre panel and to cut the step for the butt joint at the end. It’s coming along today as well. Maybe another pic later today.
  13. A little bit more completed. Got the holder for the barrel sorted as well as it’s slide mount. Also the spindle holders for the winder/unwinder. Now going to look at how to recreate the reverser/ratchet mechanism. May just do it the same way as the Franke design, seems most convenient. Anyway - it seems we have another three weeks of lockdown as yet to Continue to experiment and build. I may yet shorten the winding side once I have the ratcheting mechanism sorted out. It’s looking a bit long now.
  14. Well, I’m starting to get some work done on a basic winder, for the hobby stuff I’ll be doing. This is midway through doing some of the basic cuts and planning. I’ll call this my Mark 1 once it’s done. It’s taking the Franke design as it’s basis.
  15. That’s great, watchweasol. I have seen something with a similar arrangement on eBay. Yours looks easier to fabricate with a bit of diy skill. its definitely something I would have a go at, so I might well have a look in the workshop to see what materials I can use. Many thanks and, what a well equipped workshop you have. Thanks Bod, also.
  16. The main plates have a lacquer coating. If you are too aggressive when cleaning, you can wear it off, in which case it may end up not looking too good without complete removal. Its not always there, but I was told to expect it on nearly all old Smiths. I learned the hard way, with an old Smiths car clock. After normal cleaning in my cleaning machine, you could see a lot of the lacquer had dissolved, leaving a messy looking set of plates, which then all had to be completely cleaned.
  17. I would be interest in seeing the picture, if you don't mind. I found something suitable on eBay and thought I could replicate it with some ratchet spanner's etc. I don't mind a bit of DIY'ing (specially whilst we are in "lockdown").
  18. Thanks. Both are good tips. I’ll try them next time. I have another coming hopefully this week. I seem to have bought another non-runner. the first one is currently running at about plus 15 seconds a day, and I’m very happy how the repair worked out. It has not run down on a full wind yet, so I don’t know how worn the springs are, but things are certainly looking good.
  19. It’s quite straightforward but can take a little effort. There is a little cut out in the lid. Firstly, make a small mark on the side of the barrel that corresponds with the location on the cut out. This will be used to re align the lid when replacing it. then, take a strong screwdriver that will fit into the cutout and use that to carefully lever the lid off. You will need to be careful not to damage anything and you will likely find that it will take a fair bit of effort to get the cover off, as they are typically a tight fit.
  20. I agree totally, better to use a winder if one is available. I will get one if my interest in clocks increases. Right now, i concentrate more on watches, so have more tools for that. Good luck and thanks for your comments.
  21. Lovely clock. I have another coming now as well, this time in an oak case. You don’t need a mainspring winder, its easy enough by hand. I recommend some strong gloves and eye protection. Then I just remove the barrel arbor and take hold of the barrel in one hand making sure you are covering the outer coils of the spring with your thumb or fingers. Then with the other hand, use some pliers to slowly pull out a few of the centre coils, enough so you can take hold of them. Then, slowly begging to unwind the spring from the barrel very carefully. Tere is a fair bit on energy even in this unwound state, so take your time until it is all out. This is why you need sturdy gloves and eye protection, it case you let go and the spring suddenly releases. finally, you will be able to unhook the spring from the tag inside the barrel. Putting it back is simple the reverse of the above. Someone on here may have pictures, but I’m sure you can figure it out. Just take care not to bend or catch the spring on the edge of the barrel, as it could fracture and eventually break in service.
  22. Many thanks again. did not take long to find the problem. The hour wheel carrying the snail was not correctly adjusted. It was 1 tooth retarded. With the little bit of play that is present (mostly gear backlash) sometimes it would be positioned correctly, sometimes not, hence the erratic chime behaviour. Advancing the hour gear one tooth corrected the problem and now it’s correct across all 12 hour positions. all back together now and its back to regulating. Many Thanks.
  23. I should get it out tomorrow and watch the mechanism properly as it advances.
  24. Continued thanks to all here for the kind words. i still have a bit of fettling to do yet. It’s timekeeping is good so far, at a steady rate of 4 mins per 24 hours. So that just needs a bit of patience with the regulating screw, I have no issue with that. the bit that’s giving me a bit of a head scratch is the chime... I have noticed one or twice that it can chime the wrong number. So for example - 1.00 it chimed once. 2.00 it chined twice.3.00 it chimed three. THEN, 4.00 it chimed five. 5.00 it chimed six times. i had not done anything in the meantime - its cased. i can understand the mechanism enough to get how it might be out all the time, but not correct three times in a row, then go wrong. Maybe an issue with the snail, so I will have to have a closer look and see if I can get to the bottom of it.
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