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  1. Thanks for the answer. I am measuring 31.45 mm in the case recess. What i think is not normal is the crystal i purchased to being smaller in bottom ring (31.35 mm) compared its overall and avvertised diameter of 31.60 mm, but since it comes with a perfectly fitting tension ring at 31.35, i wonder... Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
  2. Hi I am trying to place a new crystal on an Omega 166.041 case. Original crystal is no more available. Measurement internal is 31.45 mm I sourced on Cousins a not original replacement crystal for the movement, the site recommended part code G22740 which is reported 31.60 mm diameter and 4.10 mm height My surprise is that if I measure the crystal is in fact 31.60 mm but if I measure it at the very base where is the tension ring it is just 31.35 mm So, once I place the crystal on the case, it drops in and there is nothing to push in place! What am I doing wrong? Or just the crystal is not doing it's job? Is any seal needed? Shall I have to purchase an original PX5005 or maybe I can have more luck with a lower profile 3.85 mm part code G22742 ? Help me please! It's my very first crystal refitting so no experience... Bonus question: Will I have any chance pressing the crystal by hand or should I really invest in a crystal press? Thank you!!
  3. Hi All! I'm looking for an Omega Seamaster Chronograph case 168.035, or a good priced watch for spares. Any suggestion where to find one? Thanks! Ascanio
  4. Job done and turned out quite ok, not perfect but ok. Transplant of hour hand over a GMT hand was successful. Yes I used Loctite which is very clean and precise, but drawback is zero repositioning chance. Since I don't need Loctite strength on such operation, in case I would ave to do it again I think I will try a more gentle glue. It would have been better to reposition the hand 1/2 mm and having some black paint to fix the GMT round part which is chrome instead of matt black. I had to sandpaper the height of the tube part of the GMT hand which was quite long, like 1.5 mm to 1 mm (it came from Rolex replacement hand set with 1,8mm exact width). That part went well and easy. Actually I finally found the real issue: the dial center hole was too tight to take into account the 24H wheel of the ETA 2893-2 movement so I had to broach it to more than 2 mm diameter. Clearly it was not designed to use the 24H wheel, so for sure the original watch movement would have been a modified ETA 2893-2 to use the regular hour wheel. In case anybody has any information on this modification with standard (not custom build) parts, I would be interested to hear. However at the end the watch is running smooth since a few days and I am very happy with it! Have a great day! Ascanio
  5. Well, as an update on the subject, after disassembly and a few trials, it seems just the hour hand broached from 1.5 to 1.8 mm is not really stable as the pipe basically disappears (it's too thin to make a real grip). As 1.8mm watch hands are very rare, now the plan is purchase one pocket watch 1.8mm hand, and "innest" (cut and glue) on it my original hour hand. If I can do a decent job, it should be it. I hate mentioning "glue" but i would not solder due to discolouration from heat.
  6. All worked out very smooth! Broaching was indeed very very light operation! I imagined to have done nothing instead it made an impressive difference just at the first fitting test! Actually I found out the rotor was very stable but still touching on the bottom tip, so I thought it was also bent, so I put it on an anvil and gently hammered it flat. Most likely the movement was damaged by a fall or something, and was bent both the stud and the rotor. Now problem fixed! The rotor is now very solid and not touching, no metal noise while revolving. I'm very happy and satisfied with the result. I could not find the pointed side document indicated by John searching online, it would be an interesting reading for me as I am try to focus on these lovely movements. Maybe is kind of a reserved document available only to Omega trained watchmakers? Again thanks for the very insightful suggestions, I learned a lot and I will make good use of this knowledge. Ascanio
  7. Uhm... I have given a second look and deeper thought to the movement tech sheet. The movement came with the 24H wheel (251) in a plastic bag. I did just place the wheel on top of the hour wheel 2558 without oiling the sides of 2558! Could this be the reason? Should I now expect the 251 being damaged with many broken teeth? And maybe even the mating gear which I cannot understand from the drawing what it is? Stupid me! Now I cannot service/open the watch for one week or so. I assume to reduce damages, as it is still geared up, I can keep it in 2nd stem out position so it's hacked and nothing is supposed to move inside, am I right?
  8. Thank you for all precious information! I feel now fully equipped to bring this lovely movement back into a case! I can't wait to be back at my bench in one week from now I'll post the progress. Happy Easter everyone! Ascanio
  9. Hi! I made a video about what happens when I try to set the time, which I think it's more meaningful. During normal operation it just happens that the GMT/Hour hand remains stopeed while minute and second hands keeps running keeping good time. Please don't get mad at me as I have build such thing with parts sourced on the Internet, I am going to love this watch and I build it just for my personal enjoyment, not to resale or stuff. Thanks!
  10. Hi again! I really love the idea of a 24h watch and I wanted to build it. I know it's not the proper way, "pure" as it is referred to, but I used an ETA 2893-2 movement using the GMT hand as my hour hand, it's a bit tricky to set properly but the final result is actually good I think. I had to broach the hour hand hole from 1.5mm to 1.8mm, I think I did it good enough and I think i placed the hands properly. The movement was brand new and purchased from reliable source. Problem: My GMT/Hour hand stops! I notice it remains stuck at some position, but if I place the crown in first stop and rotate to adjust the GMT, it jumps forward. Also if I pull it to 2nd stop and adjust time, the GTM/Hour rotates following the minute hand properly until it stops at some places and then I can rotate minutes full circle many rounds and GMT remains stopped... if then I gently move minute hand back and forward (!) a few times it starts moving again for a while then stops again... I will double check if GMT hand is well fixed, but I think so, and I don't think it conflicts with minute hand. I am afraid of other troubles with the movement. Possibly I made some damages in pushing the hands or something... or the GMT wheel does not gear properly... I did not study how 2893-2 internally works yet to find possible explanation for this sad behaviour, but I am very concern about the watch running with one gear stopped. Also if there is any trick about using standard hour wheel for 24h operation instead of using GMT, it's welcome: I know some 24h watches use this movement using regular hour hands instead of GMT, but most likely they have modified wheel train which can not be purchased as standard pieces. Thank you!! Ascanio
  11. Hi Watchweasol and thank you for your suggestion. I will try what you propose when I will get back to my bench in a week or so. I am afraid current axale + rotor pinion is anyhow a bit loose and there is quite some play, so ideally I did not dislike the idea of a tighter fit, so if trying to straight the old axale will not provide good result I will be back to the idea to broach the hole (pinion?) of the rotor. Is this advisable to do it by hand without a staking tool? Now that I better understand the role of the 550.1451 locking, i woudl assume it is safe enough... Thanks again, nice to be in this forum Ascanio
  12. Hi! This is my first post just after the quick introduction one . I did purchase an Omega 565 movement but I have noticed the rotor is touching the watch in its round moves. I did conclude (!) the rotor axale is a bit bent so I decided to purchase a spare part 550.1400 (Rotor Axale) and replaced it. Surprisingly the rotor now fits very very tight and it's very hard to rotate (it would never turn by gravity alone). I did read that the rotor axale 550.1400 and the pinion in the rotor need to be broached/mated, but I did not expect a new axale and an used (and possibly worn out) pinion would match so tight to not to move. Question: do I really have to broach the pinion of the rotor so it can move freely? And can I do it with a manual broaches without a staking tool (which I did not purchase yet...)? I am a bit scared as still I did not fully understand what prevents the rotor to fall off the axale, I suspect it's the gib 550.1451 but it is not clear from the exploded view at page 10 of manual of calibre 551 which I use for reference... Thank you!! Ascanio
  13. Hello from Florence & Tourin! I started watchmaking as hobby a few months ago, as I am commuting weekly between Florence and Tourin, I have made this my Tourin hobby and I am filling up my apartment with more and more tools... you know how it goes I spent nights watching videos and I just had to register to the forum! See you around. Cheers.
  14. Hello from Florence & Tourin! I started watchmaking as hobby a few months ago, as I am commuting weekly between Florence and Tourin, I have made this my Tourin hobby and I am filling up my apartment with more and more tools... you know how it goes I spent nights watching videos and I just had to register to the forum! See you around. Cheers.
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