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Everything posted by Gabe90

  1. Guys, Apologies for the late reply, I was quite busy in the last couple of weeks and not much has been done since. I designed a mainspring winder as they are quite pricy. But I stuck in a bit as I've been waiting for weeks now to get 3d printed by a friend. Until today, as finally, I persuaded my wife about 3d printers so I ordered my first entry-level machine. (Cetus mk3) Also, I'm not sure how to deal with the worn dials. Recently, I've seen Mark's video how he printed his own dial designs. So I am going to try that way and keep the original dial in case I decide to sell the watch. First of all, I had to make a plain replacement dial with the holes and legs. The surface still needs to be polished before anything is attached. I also checked the small minute hand. This can also prove how amateur I am in watchmaking. Delgetti, exactly as you said. Part of the minute hand stuck on the pivot of the 4th wheel so hard that I am still surprised by how I could manage to remove it without breaking the pivot. In regard to the pin, I found its exact location, in the keyless work right underneath the setting lever. The setting lever is quite loose now even if it was not removed or loosened over the cleaning. I remember it was not wobbling at all. So, I assume that the pin adjusts the hight of the setting lever and also makes less friction as the lever comes into contact only with the top of the pin while it slides. Any ideas how to fit it back? I can set how much it has to stick out because there are marks on the pin. But should I solder? I'm afraid of damaging other features on the plate. I have another silly question about oiling the movement. Would it be acceptable to use 8300 natural grease where 9501 synthetic grease is advised (keyless work etc.)? In the future, I will need to buy some but now I spent way too much on this project. Sorry for the novel. Guys, your experience, knowledge and help are highly respected and much appreciated. Thank you,
  2. Hi Gents, Currently, I try to recondition a 1970 Regency chronograph with a Landeron 248 movement. Everything is going fine so far. Ordered new mainspring, glass, gasket and pushers as they were a bit stiff. The case itself has been replated as it was also quite worn. I dismantled the whole movement and this is where I have some problem and I would like to ask more experienced members' opinion as I am only a novice. Straight to the issue, I could not remove the 4th wheel. For me, it seems that the bottom of the 4th wheel pivot was formerly broken but still long enough to sit in the 4th wheel bottom jewel hole. In addition, it looks that a small pipe or so was fitted from the bottom plate to the end of the 4th wheel pinion. And this is the reason that I cannot remove it. Could it have happened as I detailed above or it is a normal thing? Should I remove it anyway and change the whole 4th wheel or the pinion if I can manage to find a replacement. What can be done? what do you suggest? After this, I decided to carry on like that and at the end when I will measure the accuracy, it should show some really bad results in case if there is any affection. And now got to the second issue. So, at the end of the cleaning, I found a small pin in the bottom of the horosolv jar. I managed to find its place. However, I am not quite sure how to fit it again. To be honest, I cannot see its purpose really. From the bottom end, it is underneath the setting lever, and from the top plate also it sticks out hardly any. Have you got any idea how to solve these problems? Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures. Hope they help though. Please detail your answers as I am just a beginner. Any help is much appreciated. Gabe P.S.: Please ignore the notes on some of the images which are not related to my issues. Thanks.
  3. Thank you very much, guys. I actually assembled it back together on Friday night. Now everything works like a dream. Delgetti, you were right, the lever was upside down so it could not push the castle wheel all the way to the intermediate wheel. Soon I turned that, I could see that such a silly mistake I made and did not spot it for so long. Special thanks for you HSL for the great pictures and explanation. You must have some serious skills if you got it working after five beers. Sometimes I feel that my hands are not steady enough even without beer. All your information will be even more useful when I strip the whole movement again for cleaning and lubricating soon.
  4. Hi Gents, I have just bought a Tissot Seastar 1970 with a 2481 movement. After opening the back, it seems it is in fairly good condition. No rust or dust. It is ticking well and what I really like in this movement is that the date can be set by pushing in the crown. And this is where the problems start. After a couple of pushing, I could not be able to set it anymore. I was going to take apart anyway to clean and lubricate it. So, as soon as, I started dismantling the movement I saw that the problem caused by the return spring, not in place. I assembled it back again and the date moves smoothly, however, when I want to set up the time and pull the crown out the castle wheel does not reach the intermediate wheel even if the return bar and spring seem to be at their right place. The check spring is not bent. When the crown is pushed in, I can wind up the watch. Maybe the return spring? I have no clue. Have you got any idea how to solve this problem? Sorry for the poor quality of the picture. Hope it helps though. Please detail your answers as I am just a beginner. Any help is much appreciated. Gabe
  5. Hello Gents, My name is Gabe and writing from Worthing, UK. I work in engineering and a few years ago I got interested in how mechanical watches work. I started watching Mark's videos and reading watch repairing books. Then bit by bit I bought the essential tools for small services. At the moment I practice working on vintage watches as a hobby. I like to read the experts' threads here and I might ask some help in the future. Many thanks for running this forum. Gabe,
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